First splitter oil change - what did I do wrong?

[kevin j]

The manual page is an either or procedure. you can either use the dipstick or use the fill plug depending on which side is accessable. I would assume that they interchange back-and-forth and just put the dipstick on the side that is accessible.

with weak eyes or dark conditions I find it easier just to go with the oil level on threads method and not worry about trying to see the dipstick

 

[quotedraven]

Are you on level surface

 

[123trees]

Was the machine sat with the drainplug lowest down? Does it have a filter that requires changing?So is your replacement oil clean/clear or is it erring toward brown/black have you tried a short low rev run & a recheck of oil level Not up with this peticulaar machine so just firing shots off in the dark.

Drainplug is at the bottom of the engine, although I probably should have lifted up the tongue stand to tilt the splitter down... didn't think about that. Oil looked brand new, which makes sense since I had only put 5 hrs on the engine before the oil change (as recommmended by manual). I did try a short rev and re-check, and it was still high.

 

[123trees]

Is this the kohler engine?.

Yes.

 

[123trees]

I'm no mechanic either.
Small engine oil change should be pretty straight forward.
Google it, brand and model engine.
Check your manual again. 20 may have been the page number. Just kidding.
NSMaple 1 is right about draining.
First thing I do...is tuck my beard in. Then I pull my engines, put them on the bench, clean, and change oil. It's a bit of work and probably not necessary but a clean engine looks like I care, and cools better. The conveyor engine is in a hard to get at spot, huge mess, so I just split the Love Joy coupling and pull them off so I can tip them to drain and fill. I'll be doing that today. Did the SuperSplit yesterday. A few bolts and it's on the bench. Actually not. It was outside on a cart, as the wood stove was going and the engine has fuel in it.
Neither take much oil, less than a quart, so I change frequently.
I never know if you push the stick in to check oil level, or push it in and screw it in to check, so I do the first figuring there is more oil and if it is too much it will blow it out the case breather, if and where there is one. Hasn't happened yet.
Did I say, I'm no mechanic.

I did screw it in to check, so maybe that was the issue, although I think it still might have been overfull without screwing it in - can't tell now since I've already let some out. I have double and triple checked that I am reading the manual right Here's the manual if you want to cross-check: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1262445/Dirty-Hand-107036.html?page=13#manual

See bottom of pg 13. Note that it references the 22 ton and 30 ton. Mine is the 25 ton, which I believe is the 22 ton with a different pump. But should be the same engine.

 

[123trees]

Now that I can view the picture larger - you might have a point. That dipstick looks more horizontal than vertical. In which case an accurate dipstick reading might be hard to get. All engines I have had that have had the fill hole oriented like that, that I can remember, I'd just put oil in until it wouldn't hold any more. And I don't think they had dipsticks. Were likely mostly B&S though. The fill hole is low enough that it won't really hold a whole lot before it starts spilling out. (Make sure engine is level when doing this...)

Thanks. I thought the orientation of the dipstick was very strange too. It is very close to horizontal. Makes sense that the way it is oriented and it's height relative to the engine essentially ensures that it won't be overfilled. I'm probably just being overcautious.

 

[123trees]

My understanding with those motors is to fill them to the top of the fill point threads, if oil reaches the lower part of the threads, it needs topping up, fill to almost level with spilling out, that would be near where your original fill of the measured amount was, correct ?

Correct. At the original level, a little bit would spill out when I screwed in the dip stick.

 

[farmer steve]

I did screw it in to check, so maybe that was the issue, although I think it still might have been overfull without screwing it in - can't tell now since I've already let some out. I have double and triple checked that I am reading the manual right Here's the manual if you want to cross-check: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1262445/Dirty-Hand-107036.html?page=13#manual

See bottom of pg 13. Note that it references the 22 ton and 30 ton. Mine is the 25 ton, which I believe is the 22 ton with a different pump. But should be the same engine.

It's not about the tonnage but the engine size. the 22 and 25 Ton that i am familar with both had the sam motor. i have the same motor on my TSC splitter.

 

[123trees]

DHT is one of our sponsors, send them a PM and get the straight answer first time.

I will try this.

 

[123trees]

Does the engine have a oil filter? It may hold a pint or so of oil. We have to recycle used oil . So I usually put it back into its original container. It gives you an idea of what you took out.

Can't find one in the manual.

 

[farmer steve]

Can't find one in the manual.

no filter on this engine.

 

[123trees]

Stihl not sure if it's the Kohler motor on th op's splitter but think it is. (DHT). The manual says not to screw the dipstick in. just checked the manual as i have the same motor. the 6.5 motor has both a dipstick AND an oil fill plug. Both need to be removed when filling. See page 25 of the sevice manual. the one i have highlighted in red.
http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/18_590_11_EN.pdf
http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/18_690_01_EN.pdf

Wow! Thanks so much for looking into this. I really appreciate it! Problem Solved

 

[farmer steve]

Wow! Thanks so much for looking into this. I really appreciate it! Problem Solved

GOOD. One thing i do when i drain the oil on my splitter is to pull the motor over with the drain plug out and THE SWITCH OFF!! This helps to expel the last little bit of old oil out of the crank case. Good luck.

 

[Cody]

I think you've got you're answer, though I just wanted to add that I do a "flush" when I change my oil. I'll drain it, refill and run for a few minutes, usally split a piece of wood, and then drain and refill again. Sort of a waste of oil, but it's a small quantity. Today's oils are usually high enough in detergents that it makes my process a little overkill, or unnecessary, but oh well.

 

[GVS]

Good way to get rid of it. Some people just pour it into the ground

Pouring it on the ground is old school.Still done though.

 

[joecoin]

I think you've got you're answer, though I just wanted to add that I do a "flush" when I change my oil. I'll drain it, refill and run for a few minutes, usally split a piece of wood, and then drain and refill again. Sort of a waste of oil, but it's a small quantity. Today's oils are usually high enough in detergents that it makes my process a little overkill, or unnecessary, but oh well.

I don't go that far, but I will drain off a cup or so after a change, I'll run the engine for a few minutes then draw the cup and replace it.

 

[sb47]

I didn't read every post so it may have already been mentioned. 20oz may be for a dry engine that has never had oil in it. There is always going to be some residual oil that won't come out. Sometimes you can tilt the motor to the side and get more oil to come out.

 

[farmer steve]

GOOD. One thing i do when i drain the oil on my splitter is to pull the motor over with the drain plug out and THE SWITCH OFF!! This helps to expel the last little bit of old oil out of the crank case. Good luck.

I didn't read every post so it may have already been mentioned. 20oz may be for a dry engine that has never had oil in it. There is always going to be some residual oil that won't come out. Sometimes you can tilt the motor to the side and get more oil to come out.

@sb47 . A couple of pulls on the rope will usually push out that last little bit if oil.