First try at chain sharpening

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You guys really measure every tooth to make sure it's the same length? Wow That sounds like a waste of time to me. I don't think it really matters. I have never noticed a difference because one tooth was longer then the others. I always just make sure the angle is correct. Not trying to tell you your wrong I just don't think it's worth it. I would think your loosing chain life for no reason.

Scott

I have to agree with Scott here. I don't think it makes much difference if a few teeth or short. Now you get them all different lengths I'd say it's done.

I buy chains at a drop of a hat. If we can't afford new chains often we're underbidding jobs.
 
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You guys really measure every tooth to make sure it's the same length? Wow That sounds like a waste of time to me. I don't think it really matters. I have never noticed a difference because one tooth was longer then the others. I always just make sure the angle is correct. Not trying to tell you your wrong I just don't think it's worth it. I would think your loosing chain life for no reason.

Scott

Dialing in a chain like that would make it cut smoother. If those guys are cutting super hard wood that might be important...less chatter and vibration.

In soft wood? File by eye-ball and go for it.
 
Dialing in a chain like that would make it cut smoother. If those guys are cutting super hard wood that might be important...less chatter and vibration.

In soft wood? File by eye-ball and go for it.

I guess I just don't pay that close of attention. I mainly cut oak and don't see any problems. But if I really rock one hard I just go to the next chain. If I'm in the woods I'm not going to spend much time sharpening. Just slap a new one on and go. I'll sharpen them on a rainy day.

Scott
 
You guys really measure every tooth to make sure it's the same length? Wow That sounds like a waste of time to me. I don't think it really matters. I have never noticed a difference because one tooth was longer then the others. I always just make sure the angle is correct. Not trying to tell you your wrong I just don't think it's worth it. I would think your loosing chain life for no reason.

Scott

I agree to some extent especially if its just the odd tooth thats longer. Where I've run into trouble in the past when hand filing (I own a MAXX grinder so mainly grind my chains now) is that I've been taking too much off the cutters on one side. You may not notice it on a smaller bar, say 20", but in bigger wood with a 32" bar it would start cutting crooked, sometimes enough to jam the bar - something you don't normally notice on smaller logs, say less than 24", with smaller bars.
I've heard some of the older guys say never to touch a grinder and the only way to get a chain sharp is with a file. Fine if you're an expert - truth is most of these guys wouldn't know a sharp chain if it bit them on the a*s.
 
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Is it just me or do you guy like to hand sharpen a chain on a big saw over a small saw? :computer:
 
Once I have one sharpened with a machine I don't think a file fits the hole right anymore.

When they inprove'em I'll be on it. :agree2:

I think its because a grinder wheel comes in at a set angle (normally around 60°) on a single plane unlike a round file (in a guide) that cuts at close to 180°.
Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong as I'm not 100% sure myself:confused:

I'd rather hand file a chain on a longer bar as long as its skip! Smaller chains I just pull off and replace then sharpen all the blunt ones later on a grinder. The long chains are a pain whether they're hand filed or sharpened on a grinder. Outboard clutch on the 3120 also an excuse to hand file - I hate outboard clutches on big saws with lots of chain and long bars...
 
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When I hit a rock or nail I throw the chain in a bucket and buy a new one.

.

I did the same thing with my old saw, I now have a bunch of chains that either need to be sharpened or are semi sharp.

I have heard of guys getting 10 cord outta a chain, I want to be like that when I grow up!
 
I did the same thing with my old saw, I now have a bunch of chains that either need to be sharpened or are semi sharp.

I have heard of guys getting 10 cord outta a chain, I want to be like that when I grow up!

The trick is to stop an sharpen a chain before it's hammer fu(ked. It cuts the time down by two thirds and is SO much easier.
If it's getting late and we're just wanting to get done and go home. We keep cutting and throw the chain in the bucket later.

My wanna be tree buddies hammer **** a chain to the point it's smoking and not cutting anything. Then ask me to sharpen it for'em.
I tell'em good luck on me buying you a new chain but you'll have better luck getting me to do that then sharping it now.

Touch it up before it's to late fellas.:agree2:
 
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It's just like a knife

It's just like a knife. If you want to recreate that sharp tip every time, go ahead and us it on everything, even rocks! Once it gets good and blunt, go ahead and put that fine cutting edge back on.....It'll take longer ..


Dan
 
The file size is much more critical than the grinder wheel, as the important
angle you are trying to achieve is on the side of the wheel.

That being said, the grinder wheel can go/cut deeper into the gullet and
future filing will tend to wander into the gullet, and not sharpen the top,
which is where you want it to be.
 
Well I'm just a home owner saw user: firewood, clearing, blow-downs, even done some rough carpentry cutting with one; building a barn when I had no electric power nearby. I've always hand sharpened my chains. I haven't always done a good job and especially not at first, but as the years passed I got better and better at it.

But here's the reason I posted. Sitting on a stump trying to sharpen a chain presented some problems to me. The left side cutters were easy for a right handed guy to do; just line up the file with the rake of the cutter and push the file through the groove (the end of the bar is aimed away from you), but the other side was not; it was awkward. I solved this by holding the wrong end of the file and by pulling the file through the right side cutter grooves rather than pushing (the end of the bar is sort of aimed toward you). Does anybody else do this?

How to tell if it's sharp? The best way I know is by the feel of it. You can slide you bare palm down a really dull chain very easily, But when the chain is really sharp you can feel every tooth trying to grab your skin. It's a little like when you sharpen your pocket knife and feel the edge with your finger, and a little voice tells you, Whoa! This baby is sharp! Be careful!
 
You must get all of the damage out, and restore the angle to that of a new one, stop by your local shop, and ask them if they have a new cutter on their
chain looping bench, and use that as your model.

As a rule, if you can see the edge or point, it is still dull.
 
You guys really measure every tooth to make sure it's the same length? Wow That sounds like a waste of time to me. I don't think it really matters. I have never noticed a difference because one tooth was longer then the others. I always just make sure the angle is correct. Not trying to tell you your wrong I just don't think it's worth it. I would think your loosing chain life for no reason.

Scott

I never said I was anal about measuring each tooth to the thousandth. :dizzy:
Like most, I have a tendency to sharpen better on one side than the other and so after screwing it up for 3-4 sharpenings the bar starts to veer to one side.
The caliper is for that 5th sharpening or so when I check rakers and true the cutters up to a reasonably similar length.
I'm also starting up on chainsaw milling and having a near perfect chain makes the difference between a really nice, smooth board or a pos.
 
BTW: I tried out my newly hand sharpened chain. It works just great.

I ended up giving it 30 swipes outta being bored while watching Heli loggers last night
 

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