MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
OK I'll check her out tomorrow. Thanks for the info didn't see this one. Lol
FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread
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MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Man I'm really tired. Lol I didn't get what you meant. Lol. But I do now. I'm slow you guys can slam me for it. Lol
golddredgergold
ArboristSite Operative
Yes popped it off and took a look. Still looks like new. So very happy thus far. Going to get a solid 5 tanks through it before I try milling with it. I will pull the muffler again at about 5 tanks and get a good look. I will be putting the new milling pipe on at that point to. Will keep you all posted.
Thanks checking. I will mine and report in tomorrow. I want to be happy too. I already had trouble so I was skard of more trouble. It's to.evto let me be so I can relax
kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
I do have light scoring about 4-5 mils below the rings, photo of exhaust side. As I rolled it the skirt was bright and shiney. Will need to watch it. Sure runs good. It cranked up on the 4th pull. I was going to mill today and can not get my 070 started. Something is wrong with the decomp.it wants to break my arm. Guess I will just do yard work
kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Yea keep a close eye on it I'm going to be thumbing through the web today and see what I can find on prices for piston and cylinder wish me luck. LolI do have light scoring about 4-5 mils below the rings, photo of exhaust side. As I rolled it the skirt was bright and shiney. Will need to watch it. Sure runs good. It cranked up on the 4th pull. I was going to mill today and can not get my 070 started. Something is wrong with the decomp.it wants to break my arm. Guess I will just do yard work
kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
Yes sir, show me what you get. We might be twins
kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Lol. Will do have to wait till next month which is not to far away now but I'm going to have a good idea of what I'll be getting and the beautiful woman who understands me is giving the OK so I'm definitely not going to be passing that up. Lol
David.M
ArboristSite Lurker
So far I only have 5 minutes of run time on my 660. You guys are making me nervous with all this talk about piston/cylinders failing. Mine is 100% farmertec so far, minus bar, chain, and chain tensioner. I'll inspect the piston/cylinder after I get a few tanks on it.
I currently have the farmertec compression release on it. With the release in the "up" position (closed), I can hear air hissing out of it when I pull the starter cord. Is that normal? Or should it be 100% air tight when pulling it over? When the saw was running I didn't notice any air/exhaust coming from it. I have a plug on order for it that should arrive any day. If I decide I need a compression release later, I will put OEM in.
I currently have the farmertec compression release on it. With the release in the "up" position (closed), I can hear air hissing out of it when I pull the starter cord. Is that normal? Or should it be 100% air tight when pulling it over? When the saw was running I didn't notice any air/exhaust coming from it. I have a plug on order for it that should arrive any day. If I decide I need a compression release later, I will put OEM in.
It should not leak. Order an OEM.
I have the 56mm kit on my 660 and have many hours on it without a cylinder failure. I hope I don't jinks myself by saying that. I have not pulled the muffler off in about 5 or 6 hours but up till that point it looked fine. Maybe the 56mm kit is made better. I know it made a difference in power but it seams kind of funky at low RPM. When you let it idle for a few seconds and get back on the throttle it will miss just a little, just enough to be annoying. I have tried to tune it out of it but this is the best it will get. I now have gotten used to it and don't bug me as bad and just except that this is the way it is. Other than that it runs very strong. I have a 28" bar on it and in hard oak with the bar fully buried it just keeps on going. I had it in some 20 to 26" locus the other day and you could not ask it to perform any better. I did start with a good sharp chain but if you know locus you understand it is a chain killer. Very hard wood.
Brian
I have the 56mm kit on my 660 and have many hours on it without a cylinder failure. I hope I don't jinks myself by saying that. I have not pulled the muffler off in about 5 or 6 hours but up till that point it looked fine. Maybe the 56mm kit is made better. I know it made a difference in power but it seams kind of funky at low RPM. When you let it idle for a few seconds and get back on the throttle it will miss just a little, just enough to be annoying. I have tried to tune it out of it but this is the best it will get. I now have gotten used to it and don't bug me as bad and just except that this is the way it is. Other than that it runs very strong. I have a 28" bar on it and in hard oak with the bar fully buried it just keeps on going. I had it in some 20 to 26" locus the other day and you could not ask it to perform any better. I did start with a good sharp chain but if you know locus you understand it is a chain killer. Very hard wood.
Brian
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
Just wanted to let everyone know it's always a hit and miss with these saws it's just my luck I'm the one that ended up getting bad cylinders it doesn't mean that you will but it's in one way a good thing that it happened to me and not you guy's at least hopefully it doesn't happen to you guy's anyways. I'm at all means not bragging but I can here things most people can't easily here because I'm legally blind yes I still have my eye sight but I've had this problem all my life not trying to do a sob story here it just the way it is in my world this is how I new there was something not quite right with my second cycle when I was running it but anyways just keep a close eye on yours after running them. And now Bedford T i went ahead and got factory cylinder bolts today just because the farmertec ones have been on and off so many times on mine that it just made sense to replace them and I ordered a factory ristpin barring and clips just because. Lol. And next month I'm going to be ordering up the new piston and cylinder ether highway or meteor which ever one available at the time for the right price. You know what I mean. 
golddredgergold
ArboristSite Operative
So looking around on a group of 660 owners and reading a bit about big end rod bearing failures. Some comments have been made that it is failing due to to much compression. That it cannot take the cylinder being milled and compression to high. Now I don't agree with this because of a couple of reasons. One being if I bolt a 56mm top end on I am technically loading the bearing harder just the same right? All things being the same not touching the so called stock squish. Bigger piston more power more load and guys are doing fine with them.
Two. The "stock" squish is all over the place. Some guys reporting .020 right out of the box while others are as high as .037 out of the box. So you could not say what the base line is for a "safe" stock setup. I ended up with a very big squish. .034. I took it down to .026. I am happy. I am not after max power I am after long life. So I am leaning to the conservative side. What do you guys think on this?
I personally think its more of the random flawed parts. Bad hardness, bad bearing pin maybe not a perfectly round pin or pins, out of round rod end. Very similar to the cylinder issues. Overall I don't mind tinkering with it. Cranks are cheap so are cylinders. If I get even 5 gallons before some work though it I will be happy. Used 660 here is $900 minimum. No bar. I have $450 in my entire setup with a 42" bar. Wj-76 carb, oem wrist pin clips and bearing, oem gas cap, brake spring, oem Decomp, ho oiler. Figuire its going to last me awhile.
Two. The "stock" squish is all over the place. Some guys reporting .020 right out of the box while others are as high as .037 out of the box. So you could not say what the base line is for a "safe" stock setup. I ended up with a very big squish. .034. I took it down to .026. I am happy. I am not after max power I am after long life. So I am leaning to the conservative side. What do you guys think on this?
I personally think its more of the random flawed parts. Bad hardness, bad bearing pin maybe not a perfectly round pin or pins, out of round rod end. Very similar to the cylinder issues. Overall I don't mind tinkering with it. Cranks are cheap so are cylinders. If I get even 5 gallons before some work though it I will be happy. Used 660 here is $900 minimum. No bar. I have $450 in my entire setup with a 42" bar. Wj-76 carb, oem wrist pin clips and bearing, oem gas cap, brake spring, oem Decomp, ho oiler. Figuire its going to last me awhile.
David.M
ArboristSite Lurker
I generally don't use compression releases on saws, even if they have them. So I'm just going to plug it for now. If it's too hard to pull I'll put an OEM one on.
I have some experience with black locust wood. It is hard and tough. Watch out for the needles/spikes in the foliage. Black Locust and Madrona are arguably the two most coveted varieties of wood for firewood in this region.
I have some experience with black locust wood. It is hard and tough. Watch out for the needles/spikes in the foliage. Black Locust and Madrona are arguably the two most coveted varieties of wood for firewood in this region.
I think the bearing is not made to endure the extra compression. It's a good bearing. You are right the cranks are cheap but it's a pain to tear it down. So the top was the cause of my problem. And many reports the guys were being all political and had such a mix of parts they were unsure what caused the problem. I believed from day one with the right parts they would be runners and I have seen that be true over and over until the top problem came up. It would be a single production run in my thinking so not pandemic
Edit, the 76-1 is crank bearing insurance
kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
The way the come out of the box they are still faster than a Homelite Zip with less wieght.
You want to mill, get an old LA Case and a real sawmill.
MG porting
ArboristSite Guru
I believe farmertec has two different crankshafts for the ms660.
They make some of their parts and buy some of their parts. I have seen the parts change over time from the first kits sold. All the parts have changed multiple times. They have even had at least two handle/tanks molds which is the most expensive part for them to produce. Some were improvements and then those improvements sometimes back slid. The different cylinders are mind blowing, that has been constantly changing. I will say this. They have never changed the spike package that shorts you the nuts. They were short in the first kits and are still missing. I could go on.
I have kept up with this and the recent problems are simply because they bought outside cylinders. Nothing would cause bearing faliure faster than the symmetry being off in the cylinder. Oh one more thing, a crappy carb. They can starve those bearing. To start they don't produce enough volume they are very restricted. Then many kit builders excersise there ability to customize and change the saws they produce and they almost always want to increase compression, most use a FarmerTec carb and that carb has the EPA jets and boom...
I have said from the get go that they are good if they are copies and with the changes we adapted and changed to some oem parts. Giving us a saw that will serve us well. The first kits had 76-1 cloned, that went away fast
kit info & packing lists @ http://thechainsawkitguy.com
