Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Hey Ted. . . You need to read the FS studies done on deploying rope instead of cable. Ya might develop an opinion based on some facts instead of conjecture.
Falling pics 11/25/09
- Thread starter Burvol
- Start date
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ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here are some pictures of me falling some White Oaks
RATE ME! lol besides not wearing chaps or whatnot.:msp_lol:
RATE ME! lol besides not wearing chaps or whatnot.:msp_lol:
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
Is that a metal splitting wedge?
Gary
Gary
ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
Couple more
ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep had a couple of big white oaks that day and didnt wanna break my plastic ones so i just brought my metal ones, alittle more work but hey it works!
forestryworks
Addicted to ArboristSite
Put that splitting wedge in the firewood pile where it belongs and get you some K&H falling wedges.
Falling wedges are cheap in that if you hit them with your chain, big deal.
You hit that metal splitting wedge with your chain, instant downtime for re-sharpening or changing out a chain.
Also, from the looks of the indents that metal splitting wedge left, it looks like you are pounding that wedge tight into the backcut.
With a falling wedge, they have a whole lot less taper than the metal splitting wedge and won't spit out as easily. Simply take your plastic falling wedge and palm them into the back cut as you go. Hand snug is fine. As you progress your backcut, you can drive each wedge a little more.
Too many people start driving their wedges hard and way too early. Just makes unnecessary work.
Try your backcut without boring, see how that goes. Typically, you only need to bore and set up your hinge on a heavy head leaner. On a well balanced tree it's usually not necessary.
Try different hinge placements as well. Forward, middle, etc. The whole point of a face cut is to undermine the [well balanced] tree's center of gravity.
Other than that it looks good. Keep learning. Get your basics down until you can do it in your sleep!
Falling wedges are cheap in that if you hit them with your chain, big deal.
You hit that metal splitting wedge with your chain, instant downtime for re-sharpening or changing out a chain.
Also, from the looks of the indents that metal splitting wedge left, it looks like you are pounding that wedge tight into the backcut.
With a falling wedge, they have a whole lot less taper than the metal splitting wedge and won't spit out as easily. Simply take your plastic falling wedge and palm them into the back cut as you go. Hand snug is fine. As you progress your backcut, you can drive each wedge a little more.
Too many people start driving their wedges hard and way too early. Just makes unnecessary work.
Try your backcut without boring, see how that goes. Typically, you only need to bore and set up your hinge on a heavy head leaner. On a well balanced tree it's usually not necessary.
Try different hinge placements as well. Forward, middle, etc. The whole point of a face cut is to undermine the [well balanced] tree's center of gravity.
Other than that it looks good. Keep learning. Get your basics down until you can do it in your sleep!
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ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
As a matter of fact i have hit my chain on that wedge before! lol takes about 10-15 min to get it resharpened
The only reason i bore cut on that one tree is because my 046 the chain adjuster broke so i got my back up (J-red 2051 with a 16" bar) and the tree was to small so i double cut it. I am 16 and just starting to learn the trade with my father teaching me alot. But i have only been doing it for about 6 months
thanks i did learn new something from your post Forestryworks "Try different hinge placements as well. Forward, middle, etc. The whole point of a face cut is to undermine the [well balanced] tree's center of gravity." Thanks for that tidbit!
I can't imagin, so show me the studies, and Il read them.
But I think my hypothesis is correct.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Might not want to find out how fast a wot saw can come flying out of a cut if the cutters jam on that metal wedge, it could take a lot long than 15 miutes to touch up...
Remember to Look Up...
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Agreed with all on the plastic wedges. Lots of big suppliers sell good-quality "house brand" wedges for cheap; buy a case and don't look back. Your chains will thank you.
This website is ####ed up ya'll. Ive been fighting it for the last 30 minutes trying to post some pics.
They should have left it the way it damn was
They should have left it the way it damn was
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
Yep...
Plastic wedges being wider and with the narrower taper also give more lift. The metal splitting wedge does nothing more than bore itself into the cut without providing any lift at all. That's what their designed to do. You can tell by the pic in post #2124 of the big end of the spar that was posted. You can see the mark the splitting wedge left. A wide and tapered plastic wedge won't leave a mark like that. You can tell the splitting wedge wasn't providing any lift at all.
Keep cuttin', and askin' questions ChainsawmanXXX... practice, practice, practice...
Gary
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
Here ya go Ted...
Ted... If ya want I can put these in one of your posts...
Gary
Ted... If ya want I can put these in one of your posts...
Gary
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Like Gary and Jameson said, plastic wedges lift while the splitting wedge moves the wood.
I'll bet its a pita pounding it too. Get a plain old single bit as well. I'm sure that fiskers mall has some weight but those flares will do no good for plastic wedges. You want your pall flat and about as thick as a single wedge so when you have to double up you only smack one at a time.
Oh yeah, look up!
Don't get caught up in the "east-coast-bore-everything-crowd," either. Experience will teach you when.
I'll bet its a pita pounding it too. Get a plain old single bit as well. I'm sure that fiskers mall has some weight but those flares will do no good for plastic wedges. You want your pall flat and about as thick as a single wedge so when you have to double up you only smack one at a time.
Oh yeah, look up!
Don't get caught up in the "east-coast-bore-everything-crowd," either. Experience will teach you when.
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bitzer
******** Timber Expert
The three things I could see against Amsteel:
Longevity-I don't see fibers doing well with abraison and dynamic/shock loading over time.
Price- I use 1/2" cable at a $1/foot. Amsteel is something like 4 or $5/foot.
Rigidity- How often do you need a good stiff cable to poke under a log to set up a choke?
I've never tried it and I would like to, but I can't see it doing as well as cable.
Longevity-I don't see fibers doing well with abraison and dynamic/shock loading over time.
Price- I use 1/2" cable at a $1/foot. Amsteel is something like 4 or $5/foot.
Rigidity- How often do you need a good stiff cable to poke under a log to set up a choke?
I've never tried it and I would like to, but I can't see it doing as well as cable.
ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks for all the pointers guys!
On the topic of falling, hint hint hint...
Sorry. Sometimes the camera blurs when zooming, sometimes it doesn't. I have read the manual and the manual lacks detail. I think it has a lot to do with how much light there is.
Here is a two at once near the road video. Darn the brush!! This is a low elevation, ferny, mossy area. The skid trails are all located on high ground--little humps and ridges and such. Otherwise, they'd probably be shut down due to mud.
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/U4UBoL2qnEk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Sorry. Sometimes the camera blurs when zooming, sometimes it doesn't. I have read the manual and the manual lacks detail. I think it has a lot to do with how much light there is.
Here is a two at once near the road video. Darn the brush!! This is a low elevation, ferny, mossy area. The skid trails are all located on high ground--little humps and ridges and such. Otherwise, they'd probably be shut down due to mud.
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/U4UBoL2qnEk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
The reason your camera blurs when you are zooming is because it is re-auto-focusing. It has to readjust the focus and the lighting when you zoom in like that. just thought you'd like that lol.
Alright! Us old duffers can teach you about falling...you can teach us about all the electronic gadgets that drive us nuts.And...just to pile it on a little, everybody is dead right about the splitting wedge. It can rip the teeth right off of a chain...think shrapnel. Leave it at the wood pile. Metal falling wedges have their place but for what you're doing plastic is a better choice.
Cheap wedges are okay but if you're having to drive wedges hard I'd go with K&H. I've had good luck with them.
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