Echo CS330t--rebuild or not?

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I don't see how that is possible. The throttle and choke rod aren't anywhere close to the boot. The rods come into the carb box from the top and the boot is an inch and a half below.....and on the other side of the carb box.
agreed, but some people are more talented than others. again i have never seen this myself, just read about it somewhere, maybe on this forum, so it must be true! keep us posted. i'm sure you'll find the root cause. have you taken the boot out and inspected it? maybe its a new manifestation of ethanol.
 
I don't see how that is possible. The throttle and choke rod aren't anywhere close to the boot. The rods come into the carb box from the top and the boot is an inch and a half below.....and on the other side of the carb box.
Was your saw purchased new? Used? I know some people out there do not pay attention to details. Maybe even a tech in the past may have done some work on the saw and didn't tighten the screws properly and the boot shook around or bent the steel plate that is molded into the boot or could even be a defect right out of the factory. Well that being said maybe order a new boot or goober it up and try it.
 
Used....lol. You could say that. I picked it up(running) from a scrapyard for $5 or so. I haven't taken the boot off yet. I'll wait till I have a new one in hand.
 
Used....lol. You could say that. I picked it up(running) from a scrapyard for $5 or so. I haven't taken the boot off yet. I'll wait till I have a new one in hand.
Take note of heydukes idea of using a string/small rope to pull the boot through the plastic carb/air filter housing. It's in this thread--back a ways. I struggled a little to get the boot through the hole on my 330 rebuild!
 
Take note of heydukes idea of using a string/small rope to pull the boot through the plastic carb/air filter housing. It's in this thread--back a ways. I struggled a little to get the boot through the hole on my 330 rebuild!

learned that trick working on stihls. they are a pain in the butt from 020ts to 066's and if you try to stuff one thru with a tool, you can puncture or rip the rubber. the string makes it easy. if you want to go crazy you can use a micro blakes hitch. another trick is crisco, ky for intake boots. the veggie oil won't damage the plastic.
 
I hate stuffing boots back through, and that is definitely a "why didn't I think of that" suggestion. Thanks!

Looked through the IPL's earlier and Echo used(still does, apparently) two different intake boots on the 330t. One is almost $30 and the other is just under $14. Since my saw is missing the serial number sticker I have no idea which one I need. :dumb2: All of the carb numbers on the IPL's are the same, so no help narrowing it down. I'm going to try to run it by the local dealer to see if he can ID it. Otherwise, I can only hope that the other 330t out in the shop still has the sticker on it, and that it's troubles are also the intake boot.
 
Well my 330 got to saw wood today! At this point I'm absolutely paranoid about the carb setting being lean!! But the saw was cutting great--cutting 8" Texas mesquite, dry dry, but frozen if it still has enough moisture to freeze. At first, it seemed to want to stop turning the chain, finally have it where it's a good steady pull through the cut with the 14" bar. Good running little saw, fired 1st pull, started 2nd--after 2 days of setting in cold building!

Off to Texas for 10 days!
 

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Probably shld have also said that my 70 plus year old ears just don't hear like they shld anymore!! I can hear it 4-stoke, but not sure about hitting limiter!! I have a little cheap tach ordered--more out of curiosity than anything else. Will compare saws idle and max rpms.
 
Did a little more digging on the intake boot thing. Apparently there is only one boot in use now. The $30 one I mentioned previously is actually a new boot, plus a new top handle.
 
Did a little more digging on the intake boot thing. Apparently there is only one boot in use now. The $30 one I mentioned previously is actually a new boot, plus a new top handle.

that's what i expected. the new intake boot is probably to correct design defects in version 1. however, please clarify regarding the top handle. is the new top handle required if you retrofit the new intake boot? i'm thinking that it's just an upgrade to the same as the 355t, so they don't have to manufacture both. the 355t has a different shape with appendages that help it fit different sized hands.
 
It comes with a replacement handle...which looks identical to the existing one. I guess something is different on the carb end of the boot. There isn't an option to buy just the boot for the first gen gray saw I have(not the orange one I was working on), nor is there in several of the newer versions IPL's. About half the IPL's list just the boot. I would guess that depending on which version you have, replacing the boot might also require replacing the handle. I've got it ordered.
 
Probably shld have also said that my 70 plus year old ears just don't hear like they shld anymore!! I can hear it 4-stoke, but not sure about hitting limiter!! I have a little cheap tach ordered--more out of curiosity than anything else. Will compare saws idle and max rpms.

good to hear that you're up and running. i tend to keep the 330/360 running rich until i'm satisfied that it has broken in. after that, keep the L rich, like four or more turns, and lean the bejabbers out of th H side until you get high revs and good power in the wood. a good tach is handy. it will tell you where the rpm limiter is set. after that you have to lean out the high until you get the best power.

first prize is a trip to texas. second prize is two trips to texas.
 
It comes with a replacement handle...which looks identical to the existing one. I guess something is different on the carb end of the boot. There isn't an option to buy just the boot for the first gen gray saw I have(not the orange one I was working on), nor is there in several of the newer versions IPL's. About half the IPL's list just the boot. I would guess that depending on which version you have, replacing the boot might also require replacing the handle. I've got it ordered.


thanks for the info. i've got two grays and one orange. haven't had any trouble with either. keep us posted. i'm wondering if the early specimens had a problem.
 
Glad to hear it is running. They do take a Lil while to break inn or free up. But if ur bord one day and have some 6 to 10 inch log then just cut some cookies and burn some fuel. Youl love the saw when it frees up. And be prepared to clean you air filter often. They clog up fast if air box is stock
 
thanks for the info. i've got two grays and one orange. haven't had any trouble with either. keep us posted. i'm wondering if the early specimens had a problem.
Only prob I have heard of was intake boots. And of course the typical too lean out the box but you have that covered
 
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