Echo CS-360T

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I would certainly agree..steve..!!

There's a BIG difference between a 192T and a 200T..

And just as with the Echos..a simple MM will add more power than most would think..!!

Thanks for asking..!!..:)
:cheers:
J2F

I think the 200t comes with a opened up muff a will not have much gain, the 192 t should gain some but it's a 30cc open port motor. Steve
 
Removing the cat and opening up the "can" and the exit hole for the CS-360T increases noise level some. I left the deflector in place on mine, and the "can" inside the muffler that held the catalyst material, hoping the mods would increase airflow and still diffuse the noise level some. It's noticable louder than before the mods, but not obxiously loud. At first I left the exit hole stock, then gently opened it up a tad a couple of times to see if it helped some, which it did. I still was very conservative with that deal. I'm not big into making a bunch of noise with any of my saws. They are work saws, most are stone stock, aside from the later model ones that used restrictive mufflers or CAT's to start with.

I still remember the day on the farm back in the late 1970's when my brother showed up with HUGE Mac he bought new. Pretty sure it was a PM800 or 850. In any case, it was a big yellow BEAST, heavy, no anti-vibe, and the loudest saw I've ever ran. My ears are still ringinng over 30 years later!

Cutting firewood and clearing trees is something that I thoroughly enjoy these days. To keep it an enjoyable experience I dump all the poor running or "junk" saws that I aquire, and certainly don't want any of them so loud you cringe when you have to use them!......Cliff
 
Interesting thread regarding top handled saws and muffler mods. I've owned and used 338xp's and several models of echos, 3400, 341, 330t and 360t. I've also used the stihls from the old all metal models (their most powerful) to the 200t's. Of all these saws, the echo cs330's and 360's are my favorites. I've been using the pair i have now for over 5 years and i've never had a problem. The powerful husky's have a front mounted carb which moves the handle back two inches and wrecks the balance. They are more hazardous because when you saw thru a limb, one handed, the weight of the bar makes it impossible to release the throttle. They also tire the wrist because of the awkward balance. My experience with the stihls has been a lack of longevity. I've had problems with the mufflers coming loose, but what do you expect for $600?

on a job i usually have one top handle for climbing and another by the chipper and often one for limbing on the ground. For all these applications, especially the climbing saw, the most important things are sure starting on the first pull and a sharp chain. If i have limbs larger than eight inches, send up the 272.

anyway, last week i decided to try the muffler mod on the cs 330t. I removed the catalyst honeycomb from the can and opened the outlet port with a 9/32 drill, but didn't open the muffler body since i have no mig welder. I put it back together and tried to get the mixtures, lo and hi, adjusted correctly. The users manual says to adjust the mixtures so that the saw will run between 13,500 and 14,500 rpm. I could get mine up to about 12,500 rpm, but it ran poorly between 8000 and 10,000 rpm, no matter what i did. It seems to me that particular rpm range is the most important since it is the band used when cutting. I took the muffler apart again and realized that i had neglected the plate and gasket beneath the spark arrestor screen. I drilled another 9/32” hole thru those and used a file to smooth them into the existing aperture. after that i was able to get the saw running well from 8000 to 11,500 rpm, cut some cookies off of 6” balsam poplar, fast and easy. These results may be different from others since i live at 6000 feet altitude and 2strokes work differently up here.

Was it worth the trouble? Hard to say. The saw cut well before. It may take some time at the show to tell for sure. A sharp chain seems to be more significant. i didn't notice any change in sound level.
 
cs 360T power issues

I bought the 360 t cause there is no replacement for displacement shure the rule of thumb is the bigger the bore/stroke the less rpm you will get. All people say punch out exhaust well it does help in different operating ranges, but I found most the issue is the cat. Not so much in how big the exhaust outlet is. What I came across might mess with your head, yeah the head on your shoulders lol. The intake end of you saw is the big issue the air filter box has a very narrow passage between the two halves. The outer shell furthest from carb has a air diverter ridge about 3/32 tall that can be cut out with a dremel or hobby knife to reduce restriction on the half that meets up to carb adapter has a thick section of plastic that is raised up about a strong 1/16 inch that can be removed and your filter box is instanly less restrictive allowing more air to get to your carb . The black adaptor that holds the filter to the carb is a issue with your top end power too. Smooth out the inner bore so it does not have its ventricle shape like the inner bore of a carb would have. By doing that will prevent your engine from pulsing near your top end rpm range I have done this to my saw and its not even 2 tanks old it has really came to life from doing that and I'm still running rich on fuel and oil for break inn reasons. Ill post pics after I figure out this forum site
 
I bought the 360 t cause there is no replacement for displacement shure the rule of thumb is the bigger the bore/stroke the less rpm you will get. All people say punch out exhaust well it does help in different operating ranges, but I found most the issue is the cat. Not so much in how big the exhaust outlet is. What I came across might mess with your head, yeah the head on your shoulders lol. The intake end of you saw is the big issue the air filter box has a very narrow passage between the two halves. The outer shell furthest from carb has a air diverter ridge about 3/32 tall that can be cut out with a dremel or hobby knife to reduce restriction on the half that meets up to carb adapter has a thick section of plastic that is raised up about a strong 1/16 inch that can be removed and your filter box is instanly less restrictive allowing more air to get to your carb . The black adaptor that holds the filter to the carb is a issue with your top end power too. Smooth out the inner bore so it does not have its ventricle shape like the inner bore of a carb would have. By doing that will prevent your engine from pulsing near your top end rpm range I have done this to my saw and its not even 2 tanks old it has really came to life from doing that and I'm still running rich on fuel and oil for break inn reasons. Ill post pics after I figure out this forum site

Good work, these are good saws out of the box but have ample potential for mods. I'll look at my intake side and see what can be done. I've been using echo top handle saws for many years, 3400's to 360's. You can't break them unless you run over them with the chipper or truck.
 
echo cs 360t intake

i have made a couple minor changes to the intake end of my saw and it has worked for the better. :msp_thumbup: I have boared out the airfilter adaptor to a smooth bore and to close match the casting bore of the carb resulting in smoother more direct air flow to feed the carb. this made a big difference in how this ran in the upper operating rpm range under load. the air box im not fond of being it has a narrow air passage that i was able to open up a little bit by removing the material that is highlighted in blue. my saw exhaust is is not drilled out, it has had the cat removed and spacer plate cut to match the exhaust diverter
 
i have made a couple minor changes to the intake end of my saw and it has worked for the better. :msp_thumbup: I have boared out the airfilter adaptor to a smooth bore and to close match the casting bore of the carb resulting in smoother more direct air flow to feed the carb. this made a big difference in how this ran in the upper operating rpm range under load. the air box im not fond of being it has a narrow air passage that i was able to open up a little bit by removing the material that is highlighted in blue. my saw exhaust is is not drilled out, it has had the cat removed and spacer plate cut to match the exhaust diverter


Just to let you know, I think that the material you ground down inside the (white) air filter is there to encourage the air to 'come' from all around the filter span so it won't suck most of the air from just around the hole, get me? I checked flow of the filter as is, and I don't know if it needs any mod.. MHO.

I have did a Cat mod + Carb limiters removal.. fair enough. It accels pretty quick, and revs as high as my other 020T/200T's.. I sti(H)l prefer the throttle response of the STIHLs, but I love the 360T's quieter nature for certain works.



BTW - I'd make a custom chainsaw of an ECHO SRM-4000 if I could.. the quietest engine ever!!


Jo.
 
Can you run a regular size 3/8" .050 chain on a 360t or does it have to be a low profile chain?
 
Not sure, but the 3/8" LP is a very good set-up for these smaller saws, IMHO.

I can get an Oregon two pack of them just about anyplace for under $25, and they are very fast cutting chains and stay sharp in dirty material. Do NOT get the chains with the safety feature, they don't cut as well and it's not needed.

I'm still running my CS-360T, and it hasn't developed a "death rattle" yet, for those that are taking notes.

I am getting close to retirement and will be moving to a warmer climate, so in the near future will be down-sizing and selling off most of my collection. I'll run them in the Trading Post before any attempts to Ebay them........Cliff
 
Not sure, but the 3/8" LP is a very good set-up for these smaller saws, IMHO.

I can get an Oregon two pack of them just about anyplace for under $25, and they are very fast cutting chains and stay sharp in dirty material. Do NOT get the chains with the safety feature, they don't cut as well and it's not needed.

I'm still running my CS-360T, and it hasn't developed a "death rattle" yet, for those that are taking notes.

I am getting close to retirement and will be moving to a warmer climate, so in the near future will be down-sizing and selling off most of my collection. I'll run them in the Trading Post before any attempts to Ebay them........Cliff
Thats what i been using on my saw cheep and they work thats rhe ssme chain in the vid too
 
Not sure, but the 3/8" LP is a very good set-up for these smaller saws, IMHO.

I can get an Oregon two pack of them just about anyplace for under $25, and they are very fast cutting chains and stay sharp in dirty material. Do NOT get the chains with the safety feature, they don't cut as well and it's not needed.

I'm still running my CS-360T, and it hasn't developed a "death rattle" yet, for those that are taking notes.

I am getting close to retirement and will be moving to a warmer climate, so in the near future will be down-sizing and selling off most of my collection. I'll run them in the Trading Post before any attempts to Ebay them........Cliff
Cant blame you one bit for moving to a warmer climate. What you asking for the echo360t without the rattle of death
 
Not sure, but the 3/8" LP is a very good set-up for these smaller saws, IMHO.

I can get an Oregon two pack of them just about anyplace for under $25, and they are very fast cutting chains and stay sharp in dirty material. Do NOT get the chains with the safety feature, they don't cut as well and it's not needed.

I'm still running my CS-360T, and it hasn't developed a "death rattle" yet, for those that are taking notes.

I am getting close to retirement and will be moving to a warmer climate, so in the near future will be down-sizing and selling off most of my collection. I'll run them in the Trading Post before any attempts to Ebay them........Cliff
Yeah a while back it was you posting about the echo 360 thinking it was a turd and gunna blow up soon?
 
Just wondering as I think I ran a regular chain the other day on mine and wanted to make sure I didn't mess anything up! Sprocket, bar tip, etc
 
Just wondering as I think I ran a regular chain the other day on mine and wanted to make sure I didn't mess anything up! Sprocket, bar tip, etc
I have not tried a more aggressive larger chain on mine id like to get a pico stihl chain one day cause the full chisle low pro does cut very nice. But yeah the dirty wood is better off with a semi chiz chain.
 
Regular 3/8 won't work...the sprocket in the bars are different. The rim and sprockets are also different but they will work but the bar sprocket will not.
 
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