Echo CS600P LA screw baseline

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ElectroTech

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Hi guys,
First post have been lurking around for a while.
Have a pretty much new Echo CS600P that didn't get a very good setup from the dealer. Can tune the saw to run well but I'm pretty sure they bunkered the LA baseline as it's a bit finicky to get started. Noticed they had the LA almost all the way bottomed, so likely nowhere near enough vacuum to get fuel moving when cold, always using the choke, even if it just sits for a couple minutes. Just wondering if someone could give me the number of turns out on the LA.
Thanks,
Steve
 
Despite any posted literature or recommendations for tuning, always fine tune your saw for the fuel you are using, altitude, weather conditions, etc. I would fine tune both the "L" and "H" screws starting with the "L" screw. Turn it in for fastest RPMS then back it out until the engine slows ever so slightly.

Turn the "H" speed screw out until the rpms fall off and it "blubbers" a bit, then start bringing it in and making cuts until you find the best power and still "four stroking" out of the cut. Do all of this fully warmed up, and don't be afraid to go back to the "L" speed screw for best throttle response if it acts a little sluggish hitting the throttle quickly.

They made several different versions of the CS-600P's and not all of them use the same P/C, coil, carburetor, etc. I have an early version, and it has an unlimited coil on it, or at least the rev limiter is high enough you never get into it.

Pretty sure my carb is around 3/4" out from seated with the "H" speed screw. I've tuned others than were much closer to seated when correctly tuned and they were fine.

When I tune saws I tend to stay just a tad on the rich side of things. Not so much that they are loosing any power, but more fuel is always better than less in the big scheme of things. I ALWAYS tune so the "H" speed screw is my rev limiter out of the cut, but instantly "cleans up" when you place a load back on it........Cliff
 
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