Electric Saws

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Zinger

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Just a couple of comments:

1. Why do people think these things are safer than gas powered saws? Are they seeing something that I'm not?

2. I was using a new homelite electric saw and noticed it had no chain brake. I though chain brakes were required on saws these days. Guess I was wrong.
 
I hate them because I can never get the carb set on them. I can never get that blurbering 4 stroke sound that I look for. .:monkey: :):)
Seriously, I do use one sometime when I attempt to do a chainsaw carving. I have an old all metal industrial one that I can't even tell what brand it is.
 
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They are not safer. They have no chain brake and no clutch. So it is basically on and off. Most chaps are not rated for electric saws as they are harder to stall out because of the lack of a clutch, for them to stop you need to release the trigger or try to stall the motor out.

Now through all that i love my electric saw when you get that one log that is too long to get into the stove in the basement.
 
OK - I'll bite. I'll stand up for the electric saws (even though on this site, it probably means people will ask for their 'rep' back).

First the safety thing. You are right. You can still get cut with them - they run the same chain as the smaller gas powered saws. In fact, if you read the labels on your safety chaps (2 more assumptions in a testosterone filled forum) you will see that there is a special warning regarding electric saws. Because they are designed to run at a 'constant torque' they do not stall out as quickly when tangled with the fibers, like the gas saws do.

That said, they are generally lighter and quieter than gas saws. They do not use flammable liquid or require repetitive jerking on the starter cord to get them going. Squeezing the trigger does not cause a torque/moment on the handle. They do not emit clouds of smoke or get as hot. They generally transmit less vibration to the user. More similar in some ways to using a Skilsaw than gas chainsaw.

Safer? One could argue that these factors make them easier to control and less fatiguing to use. Less prone to cause hearing loss, white finger, or burns. Other than that, they are probably as safe or unsafe as a gas saw of a similar size and power output.

I have 3 electric saws - partially due to specialized uses, and partially due to E-CAD. When I am trimming trees or bushes in the neighborhood, I am never more than 100 feet from a 120V outlet and that makes them pretty convenient. No, I have never cut the power cord. And my Makita UC4000 has a chain brake.

No, I can't take them in the woods, and no, I can't cut things that you need a 660 for. But they always start, and they don't need to be 'winterized'. And if you look back at the first Stihls and other saws of that era - they were electric.

Just like gas saws, there are big differences between $30 Big-Box store electric saws, and the Stihl/Husqvarna/Jonsered/Makita/Dolmar/Milwaukee ones.

Philbert
 
OK - I'll bite. I'll stand up for the electric saws (even though on this site, it probably means people will ask for their 'rep' back).

First the safety thing. You are right. You can still get cut with them - they run the same chain as the smaller gas powered saws. In fact, if you read the labels on your safety chaps (2 more assumptions in a testosterone filled forum) you will see that there is a special warning regarding electric saws. Because they are designed to run at a 'constant torque' they do not stall out as quickly when tangled with the fibers, like the gas saws do.

That said, they are generally lighter and quieter than gas saws. They do not use flammable liquid or require repetitive jerking on the starter cord to get them going. Squeezing the trigger does not cause a torque/moment on the handle. They do not emit clouds of smoke or get as hot. They generally transmit less vibration to the user. More similar in some ways to using a Skilsaw than gas chainsaw.

Safer? One could argue that these factors make them easier to control and less fatiguing to use. Less prone to cause hearing loss, white finger, or burns. Other than that, they are probably as safe or unsafe as a gas saw of a similar size and power output.

I have 3 electric saws - partially due to specialized uses, and partially due to E-CAD. When I am trimming trees or bushes in the neighborhood, I am never more than 100 feet from a 120V outlet and that makes them pretty convenient. No, I have never cut the power cord. And my Makita UC4000 has a chain brake.

No, I can't take them in the woods, and no, I can't cut things that you need a 660 for. But they always start, and they don't need to be 'winterized'. And if you look back at the first Stihls and other saws of that era - they were electric.

Just like gas saws, there are big differences between $30 Big-Box store electric saws, and the Stihl/Husqvarna/Jonsered/Makita/Dolmar/Milwaukee ones.

Philbert

Yup, pro/Industrial duty electric saws are usually equipped with both inertia chain brakes and motor brakes.
 
I had to use my FILs the other day when my BILs 028 konked out. It was a Remington 1.5 hp. I wont say Im making it my go to saw but Ill keep it in mind if Im up there cutting again. I did almost chew up extensioncord once though,guess you need to be careful with anything.:greenchainsaw:
 
This wasn't started to bash elec saws. :)

I use then regularly for that quick one or two cuts. They have their uses.
 
I have never understood the idea that an electric saw is safer - here in the UK I reckon fewer people own chainsaws, so the obvious solution is to hire. The hire shops in their wisdom have decided gas saws are scary and they won't hire them. You can, however, hire electric chainsaws. Remember we have 230 volt mains and plenty of rain...

As to brakes and clutches - sure, the better quality electric saws have chain brakes, as well as other safety features. Later models of E20 have a friction drive that uses 3 dished washers to allow the chain to slip if the chain grabs.

As ever, you get what you pay for.
 
They are not safer. Chaps are NOT rated for protection against electric saws.. very high torque.

My E20 will kck back far worse than my 660...
 
They are not safer. Chaps are NOT rated for protection against electric saws.. very high torque.

My E20 will kck back far worse than my 660...

+1

I use my 220 almost daily, but actually I feel it is deceptively dangerous. Long afterrun, instant almost unstoppable torque, relatively low chainspeed (kickback).

Last week I was practicing some endgrain boring with a couple of my saws and thought I'd give my 220 a try. Whoa! Even with a razor sharp square chain, the low chain speed makes end grain plunging very touchy. The more revs the better for than.

A different beast to run, but it has it's place.
 
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