first go at porting on my 660.

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timberwolf said:
Permatex copper will work fine, it's not in contact with gas, it's sandwiched between to pieces of metal into a skim less than .001 in. Just a skim, more than that and it squishes out into the base. Getting rid of the ridge will slightly increase intake durration, thats fine, flow will be improved.
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Thank you very much, that was what I wanted to hear, i will hopefully take that out and get it all back together tonight.
 
Also permatex has a product called Motoseal 1, it's a lot like Yamabond Hondabond ect. This stuff makes a good sealer, but is more a mess to clean up if you pull the saw down often.
 
i was wrong. I think i checked the squish too far away from the edge(2mm) the first time, now with the solder at the edge of the piston, the squish read .010-.011. is this more the norm with no gasket? what do you all think I should set my squish at? I was thinking .018. if that is what I shoot for, what is the best material to achieve .007-.008?
 
breymeyerfam said:
i was wrong. I think i checked the squish too far away from the edge(2mm) the first time, now with the solder at the edge of the piston, the squish read .010-.011. is this more the norm with no gasket? what do you all think I should set my squish at? I was thinking .018. if that is what I shoot for, what is the best material to achieve .007-.008?
Click to expand...

Like Timber Wolfe said Permatex Copper is good to use for base sealing, I have used it for many years and have not had a failure. Its easy to remove if you pull the cylinder often for upgrading and experimenting with porting, pop up pistons, opening up piston windows ,altering squish or shaving the base of the jug, etc. It will last for many years if the cylinder is left in place. Was going to answer the best material to make a .007-.008 gasket but can`t bring myself to do it. LOL.
Pioneerguy600
 
breymeyerfam said:
i was wrong. I think i checked the squish too far away from the edge(2mm) the first time, now with the solder at the edge of the piston, the squish read .010-.011. is this more the norm with no gasket? what do you all think I should set my squish at? I was thinking .018. if that is what I shoot for, what is the best material to achieve .007-.008?
Click to expand...

Would it be possible to run the .5 mm gasket and just mill enough from the jug to get the squish at .02? Steve
 
opinions on turning a slight pop up on the piston vs a .007 base spacer? and if I was to turn .007 off the piston, what diameter to make the popup and profile for the edge?? pics or diagrahms would be helpful
 
hopefully I can post how it runs later, just going to put a thin gasket in and put it together, popup will have to wait.
 
my remedy to needing a gasket...
attachment.php
 
I just completed a Stihl ms660 and ms460 build/woods port a few weeks ago. Turned out great. I dropped and tapered the lower transfers to the base of the cylinder. I also angled and smoothed the upper transfers toward the intake side of the cylinder. I widened, raised, and polished the exhaust port. Removed the casting ridge in the bottom of the intake port, along with the other casting turds left in the intake. Gutted the muffler basket, opened up the stock side port, and bolted on a factory dual port cover. I opened up the exhaust opening just a bit on the cover too. I didn't monkey around removing the cylinder base gasket, or milling the cylinder base. I don't have access to the tools do that. Plus, all high quality pro saws (Stihl, Husky, Jonsered, Echo, Dolmar) manufactured today all have high compression engines. That's why these manufacturers recommend minimum 91 octane fuel. Why spend all kinds of time, money, frustration to raise the compression another 5-10psi on a work saw? I also removed and polished the casting turds/lines from the piston windows. Both saw turned out great. Power and acceleration beyond belief. A night and day difference from their stock form. It is amazing all the power locked up in these saw engines.

Nick
 
Nicholas said:
I just completed a Stihl ms660 and ms460 build/woods port a few weeks ago. Turned out great. I dropped and tapered the lower transfers to the base of the cylinder. I also angled and smoothed the upper transfers toward the intake side of the cylinder. I widened, raised, and polished the exhaust port. Removed the casting ridge in the bottom of the intake port, along with the other casting turds left in the intake. Gutted the muffler basket, opened up the stock side port, and bolted on a factory dual port cover. I opened up the exhaust opening just a bit on the cover too. I didn't monkey around removing the cylinder base gasket, or milling the cylinder base. I don't have access to the tools do that. Plus, all high quality pro saws (Stihl, Husky, Jonsered, Echo, Dolmar) manufactured today all have high compression engines. That's why these manufacturers recommend minimum 91 octane fuel. Why spend all kinds of time, money, frustration to raise the compression another 5-10psi on a work saw? I also removed and polished the casting turds/lines from the piston windows. Both saw turned out great. Power and acceleration beyond belief. A night and day difference from their stock form. It is amazing all the power locked up in these saw engines.

Nick
Click to expand...


Sounds great, but lots of compression will do wonders for any engine.
 
parrisw said:
Sounds great, but lots of compression will do wonders for any engine.
Click to expand...

It sure will. But for some of the newbies trying to learn how to woods port their own saw, raising the compression isn't entirely necessary. Access to the tools required to mill the cylinder base may be a problem for some people. Simply tossing the base gasket and replacing it with Dirko or Honda bond might not get you the correct squish dimensions. By leaving things alone, you still have a high compression engine and your squish dimensions are safe. Raising the compression further will increase performance of course. But, also increase the operating temperature and operating pressures of the engine. Excessive heat/pressure will reduce the durability and reliability of the saw. Durability and reliability are important in a woods ported work saw. Especially when a person makes their living with a woods ported saw. Newbies looking to wood port their saws out should spend most of their time getting the engine to flow and run cool. Once they have mastered that, then experiment with raising compression and play with ignition timing. Get the basics down first.
 
Nicholas said:
It sure will. But for some of the newbies trying to learn how to woods port their own saw, raising the compression isn't entirely necessary. Access to the tools required to mill the cylinder base may be a problem for some people. Simply tossing the base gasket and replacing it with Dirko or Honda bond might not get you the correct squish dimensions. By leaving things alone, you still have a high compression engine and your squish dimensions are safe. Raising the compression further will increase performance of course. But, also increase the operating temperature and operating pressures of the engine. Excessive heat/pressure will reduce the durability and reliability of the saw. Durability and reliability are important in a woods ported work saw. Especially when a person makes their living with a woods ported saw. Newbies looking to wood port their saws out should spend most of their time getting the engine to flow and run cool. Once they have mastered that, then experiment with raising compression and play with ignition timing. Get the basics down first.
Click to expand...

True, but most saws you can remove the gasket and still have a safe squish, some you reduce squish too much. But its super easy to check squish.
 
made a few phone calls and came up with someone who would let me use thier lathe. turned .008 off the top .470 in from the edge. squish is at .019. well it runs again. now to get it tuned and cuttin good and report some times for you all here tomorrow.
 
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<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i716.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid716.photobucket.com/albums/ww161/breymeyerfam/660firstbuild.flv">
video compliments of my wife crystal
 
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