Fix Poulan Pro For Friend

[anlrolfe]

With bad weather moving into middle of the States this week I mentioned to a friend that he may want to "gas the generator and sharpen the saw". He gave me a look and said "I've got to fix it before sharpening it". So, what do you do?? I got him to bring it in and we gave it a once over. It's a Poulan Pro 46cc Mod# PP4620AVX. First impression was not bad for a home owner. He got it to clear some storm damage several years back and used it a just a hand full of times. Some how he broke the chain pensioner pin. So, I found him an IPL, printed it out and put it into a clear sleeve so that he can keep it with the case. (Ref#65 Part No. 545060501, Pin--Bar Adjust). The broken pin looks like pot metal. This saw has the tool-less adjusting system.

Any thoughts on any of these points?
Durability(considering infrequent use)
Chain adjuster system
Quarks or things to pass on to him to looks for or be aware of concerning maintenance

Thanks,

AR

 

[kevin j]

Call poulan, they will send out a regular conversion cover free. If they won't, its only about $12 to change it.
I've fixed a couple.
And the carb bolts get loose, suck air, and the carb may be 5 turns out trying to make it work.
Having AV is much better than the rigid frame poulans. Not a bad homeowner saw for $100 or so.
What about fuel lines and ethanol and goo?

 

[Chris J.]

The 4620 is a slightly improved 295, which is regarded as a one of the good newer Poulan saws.
Lose the 20" bar if it's still on the saw, get a 16".
Replace the AVX system with a standard tensioner set-up. You can do a conversion, but a new clutch cover is quicker & shouldn't cost much.
A retune might be in order, the factory settings tend to be lean.


Edit--Kevin J types faster than me.

 

[anlrolfe]

I suggested getting a standard clutch cover. I don't think he will bite. He's so tight that he squeaks when he walks. The replacement pin is most likely pocket change. Unless he used it more to become problematic he'll take the cheap way out.

Do you know if the limiter caps pull out without any major trouble... just a long screw needed??

I think the bar & chain got swapped to 18". Didn't measure it but that's what I suspect.

Thanks,

AR

 

[Chris-PA]

They made that saw for quite a number of years in many colors and model numbers, and my 2775 is an earlier version. There are many colors of clutch cover available with traditional chain tensioners. Mine is ported, muffler modded and has the timing advanced and is a fun saw to run. They respond well to just a muffler mod, but the muffler on that version is different than mine.

I run 20BPX chain on a 20" bar and it has no problems at all with it. It likely came with Oregon 33SL which is simply hopeless. I tried everything I could to make that stuff cut fast, including removing the shark fins. Just ditch it if that's what's on it.

Check the engine mounting bolts regularly, as well as the carb bolts. Those engines seem to vibrate quite a bit. The A/V isolates it well, but things tend to work loose. Also the rear A/V spring mount does not like to be yanked on - the spring is oriented at 90deg to the handle and you can put a lot of force on it. The screw that holds it on just threads into plastic - on mine it has been replaced by a through bolt and nut, and I added an access hole in the handle.

I removed the limiter caps long ago - I don't think they were a problem to get out, but I don't remember if they were splined adjusters or not.

 

[anlrolfe]

Just saw 2nd post. I'll tell him to contact Poulan about the cover.

I think it will be much better with bolted/nut connections. I'll check the carb bolts and snug them as needed.

 

[anlrolfe]

Is the rear AV located center rear and low? I think its gone

Tried matching location from IPL and wasn't sure if it was high center rear.

Who would think that someone would yank the mounts loose/apart

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

You talking about this?

I had a guy wanting his put back stock too. Me I would redneck cover.

 

[anlrolfe]

Nope, That's just the thumb wheel. It uses 1-intermediate gear to the adjusting screw. Whats broken is the tab that keys into bar that rides on the adjusting bolt.

I texted him about contacting Poulan. Suggested that if he crys big tears and says that he's worried about the chain loosening up and safety... bla, bla bla.. that they may just sent him another.

 

[Chris-PA]

Rear A/V spring (the one with the nut is not original, nor are the star washers):

 

[CTYank]

Some recent PPs come with "Torch" plugs that should be recycled. Go for NGK on the first instance of starting probs.

Definitely a bit richer on the main for life-expectancy.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Oh well I tried.

1 pic of problem area would be worth a 1000 words or 50 post.

 

[anlrolfe]

✔ A/V mounts
✔ carb bolts
✔ high mix
✔ customer service for clutch cover replacement
✔ fuel lines and filters

roger, wil-co

 

[anlrolfe]

Yup,

Agree 100%

 

[Chris-PA]

✔ A/V mounts
✔ carb bolts
✔ high mix
✔ customer service for clutch cover replacement
✔ fuel lines and filters

roger, wil-co

Plus engine mount bolts. A large number of these saws are destroyed when the engine bolts back out. They used a thread forming screw with a wide flange head, which would normally provide some binding and keep tight. But the head binds against a shoulder bushing that is free floating and able to rotate, so it doesn't lock at all. It's a design mistake. Loctite doesn’t work all that well on the triangular thread forming screws. I replaced mine with hex head cap screws.

 

[anlrolfe]

Are the oilers in these things slow?

 

[Chris-PA]

Are the oilers in these things slow?

Mine oils a 20" bar fine. If debris get in behind the clutch it can booger up the plastic pump gear. Also they get trashed if the engine works loose.

 

[anlrolfe]

I'll look closer. Bar grooves and oil holes clear. I carefully & slowly ran it w/o bar. Just a little dribble from the oiler. I like to see it sling out off the bar really good.

 

[Chris-PA]

I'll look closer. Bar grooves and oil holes clear. I carefully & slowly ran it w/o bar. Just a little dribble from the oiler. I like to see it sling out off the bar really good.

Quite often, it is not required to actually run the saw to see oil dribble out! I just fixed that on min in fact.

 

[anlrolfe]

Bar adjusting pin and screw removed from last pic