Economical Splitter?

[die4toys]

Hi. I recently was given 10 trees worth of wood that was removed from a friends property. I have the saws I need, but am considering buying a splitter. There are 5 more trees that are coming and I hate spending alot of money on renting a splitter when that money could go towards buying a new toy. (always finding an excuse to get another toy!) I have a 28 x 32 cinderblock workshop that I heat with a woodburning stove and have two fireplaces in my house. I recently purchased this home on 5 acres so I have plenty of room to store the wood. I rented a Troy Built 27Ton splitter last weekend, but after using it all day, I noticed that they probably never lubricated the main beam where the wedge assy rides and it was very galled and one of the blocks in the adjustable gibb assy actually fell out because it was really worn. I have been eyeing the TSC Husky 22 Ton model which sells for $999 and has a Briggs 190cc engine. I would like a model that has the capability of splitting vertical, since some of this wood is from a red oak that was a bit over 36" in diameter and I don't want to have to lift them onto a horizontal splitter! My main concern is that the wedge on the Husky "floats" with the cylinder and rides in an open channel on both sides and I am wondering if debris will cause that channel to wear with extended use. I looks really beefy as far as the beam goes, but lacking experience with splitters, I could really use some advice.

Thanks!
Doug

Also, went through 2 Husq 445's and had really bad experience with them. Both of them would load the bar up with wood pulp that got wedged in the sprocket tip... Could only cut 5 or 6 16" logs before the chain would start to bind. Asked the Husqvarna repair guys about it and they never heard of it.... Two saws from the same store. A production problem? I opted to the the 455 and it is hands down a totally different saw. I was kicking myself for not getting another Stihl, (my 041 Farm Boss is almost 30 years old, and still running like a champ!), but after getting the 455, my worries, so far are calmed...
Anyone heard of that type of problem? I had to remove the bar/chain and run the sprocket backwards to get the pulp out and then clear the chain groove with my pocket knife, lube the sprocket on the bar and put back together. The chain was not loose, nor too tight. If I gently pulled on the chain in the middle of the bar, I could see a couple drive teeth. (this is what I was told was correct, and usually what I did on the Stihl, so if I am mistaken, please advise!

Appreciate the help and love the posts here. Especially the videos of removal in tight quarters. You guys are amazing. I will stick to cutting firewood and leave the felling to you! (The climber that removed the trees I have was awsome, I never realized how much calculation goes into making sure you don't hit the nearby buildings/structures near some of these huge trees! I am totally in awe!)

Doug

 

[roostersgt]

I have the Troybilt 27 ton splitter w/ Honda motor, which I bought from Lowes for $1200. It works great. As you noticed, make sure the bar gets oiled before use. I lube mine with used motor oil and everything is holding up very well after splitting about 5 cords of mostly large dried oak. The Honda engine fires on first pull everytime and has been problem free. I use premium gas in it.

For a chainsaw I have a Stihl MS290. It works extremely well with the yellow chain, regardless of what some of the "spec" sheet folks here say. It isn't that heavy for an average fit man.

 

[sgreanbeans]

I have had a speedco, 25 ton for 10 years or so, great little thing, just this year I had to replace the ignition coil, but other than that, it has been great, i think we paid around 1500 for it, but not sure.

 

[PeteW]

The cheapest way to buy a splitter is to get one that hooks up to your diesel tractor. I don't know if you have one or not, but that is how I did it. I have a TC33 New Holland tractor and got a 20 ton splitter for the back of it. I use the hydraulics up front for the loader since I do not have a hydraulic pump in the back. Doing it this way I bought the splitter for $299 on the auction site, then I needed another $110 for extensions on the hydraulic line to hook up to the front loader.

The splitter will be a life saver. I heat my house in the winter with wood and it really saves time and my back. Not to mention the stitches I gave myself once when my engineer hammer decided to splinter and smack me in the hand. Good luck with your decision.

 

[wampum]

Try renting,10 trees is not that much and if you have them already bucked,you and a friend should be able to do the job in a day or less.(depending on the trees size)
Renting also allows you to see how good a splitter is. Another option is a good splitting mall. If you plan on splitting several cords a year,a good splitter would be nice. But to spend $1500(give or take a couple hundred)for a new splitter that may not be used much,may not be sound economics.

I am going to move this to Firewood so you will get a few more ideas,hopefully.

 

[Rudedog]

I have been eyeing the TSC Husky 22 Ton model which sells for $999 and has a Briggs 190cc engine. My main concern is that the wedge on the Husky "floats" with the cylinder and rides in an open channel on both sides and I am wondering if debris will cause that channel to wear with extended use. I looks really beefy as far as the beam goes, but lacking experience with splitters, I could really use some advice.

I have the 22 ton Huskee. Debris does not cause the channel to wear. That is the splitter I would get if I did not have a tractor. Can't beat it for the price. If I had a tractor I would get a splitter that hooks up to the rear of the tractor as PeteW suggested.

 

[tex]

I agree with Wampum. My first thought when I started reading this was that 10 trees isn't much to justify buying a splitter. Not for me anyway. If you think you want to go the splitter route anyway, maybe check CL for a used one. Maybe even home-made. There are some good deals on home made ones if you are willing and able to "re-engineer" it the way you want. Thats what I did.