Fireproof Wallboard

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flatpikr

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I want to place a barrier between my stove and the walls near it. Is asbestos wallboard an option. Fortunately my stove is in the basement which has solid concrete walls with sheetrock. Been heating for 14 years down there with no problem. But, I would still feel better if someone would suggest a way to keep the heat off the walls. Thanks.
 
You could make a barrier with Hardibacker cement board. I don't really understand why you need to worry about sheet rock as it in itself is a fire barrier. Are you worried about wooden beams behind the sheet rock?
 
I used Durarock cementous backer board. It comes in 3x5 and in some areas 4x8. Space it off the wall a couple inches and it would work well.
 
I used Durarock cementous backer board. It comes in 3x5 and in some areas 4x8. Space it off the wall a couple inches and it would work well.

^ That's the ticket, and make sure to space it for optimum heat disapation.
 
Heat shield kits are effective and usually easy to install.

Fire rated sheet rock would offer no more benefit over standard sheet rock in this instance. The only advantage in fire rated sheet rock is fiberglass mixed into the gypsum... the idea being it will hold together under exposure to a fire in a room so it provides a barrier where as the standard stuff would crumble.

They both have combustible paper on both sides, AFAIK.

That being said... I don't see that there's much danger here anyway... especially if you're following the recommended clearances. The only combustible part of sheet rock is the paper, and when painted it takes quite a constant and intense impingement for it to burn. The real danger is when you do have a room and contents fire, it can add enough comubstibles to the atmosphere to get to flashover a little bit faster, but the fire rarely starts and grows because of the sheet rock (never seen a case of that).
 
Thanks

Thanks to all that responded. I mostly post on Chainsaws but I've gotta say, this forum has some thoughful folks. Thanks again. I'll be back. BTW, I heat a 2 story hourse with a Country Comfort stove. Don't even know if they're made anymore.
 
Flat: As others stated, hardi-backer or duroc. Believe it or not, sheetrock is not fireproof, period. You may have 5/8" 2-hour rated rock, still, not fireproof. My insurance folks gave me the ins and outs when I installed mine, was surprised to here about sheetrock. It spreads the heat through it to framing members overtime drying them out, where the other two do not. There is a website that tells about this, I will try to find it. Bruce
 
Flat: As others stated, hardi-backer or duroc. Believe it or not, sheetrock is not fireproof, period. You may have 5/8" 2-hour rated rock, still, not fireproof. My insurance folks gave me the ins and outs when I installed mine, was surprised to here about sheetrock. It spreads the heat through it to framing members overtime drying them out, where the other two do not. There is a website that tells about this, I will try to find it. Bruce

Really depends on what you call "fireproof." Where his is attached to "solid concrete" heat conduction to the concrete through the gypsum is not a big concern.
 
I have the Durarock cement board behind my homemade woodstove in my barn. Since it's in my barn, I wasn't real concerned what it looked like. It's not pretty, but it keeps the extremely dry cedar slab nice and cool.

660grizzman
 
i use the cement board also 3x5 sheet i think it was. i just have some on the ceining over the stove and where ther pipe goes into the chimney. so far so good. as youve found the guys in this section of as are a good easy goin bunch of guys :)
 
Mine is the cement board with face brick (it's in my foyer/living room). Installed using a screw and ceramic spacer set meant to be used with it that keeps it 3/4" from the wallboard. The board itself is set 2" above the floor, so that air can enter from below to circulate and help remove heat from the cement board and any modest amount of heat getting to the wallboard.
 
A million thanks

Just got back from TrueValue (lucky to have one in a one stoplight town) with 2 1/4" 3x5 sheets of Duraroc. They are already in place and I'm greatful to all of you for steering me in the right direction. Even though the stove is in a concrete walled basement, it appears as though they have built out a 3 or 4" sub wall. So I'm feeling much better about the whole thing. Again, this is our sole souce of heat (thus my love of chainsaws) and, although I have been heating for 14 years without the Duraroc, I'm now feelin "warm" (pun intended) and fuzzy about the whole thing. Thanks Again

Mark
 
In my house, I went a little overboard. I cut the sheetrock out behind where the stove was going to be, on the rear wall and replaced with a 1/4 inch sheet of durock. On the tounge and goove side I mounted a sheet of 1/4 inch durock.

On top of that I spaced another sheet of durock 2 inches with spacers and covered that with porcelin tile. It looks nice, and is a little overboard, but when living in a log cabin, act on the side of caution.

Putting a hand between the gapped portion, I can touch both sides (stove wall) and (house wall) without a case of the "ouchies"

The base is a raised base of 2X4 covered with Durock, and the same porcelin tile.

(Looks nice with the Heartstone II) Now if I could only keep that glass clean
 
FedX stork brings new bundle of joy

Thought you might like to see the newest member of the family. I had a reasonable number of saws before getting involved with AS. Now I have CAD and this shows up today. Can't wait to fire it up. It is not possible to have too much firewood.
 
In my house, I went a little overboard. I cut the sheetrock out behind where the stove was going to be, on the rear wall and replaced with a 1/4 inch sheet of durock. On the tounge and goove side I mounted a sheet of 1/4 inch durock.

On top of that I spaced another sheet of durock 2 inches with spacers and covered that with porcelin tile. It looks nice, and is a little overboard, but when living in a log cabin, act on the side of caution.

Putting a hand between the gapped portion, I can touch both sides (stove wall) and (house wall) without a case of the "ouchies"

The base is a raised base of 2X4 covered with Durock, and the same porcelin tile.

(Looks nice with the Heartstone II) Now if I could only keep that glass clean


If you have an air gap in between then you are "ultra protected" as that is the way most are spec'd in a commercial application, usually with metal hat channel in between, of course codes vary per local/state codes. Dead airspace is a very good insulator. Nice job.:clap:
 
usually with metal hat channel in between,

not quite sure what you mean by HAT Channel? Polish and new to the design phase. I just knew that if there was and inch or two, there was room for heat to dissapate. (of course I do have some questions pertaining to the through the ceiling application I have

It is a kit that I picked up from lowes with the steel sleeve that slides over the pipe where it comes through. Then it is triple wall through the ceiling and up through the roof. Nothing within 7/8 inches of the pipe in regards to ceiling / roofing material. Insulation is a good 18/20 inches away. I will post some pictures. (I did according to installation, but was curious if I should/could enclose the chimney pipe with a steel box about 20 inches square to leave enough space? Again, new to this, but I will share pictures when I get a chance to get up in the attic again. :deadhorse:
 
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