First Day With the 440

[KYLogger]

Got to sneak out today and go to the job-site (it helps it's about 1/4 mile from the house) We trammed the 440 over there, I had already had a bunch of oaks bucked off the stump and topped (it's all blowdown) Anyhow I was workin' the brush and my buddy was runnin' the tractor, all I can say is...................WOW.................I know it's a little skidder but......................WOW........................in 3 hours we managed to pull two loads outta the woods.....................IN BLOWDOWN!!!!.................... easily more than doubled production. Now I just gotta wait a little longer and I'll have my dozer and road building will be cake. Then it's time to go under the cliffs and get that big timber!!! I am quite pleased with the ol' girl!

Now we're loggin!!

Tom

 

[Oldtimer]

Awesome!

Mind my advice: When you are finacially able, go get a dual arch 648. You'll do back-flips.

 

[sILlogger]

good deal, having the right equipment makes a world of difference, i don't know your background with equipment so i'll give you some advice-take it as you wish.

• with a new to you machine, drain and refill every fluid and replace every filter on the machine, just so u know it is done.
• grease is cheap, pins are expensive
• hydraulic oil leaks, although fixing them may seem expensive or time consuming, having to add oil every day, the mess, and the fire hazard, not to mention it looks bad, is worth taking the time to fix them,
• preventive maintenance is key, fix stuff before it breaks, because in the woods it is not gonna break at an opportune time or place
• stay on top of fluid changes, fuel filters and keeping air filters clean, it will pay off in the long run, make it a routine.
• mount a fire extinguisher on the skidder
• When equipment starts to break down, weigh the costs of fixing, replacing and your down time. if you figure missing a day of due to a break down costs a few thousand dollars plus whatever it costs to fix, it doesn't take long to justify fixing it before it breaks or buying a newer machine and making a payment. the first day you go to the job and it doesn't start, its costing you money
• your self-employed now, be adament about keeping receipts, mileage, repairs, etc. you'll want the tax right-offs

 

[madhatte]

grease is cheap, pins are expensive

This is a good philosophy regarding any piece of equipment, from a hammer on up.

 

[redprospector]

Tom,
sILlogger gave you some good advice. I would add that to keep that 440 on all 4's load the back tires with something.
I've got a 1973 440-b. For what I'm doing it's great. I use winter blend windshield washer fluid in the back tires on mine. It's about $85 a drum and you'll need about 2 1/2 drums to fill 2 18.4-26 tires. That's about as cheap as you can load tires (short of using tap water).

Andy

 

[Frank Boyer]

"Grease and lubes are cheap". To many people go through a set of pins before they use the "ultra expensive" grease gun. They save the barely used grease gun for their grand children!! It is a lot cheaper to change just the oil and filter and not the trans/engine/diff and the oil and filter.

 

[sILlogger]

battery operated grease gun

One od the best things ive bought is a Lincoln 18v grease gun. If your gonna own equipment that takes grease ib recommend it.

Another trick, when u get time, do some measuring and go to a local hydraulic shop, buy caps and plugs for the proper fittings /lines that your equipment has. They are cheap and handy as heck when working on ewuipment in the field.

Cordless tools are a godsend, i use 18vto lithium-ion dewalts, 1/2" impact, drill, 3/8" impact and the most useful rhe cordless grinder (get a flap wheel to dress chainsaw bars, take burrs off chokers, and a cut off wheel for cutting your mainline after a break, faster and cleaner than an impacto) one of my main uses for the 3/8"impact impact is that it fits into the chuck of my chain spinner, and rather than crimping the rivet by hand i use the impact, faster and easier.

Keep spare grease fittings on hand, keep spare fuel filters,

Im trying to throw out ideas of things ive picked up on/learned, im just a 25 yr old punk so im still refining my system.

 

[KYLogger]

Come on guys I'm not an idiot! (note the sarcasm) I appreciate the advice though. I have heard for years "Son, grease is cheaper than parts" have been around ag and construction equipment my whole life (comes with the family) So I am well aware of the old addage "An ounce of prevention...." I like the battery powered grinder idea though. What kinda setup are using to load those tires with, some kinda electric pump with the core out? I am currently trying to find a utility bed for one of my trucks; a POS '99 F-250 gasser:msp_thumbdn: I need more places to store stuff i.e. tools, saws, air comp., torches, fuel tank, kitchen sink.......you get the idea, and my flatbed Dodge just don't cut it! Now I need advice on scrounging up timber, I have a few tenatives and my current job I'm on now, and the opportunity to log by the thousand for a local mill, but would like to get a couple more under contract ASAP. Come on you hardwood guys from the hills in the SE, and Widwest....... Gimme some pointers on hustlin up some timber. I know word of mouth is everything, but I need to build up a reputation first.

Tom

 

[dnash]

advertise in the local papers, print/hand out business cards and flyers, contact some local foresters and get on their mailing lists, go door to door...

If you've got some contract work with the local mill, take it. Once you are steady and established with the local mill, start going out and buy extra lots (only go for the best, prices may not be good but you can always find a home for good timber). The local mill shouldn't have a problem if you sell them the timber.

 

[ShaneLogs]

Awesome!

Mind my advice: When you are finacially able, go get a dual arch 648. You'll do back-flips.

Yes! Those dual arches are really nice! My uncle has one on his 648 also. He loves it.

 

[Oldtimer]

Gimme some pointers on hustlin up some timber. I know word of mouth is everything, but I need to build up a reputation first.

Tom

Tom;

First, like Dnash said, go after the very best you can find- both timber and ground. Don't take whatever comes easy. Anything worth having you must go after. Locate the timber first, then locate the owner. 411 the landowner's name. Failing that, Google works well if you are persistent with search terms. CALL them. A letter will be ignored, in person might annoy them. Call them 3-5 days after the tax bills get sent out in the town where the timber is. Call them around 6:30-7:00 PM. People are always more agreeable after a meal.

Second, know the species, and value of each by heart- including the cost of getting it from the stump to the mill. You can't approach a landowner without being able to talk intelligently about the job you do. I assume you know the best part already. Knowledge is power.

Third, know thy landowners; If you find a landowner has a name like "Artimus Calhoon", you can prolly expect him to be very very old school. Taylor your speech of speach and general personality to his. Likewise, if the landowner is "Tad Montegue-III", you can prolly expect to find a man who's highly educated and has some means. Taylor your sales pitch to that.

Fourth, DO NOT scare up more than you can do within 6-12 months time. Put a bug in their ear, and then take 1 day too long to get there...you will lose it to the guy who can move in immediately. When you do secure a lot, get a written contract with all pertinent info in it signed by the landowner. Specify that they can break the contract for a fee of $600 or whatever you deem fair. This allows them the ability, and allows you a measure of security. It costs money to move in and out and to find the next lot. Spell out exactly what you will do, and what they will do start to finish. Taxes paid by them, landing dressed and closed out by you, everything.

Fifth, Smile, be personable. Be neat in your dress and person. Do not drive clapped out trucks, but don't drive shiny new $60K rigs either. You want to project the look of a competent businessman, not redneck and not shyster. A 3-5 year old truck with the company name on it is about right.

Sixth, get business cards made up @ Staples. Don't get cheap stuff, spend the money on quality.
Your business name should be memorable, but not immature. I have seen logging companies with absurd names. You want class and memorable.
While you're at Staples, buy the best business grade copier paper they have, the cotton blend stuff. You want your contracts and proposals to look sharp and professional.

I am sure I have forgotten some, but this is a good start.
Good luck!