logcutter429
ArboristSite Operative
Oregon power match for me, used the Woodsman Pro top notch bars abit pricey though.
favorite saw bars
- Thread starter Ryan Willock
- Start date
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tundraotto
Addicted to ArboristSite
oregon powermatch does the trick for the money.
bend them, bend them back, pinch the rail, open it back up and youre good to go.
bend them, bend them back, pinch the rail, open it back up and youre good to go.
crowe
ArboristSite Operative
Hello,
I have cut for twelve years now and run every bar coming and going I think. Stick with the Oregon Powermatch for the money you can do no better. Cannon's are nice but they cost dang near twice as much as a Oregon and another thing about cannons is they use a Oregon single rivet tip. Cannons are great bars but they are a little heavy more so than a Oregon especially in the longer lenghts and to me in the woods anyway I can cut down on weight I thank myself at the end of the day lugging a saw up and down the hill all day that wants to nose dive on you is no fun. I have had no luck at all with GBBARS they were just terrible I dont know if I got a bad lot of them or what I bought half-dozen four years ago and still have three new ones left, all the dog bolts had to be ground down the tip was all burred up out of alignment just junk. I started having similar problems with Windsor bars about four years ago I use to run them alo so I swithced to GBBARS then to a Woodsman Pro(cannon), then to a Cannon and then finally back to Oregon. Baileys and Madsens sell them for around 34$$ a piece and can probably do you alittle better if you buy by the half dozen or more. I would order a half dozen bars, a dozen tips and a rail closer and you will be set for good long run. Hope this helps, later Wade
I have cut for twelve years now and run every bar coming and going I think. Stick with the Oregon Powermatch for the money you can do no better. Cannon's are nice but they cost dang near twice as much as a Oregon and another thing about cannons is they use a Oregon single rivet tip. Cannons are great bars but they are a little heavy more so than a Oregon especially in the longer lenghts and to me in the woods anyway I can cut down on weight I thank myself at the end of the day lugging a saw up and down the hill all day that wants to nose dive on you is no fun. I have had no luck at all with GBBARS they were just terrible I dont know if I got a bad lot of them or what I bought half-dozen four years ago and still have three new ones left, all the dog bolts had to be ground down the tip was all burred up out of alignment just junk. I started having similar problems with Windsor bars about four years ago I use to run them alo so I swithced to GBBARS then to a Woodsman Pro(cannon), then to a Cannon and then finally back to Oregon. Baileys and Madsens sell them for around 34$$ a piece and can probably do you alittle better if you buy by the half dozen or more. I would order a half dozen bars, a dozen tips and a rail closer and you will be set for good long run. Hope this helps, later Wade
Sethro
Heathen
Don
Rollornose tip, .058 chain in a .063 gauge bar and rollor nose is about as small as you can get away with. Anything smaller , and bar will end up with uneven rails from the chain riding crooked.But pitch wize there great but rollornose tips don't take the boreing and abuse as good as the replaceable sprocket nose. Seth
Rollornose tip, .058 chain in a .063 gauge bar and rollor nose is about as small as you can get away with. Anything smaller , and bar will end up with uneven rails from the chain riding crooked.But pitch wize there great but rollornose tips don't take the boreing and abuse as good as the replaceable sprocket nose. Seth
StIhL MaGnUm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Seth,
I agree with you there rollernoses definetly don't take the abuse a replaceable sprocket nose bar can...
Later Rob
I agree with you there rollernoses definetly don't take the abuse a replaceable sprocket nose bar can...
Later Rob
don
ArboristSite Guru
boreing with a bar
Rollernose is not recoomended for boring as I am told by manufacturers.
Don't have a tree requiring this technique and when I do I chop it up, for I am concerned with kickback on start of the bore.
Rollernose is not recoomended for boring as I am told by manufacturers.
Don't have a tree requiring this technique and when I do I chop it up, for I am concerned with kickback on start of the bore.
StIhL MaGnUm
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think I'll stick to my replaceable sprocket nose bars for now on...
Tony Snyder
Addicted to ArboristSite
It is really hard to get a good comparison, so many of them die from accident or poor maintenance
than from honest wear.
You would have to do some kind of a designed experiment in a lab to get an apples to apples comparison.
I had a guy take a new BG and come back two days later, had pinched it, and fixed it himself. We ordered him four spare bars.
than from honest wear.
You would have to do some kind of a designed experiment in a lab to get an apples to apples comparison.
I had a guy take a new BG and come back two days later, had pinched it, and fixed it himself. We ordered him four spare bars.
StIhL MaGnUm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Tony,
Your right with that idea most of the bars are junk from accident or just poor maintenance,I usually true up my bars every third or fourth sharpening and deburr them if needed.They just last longer that way I think....
Later Rob...
Your right with that idea most of the bars are junk from accident or just poor maintenance,I usually true up my bars every third or fourth sharpening and deburr them if needed.They just last longer that way I think....
Later Rob...
Sethro
Heathen
Laterrob
If you have to true up your bar every 3rd or 4th sharpening,something is wrong!!! Your cutters probably have a backslope or to much hook or your rackers are at least .020 to low or filed crooked causeing the heel of the cutter to grind the rails.
If you have to true up your bar every 3rd or 4th sharpening,something is wrong!!! Your cutters probably have a backslope or to much hook or your rackers are at least .020 to low or filed crooked causeing the heel of the cutter to grind the rails.
We have sold a few GB bars and don't seem to have any problems with them... I have used just about all of them and for the money they are good "value". Replacement for Stihl Rollomatic ES bars the GB protop has the same unique shape as the Stihl OEM bars (the crown or arch when looking down the rails) and I like that in that you can over lay the two bars and line right up- not so on Oregon Power Match bars for Stihl
Those orange ones look great on a Stihl too
<img src=http://www.stmyer.com/sawpics/SNT20-63PA%20rrear%20044.JPG>
Jeff
Those orange ones look great on a Stihl too
<img src=http://www.stmyer.com/sawpics/SNT20-63PA%20rrear%20044.JPG>
Jeff
Sethro
Heathen
Jeff Sikkema
Last weekend when warming my saw and after spraing chips all over the announcers and timmers they said I needed chaps to compete.I need some chaps. I ware 34 -32 pants. If you could tell me the measurements to take. Seth [email protected]
Last weekend when warming my saw and after spraing chips all over the announcers and timmers they said I needed chaps to compete.I need some chaps. I ware 34 -32 pants. If you could tell me the measurements to take. Seth [email protected]
StIhL MaGnUm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Seth,
I did'nt say I "had" to true up my bars every 3 or 4th sharpening I just check them and see if the rails need to be closed up at all,I just like to keep track that's why I check it so often...
Just call me MaG
Later, Rob..
I did'nt say I "had" to true up my bars every 3 or 4th sharpening I just check them and see if the rails need to be closed up at all,I just like to keep track that's why I check it so often...
Just call me MaG
Later, Rob..
daveb
ArboristSite Operative
bars
I burned up two laminated bars of the type that came on my 351 in short order. I switched to a sandvik/windsor mini-pro with replaceable tip and had no problems since.
I burned up two laminated bars of the type that came on my 351 in short order. I switched to a sandvik/windsor mini-pro with replaceable tip and had no problems since.
donthraen
ArboristSite Guru
Ive used different bars stihl seams to ware faster to me but if you can find an old roller nose get it they are heavy but you will notes little to no ware and much hire speeds and power I did find a place that makes them but only for hot saws and hi$
o8f150
Tree Freak
carlton bars and chains
Stihlman441
Addicted to ArboristSite
Only use GB Titanium bars.
PineFever
ArboristSite Operative
tdi-rick
Addicted to ArboristSite
Wow, a damn near 8 year old thread... why ???
At least no one can accuse you of not searching.
Chippy Chad
ArboristSite Lurker
I just bought a new j-red 2171 & wanted a 24" bar instead of the stock 20", got it from a small one man shop in my area who has been in the buisness for a long time with alot of logger & homeowner customers. He put a gb titanium on my saw, said he keeps them in stock because he uses them on his sawmill. He believed it was the best bar for the money, new it was $62 I traded him the stock 20" and $20 just wish it wasn't orange, I have a major color clash going. lol
