Fiskars X27

[Macman125]

"20-once framing is the better tool for the job ??"
Mine is 28:tongue2:

 

[hiluxxulih]

I bought me a Fiskars X27 today I like it so far .

 

[Biglurr54]

i bought one of these Fiscars x27's after hearing about how amazing they are. I buy my wood log length triaxle loads. I burn 8-10 cord a year depending on the boiler weather and how well the house seals up. I buck to 20 inch lengths and split each round in half or 3rds. Needless to say i do a lot of splitting all done by hand. I have been using an older 15lb monster maul my father gave me for 2 years now. I got the fiscars and like how sharp it is and the smooth coating, long handle, and light weight. I got it home and lined up with some oak. Sometimes it split sometimes it didnt. Most of the time it will split the wood 90% of the way but the bottom doesnt split making a hinge and you have to either pull it apart or hit it again and drive the ax into the dirt. I've been using the x27 for two weeks now when I load the boiler. Straight grain softer wood it eats up prefect. Anything else I grab the Maul. The edge on it is dull and most of the coating is worn off already. I have 10 cord waiting to be cut and split so well see how it handles it. Im guessing I'll be reaching for the Maul most of the time and im guessing the x27 will be worn out by the time I'm finished which is unacceptable for a $50 splitting ax. The monster maul cost $30 new and it's about 30 years old.

I do like the length of the handle on the x27. It gives good leverage. I think its time to weld a pipe on the Monster maul to get the same leverage. Then it will be unstoppable.

 

[5speed]

i bought one of these Fiscars x27's after hearing about how amazing they are. I buy my wood log length triaxle loads. I burn 8-10 cord a year depending on the boiler weather and how well the house seals up. I buck to 20 inch lengths and split each round in half or 3rds. Needless to say i do a lot of splitting all done by hand. I have been using an older 15lb monster maul my father gave me for 2 years now. I got the fiscars and like how sharp it is and the smooth coating, long handle, and light weight. I got it home and lined up with some oak. Sometimes it split sometimes it didnt. Most of the time it will split the wood 90% of the way but the bottom doesnt split making a hinge and you have to either pull it apart or hit it again and drive the ax into the dirt. I've been using the x27 for two weeks now when I load the boiler. Straight grain softer wood it eats up prefect. Anything else I grab the Maul. The edge on it is dull and most of the coating is worn off already. I have 10 cord waiting to be cut and split so well see how it handles it. Im guessing I'll be reaching for the Maul most of the time and im guessing the x27 will be worn out by the time I'm finished which is unacceptable for a $50 splitting ax. The monster maul cost $30 new and it's about 30 years old.

I do like the length of the handle on the x27. It gives good leverage. I think its time to weld a pipe on the Monster maul to get the same leverage. Then it will be unstoppable.

If you are using an axe to split (or maul for that matter) you should never split on the ground. The axe will.split anything you throw at it. If the rounds are large, work around the outside, then bust the center.

The axe is not working because you have used it wrong and dulled it up. The key is that is MUST remain sharp.

Shapern your axe, and place your rounds on a block or something about a foot tall (wood preferably) to split on so you do not hit rocks or gravel with your axe.

My whole family has split wood for over 60yrs. My dad has a reconstructed shoulder and cannot sling 10# mauls all day so i bought him an X27 and my brother and me as well. My grandfather is in his 90's and he uses one too. Never have had an issue with any of the axes we have. My Grandfather uses an X25 b/c hes so short.

Work smart with any tool and it will last many years to come.

Go sharpen your axe, place your wood on a block so u wont damage the head again, and get back to me. You should not be running into issues with splitting. As people have stated before, wait till hardwood starts to show the grain, then hit it with the axe to make it work for you, not against u.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

 

[JakeG]

i bought one of these Fiscars x27's after hearing about how amazing they are. I buy my wood log length triaxle loads. I burn 8-10 cord a year depending on the boiler weather and how well the house seals up. I buck to 20 inch lengths and split each round in half or 3rds. Needless to say i do a lot of splitting all done by hand. I have been using an older 15lb monster maul my father gave me for 2 years now. I got the fiscars and like how sharp it is and the smooth coating, long handle, and light weight. I got it home and lined up with some oak. Sometimes it split sometimes it didnt. Most of the time it will split the wood 90% of the way but the bottom doesnt split making a hinge and you have to either pull it apart or hit it again and drive the ax into the dirt. I've been using the x27 for two weeks now when I load the boiler. Straight grain softer wood it eats up prefect. Anything else I grab the Maul. The edge on it is dull and most of the coating is worn off already. I have 10 cord waiting to be cut and split so well see how it handles it. Im guessing I'll be reaching for the Maul most of the time and im guessing the x27 will be worn out by the time I'm finished which is unacceptable for a $50 splitting ax. The monster maul cost $30 new and it's about 30 years old.

I do like the length of the handle on the x27. It gives good leverage. I think its time to weld a pipe on the Monster maul to get the same leverage. Then it will be unstoppable.

Definitely use a block. My block is a 12" high x 22" diameter stump. I split 2/3 cord of fresh red oak this weekend with the x27. You have to read the wood and try different techniques.

While coming down with the axe, if I bend my knees/squat straight down rather than leaning towards the cut (THINK: In the gym, doing squats straight up and down with your back perfectly straight), my swings are more effective. This feels unnatural and you have to put concsious thought into it.. But for me, it makes a noticeable difference in accuracy, depth of split and fatigue.

Also, work on speed. A hard swing "will" work with the x27. What works for me is velocity. Coming up with the axe and suddenly striking with speed.

Good luck! Don't give up on the x27, it just takes time to learn. :msp_thumbup:

 

[Whiskey_Bravo]

Last night I decided to rethink my splitting strategy with the X27.

I sharpened it up with a simple bastard file on the bench and took a can of WD40 out to the wood pile with me. I noticed a SUBSTANTIAL improvement right from the get-go. I also decided to correct my swing. I focused more on speed, instead of brute force, and also included the "wrist flick" at the very end of the stroke. Doing this improved my splitting production and required a lot less effort from me. I was splitting some Red Oak and some very stringy Maple rounds. All of the wood was green and the sharpened X27 sprayed with WD40 sliced through all of them. Also, working the outside of the round and following the cracks are key.

Thank you all for your advice and tips. You have helped me improve production and minimize effort. That being said....I still want a Mega Maul, but I guess that is just the Viking in me. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[deepsouth]

Sounds similar to me. I use an old raker file to keep an edge in my Fiskars and use a lanolin spray for non slip (what keeps Sheeps wool oily) and the fiskars works well for me. Trying to get a wetterlings maul for comparison.

 

[Chris-PA]

Some wood splits better green, some better dry. Some rounds like a sharp axe, sometimes a maul is needed to crack it. That's why I usually go to the wood pile with a couple of different tools, and which ones those are depends on what wood I'm working with.

Regardless, with every tool I use it's all about head speed at impact. And axes should always be sharp, and no tool should ever hit the ground any more than your saw chain should.

I have an 8lb maul. I would prefer a 6lb, but my wife picked it up after I broke my last one. I can split a lot of wood with it, but I don't like to use it - not because it doesn't work, but rather because I use so much more energy doing it, reducing the time I can work effectively and putting more stress on my body. There is a reason that in the age of wood such tools were virtually non-existent, and it is not because they couldn't make them.