FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

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So what is the consensus (if there is one) is the parts kit Carb good enough or should I order a WJ-76?

Finally ordered the 660 kit since it was on sale.
 
So what is the consensus (if there is one) is the parts kit Carb good enough or should I order a WJ-76?

Finally ordered the 660 kit since it was on sale.
The carb is good enough but if you live under 1000 feet sea level you will need to reajet the carb
 
So what is the consensus (if there is one) is the parts kit Carb good enough or should I order a WJ-76?

Finally ordered the 660 kit since it was on sale.
I disagree. MG is not using the farmertec carb. I am not using the farmertec carb. Why? we understand that the carb brings lubrication into the cylinder. If you want to tinker that's good. But if you want your saw to last get the walbro and use 40:1 / 32:1 as needed. The carb is less than 40$.

It is just too important. Not many of us are still using the cylinders either. Quailty control is an issue with those pieces. Same with piston bearings and other items. If you are just going to build it cut a piece of wood and put it on the shelf just use the stuff in the kit. If you plan on using it, reconsider

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An example, One of my YouTube subscribers that lives in Croatia contacted me about how delighted he was with his 440 kit. We had a nice chat over a week. One day he writes these huztl parts are junk just look at this main bearing while holding the piston wrapped inside his hand. (Nothing fishy there).

What I saw was the potential of one of the circlip ears or a roller out of the piston bearing damaging the main bearing. But he did not want to talk about it.

Folks we are building saws, they start out all leaky, quailty checks are not done. It's up to us to be suspicious and thoughtful in what we do on our own to make it a good copy. If it is not a good copy, a copy of something we know that works well we have junk on our hands. But with small tweaks, we win

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Not many of us are still using the cylinders either. Quailty control is an issue with those pieces.

I have a bore guage, do you happen to have measurements and clearance spec for oem parts? I can check how far off the AM ones I get are and if they are 'oval' or not.
 
I have a bore guage, do you happen to have measurements and clearance spec for oem parts? I can check how far off the AM ones I get are and if they are 'oval' or not.
I don't sweat the oval or out of round. I am most concerned with the chamfered edges around the ports and the base of the cylinder being square to the bore. Little out of round is ok. But sharp chamfer that hangs a ring is bad. Also make sure you slide the rings into the cylinder one at a time. Use the piston to square it up in the bore and measure the ring end gap. Make sure there is whatever preferred gap or factory recommends. This is a huge deal and overlooked by many. If its to close file them. I fear this is the demise of many of these huztl cylinders. Bad chamfers and the rings grow due to expansion and bad rings gap and they dig in to the cylinders and hang rings on ports.
 
I have a bore guage, do you happen to have measurements and clearance spec for oem parts? I can check how far off the AM ones I get are and if they are 'oval' or not.
I don't but I bet we can get that info. I personally have had these cylinder be out whack enough to make them not run. I have knowledge of various other conditions that limit their life. If the cylinder is not round it effects the overall lubrication. Goldie makes a valid point on the ring fitting, but I feel the other aspects are true as well.

How many oem cylinders are not round or not finished properly, I suspect not many. I bet a fellow with a lathe and the talent and resources to make a mandrel might have an opinion like Goldie. For us regular guys we need them ready to run or close enough some sandpaper will do it

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I have 2 running huztl cylinders and 1 with a meteor.
The huztl's arn't round. And when I tore my first one down after only a couple tanks I could tell. The saw was still running fine but I wanted to upgrade the cylinder before I gave it away. The cylinder had a lot of high spots where the rings were starting to wear first.

If anyone wants to try and make one work and see for how long try some things out.
On two I built that's still running the huztl cylinders I cleaned the ports, ball honed the cylinder with Transmission fluid really quick, I check my ring end gap and wanted around
.080 if I can using hyway rings. Oem pin and bearing, then Bolt the jug down with dirko for a .023 squish, that was consistent at the time. One saw has to have over 20 gallons through it or more with a 32" bar. I tune 12,5-12,8 with a 32 and 36" and 12,8-13,0 with a 20-25" bar.
Oh yeah, Their handles are crap for pro work. Even the 3/4 wrap, so they get a used oem. I still have a early 2017 kit still in the box I need to play with lol.
 
They missed a whole machining op on my 372 big bore cylinder, the cylinder base isn't even machined and the squish area has 20 thou more clearance towards the cylinder wall than the middle of the squish band.
 
Smooth as a baby's bottom. I never knew what good was until now. The AM cylinders lack real bad
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FarmerTec is not going to do anything. What sort of feedback would you give, it works, they don't give a description that says it's the lastest. I suspect that is why you are not handling directly with HL. Whining in here does nothing other than provide helpful information on the difference in the trigger types. They made their investment now just buy a trigger and be done.

These Chinese dudes do not care what you think, I know that from direct personal involvement.

HL thought this out and they say don't build a saw with it lol

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I got my $10.00 refund this morning. OEM trigger coming next week.
 
Check this out. I had trouble brewing MG said his was doing same thing. So had I left it it would have likely broken off and tore it up.

I still got the humdinger coming.

I think, I never got a straight answer but this is similar to that cross cylinder faliure. So that might have come from their factory. 3 bad cylinders on kit.


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chainsaw kits and packing lists
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Check this out. I had trouble brewing MG said his was doing same thing. So had I left it it would have likely broken off and tore it up.

I still got the humdinger coming.

I think, I never got a straight answer but this is similar to that cross cylinder faliure. So that might have come from their factory. 3 bad cylinders on kit.


52b36e107abfb0473c4452b3f6fcd86f.jpg
d9ccefd0c06b81a2f7cef3d1a59f5b77.jpg


chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
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I think more people are having the same problem but there not wiling to come out and say it or there just not noticing it yet until it's going to be to late.
 
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