echo cs600p

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jcass

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I started this post to get it out of my ( what to by ) thread..

OK i just got done unloading from todays take..I used the echo cs600p today and I was amazed at just how light and fast and powerful this saw is . I mean it cut that red oak like nothing .The guy I was working with today has a 455 rancher with brand new this morning bar and chain and I was making 7-8 cuts to his one. I would start my cuts by reaching over the top of the log a bit and once she was good and dug in about halfway with the saw almost straight vertical I would pull it up and let her eat right down i wasn't leaning on it all , I could not believe the amount of time it saved me..I will finish up tomorrow and I cant wait . I got pretty bad back and a touch of RA in my elbows and wrist and they been aching sense I started this job a week ago tomorrow. Ive got about week or more of steady splitting in front of me now. I am really looking forward to Tuesday when I pick up the makita dcs5421. I did have the thrown chain while doing a side cut with the cs600p. I don't know how much the bar chain combo has anything to do with it. The guy i got the saw from said it did not come with a bar just the chain so he went out and bought a bar I looked on the saw and the # on the bar does not match the recommended 20" bar there doesn't appear to be any slop in the combo but I was curious because I've never thrown a chain before.

Ill will be back at it again this morning once my arms stop hurting some..
 
do a MM on it and pull the limiters and it will scream even more

This thing flys just the way it is but I am curious about the muffler mod and I assume when I here people say limiter they are talking rev limiter? I am not sure how to go about these mods so I'll read the manual and see what I can learn. If anyone would like to tell me that would be appreciated.
 
This thing flys just the way it is but I am curious about the muffler mod and I assume when I here people say limiter they are talking rev limiter? I am not sure how to go about these mods so I'll read the manual and see what I can learn. If anyone would like to tell me that would be appreciated.

You won't find that info in the manual. BY limiters, they are referring to the plastic caps on the Lo and Hi carb needles. Manuf. put them there for EPA purposes
 
the 1 i had i took the muffler off and welded a 3/4" id pipe to it,, then pulled the limiter caps off the high and low mixture screws and trimmed off the tabs,, you have to richen it up, doing this i woke the saw up even more
 
I just bought a J-Red 2152 and now I'm questioning my purchase. The more I keep hearing about this saw, the more I want one. They are near or less in dollars from what I just paid for a smaller saw.
 
I just bought a J-Red 2152 and now I'm questioning my purchase. The more I keep hearing about this saw, the more I want one. They are near or less in dollars from what I just paid for a smaller saw.

the 2152 is a very nice saw, the 600p's are awsome at only 60cc, i came very close to buying a 2153 then changed my mind and got the 600p insted, i'm very happy with it
 
I like my Echo saws but if a 600p is making 7 to 8 cuts to 1 against a 455 Rancher there is something wrong with the Rancher, muff screen or tuned real bad. Steve

I thought the saw sounded like it was running poorly, I have never seen a rancher before . I do know the saw is brand new purchased from tractor supply in the last couple weeks. I asked him if he had checked his filter and plug he said yes , I thought the saw sounded real weak and was going up and down in the revs, when I asked he said he was doing it. He had me to sharpen and adjust his chains so I dont think he had much time on a saw of any kind. The echo was singing like adele and running circles around the rancher.
 
If you like the way the saw runs now, send it to Brad and have him port it. He made my 600p into a kick-ass cutting machine. I couldn't be more happy with the results.
 
You won't find that info in the manual. BY limiters, they are referring to the plastic caps on the Lo and Hi carb needles. Manuf. put them there for EPA purposes

I know you wont find how to do modifications in a manual , I meant learn what the limiter tabs were and so on. Once I know more about the saw I can pick up on what people are talking about and go (oh yea) I know what that is. Ive worked on my sons dirt bikes for years now and there is allot of similarity's. In fact I bet if I got the right spacers for the transmission shaft to support a drive sprocket for a chain on the ktm 50s he use to run i could make a wicked crazy saw. Those little 50cc motors put out around 12-14hp.
 
I thought the saw sounded like it was running poorly, I have never seen a rancher before . I do know the saw is brand new purchased from tractor supply in the last couple weeks. I asked him if he had checked his filter and plug he said yes , I thought the saw sounded real weak and was going up and down in the revs, when I asked he said he was doing it. He had me to sharpen and adjust his chains so I dont think he had much time on a saw of any kind. The echo was singing like adele and running circles around the rancher.

Your friend needs to take his saw to a dealer for an initial tune. It should cut acceptably then, and after ten tanks or so, take it back for a retune.

Your new saw is similar, they ship kinda lean stock. They are good saws though. Start as easy as a saw gets, will cut well, etc. Most any new saw really needs a professional tune, then further retuning as it gets broken in and as you use it. (not counting for the new computer controlled models)

Normally I recommend guys hand split their own wood, but if you are having elbow problems, pop for a splitter, even just one of the little electric ones. No sense killing an important joint in your body for a few hundred dollars, which is all those little electric ones cost.
 
A 600P is ok in stock form, but certainly not a screamer. Once modded, they really run though. There's something significantly wrong with your buddies 455.

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I just got home from todays take , i haven't unloaded yet , let the dogs out and packed the wood stove and taken a breather for a few. I asked him today again about his saw and he said hes changed the plug and air filter still preformed slowly next to the echo very much so . I did noodle almost all the wood today otherwise impossible to move . where does the term noodle come from? from the wood shavings looking like noodles? I always call it pieing. I have a couple wood splitters one with a hydraulic arm to lift the rounds. I will be splitting all day tomorrow I enjoy it ..
 
I just got home from todays take , i haven't unloaded yet , let the dogs out and packed the wood stove and taken a breather for a few. I asked him today again about his saw and he said hes changed the plug and air filter still preformed slowly next to the echo very much so . I did noodle almost all the wood today otherwise impossible to move . where does the term noodle come from? from the wood shavings looking like noodles? I always call it pieing. I have a couple wood splitters one with a hydraulic arm to lift the rounds. I will be splitting all day tomorrow I enjoy it ..

Ya, I never heard the term either before I came here. I always called that "chunking it up". Yes, "noodles" from what they look like.

Have fun splitting!

edit: that Rancher. New saws especially the box store saws ship with a tune/adjustment that is designed to pass EPA arbitrary emissions standards. They put the limiter caps on there to supposedly stop them being run in a too rich manner. Those caps are to slow down guys from mucking about with the screws. It is emissions "theater".

It is a wink wink nudge nod deal. They "pass emissions", but really....think about it, ONE generic stock factory adjustment is supposed to work for below zero to over 100F, from desert zilch humidity to tropical air soup, from sea level to up in the rockies....uh huh, that'll work... it's magic carb!!! I don't think so...

Tell your buddy to stop killing his saw, pay the half hour minimum or whatever a dealer will charge for a real carb adjustment. It'll make him a world of difference.

THE most important single thing I have learned on this site is that, carb limiters are POLITICAL, they aren't engineering. There is no one size fits not much of anything standard carb setting, yet they-the saw companies- are forced to play make believe that there is in order to sell saws, to get permission.

Now, I am not a fan of air pollution or standing there cutting like in the olden days with max leaded gas and 30 weight car oil for mix oil, but they have gone to the opposite extreme. How many dead saws out there that needed to be replaced from rank stock settings and then being run with crap ethanol gas? How much pollution does that cause?

They threw the baby out with the bathwater.

Tell him to go get a pro tune, and you might want to think on that for your own saw as well. Even though it is running good now...I have one just like yours, by the tenth tank, toast. That's when I learned about carb limiters.
 
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Ya, I never heard the term either before I came here. I always called that "chunking it up". Yes, "noodles" from what they look like.

Have fun splitting!

edit: that Rancher. New saws especially the box store saws ship with a tune/adjustment that is designed to pass EPA arbitrary emissions standards. They put the limiter caps on there to supposedly stop them being run in a too rich manner. Those caps are to slow down guys from mucking about with the screws. It is emissions "theater".

It is a wink wink nudge nod deal. They "pass emissions", but really....think about it, ONE generic stock factory adjustment is supposed to work for below zero to over 100F, from desert zilch humidity to tropical air soup, from sea level to up in the rockies....uh huh, that'll work... it's magic carb!!! I don't think so...

Tell your buddy to stop killing his saw, pay the half hour minimum or whatever a dealer will charge for a real carb adjustment. It'll make him a world of difference.

THE most important single thing I have learned on this site is that, carb limiters are POLITICAL, they aren't engineering. There is no one size fits not much of anything standard carb setting, yet they-the saw companies- are forced to play make believe that there is in order to sell saws, to get permission.

Now, I am not a fan of air pollution or standing there cutting like in the olden days with max leaded gas and 30 weight car oil for mix oil, but they have gone to the opposite extreme. How many dead saws out there that needed to be replaced from rank stock settings and then being run with crap ethanol gas? How much pollution does that cause?

They threw the baby out with the bathwater.

Tell him to go get a pro tune, and you might want to think on that for your own saw as well. Even though it is running good now...I have one just like yours, by the tenth tank, toast. That's when I learned about carb limiters.

Thank you. I will check my plug again tomorrow when I clean my saws to see if its running lean , I checked it when I got it a couple days ago and it seemed ok , I ran my mix at 40:1 to richen it up some in hopes to prevent it from running to lean until I figure out how to adjust the carb. I need to read the manual .
 
All of the 600p's I have set up new have needed at least 1/8 to 1/4 turn on the high speed needle to get them right. When I see one back in the shop for service I rarely have to touch the screws again. I read the plug and for the most part they are right on. I cut with a distributo demo for a few months before we could get them in the store and was very impressed, it would run with my 036 and my 577 cutting everything from river birch to shagbark hickory. My only complaint was the plastic top handle, but thats been fixed on the second generation version, as well as a factory claimed 10% increase in midrange power. Cant wait to try one of those.
As for the 455 rancher, all those plastic bottom end saws are just an air leak waiting to happen. I stopped selling the Jonsered versions 5 yrs ago, too many issues with warped sealing surfaces.
 
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