Flywheel removal, how do you do it?

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machinisttx

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Generic puller, brand specific puller, hammer method? Need to put seals in my homelite and I'm debating just using the hammer method since I'm not having much luck finding a small puller. I can find plenty of pullers for lawnmower engines, but all of the ones I'm familiar with are either too big or otherwise won't work.
 
I have a couple of Stihl flywheel removal tools, but a lot of the smaller saws don't have the threads to accept them. I often use - with great success - the hammer method. I've never damaged the crank shaft or anything else . . . just be careful.

Get the powerhead just off of your bench by holding the flywheel. Take a small hammer and tap the end of the crank shaft; just do your best not to get out of hand with the force and to keep the hammer head aligned well with the shaft. Hasn't ever taken more than a few hits for me - even on very old saws that were exposed to a lot of weather since the last time they turned over....
 
If I don't have the proper puller:
Loosen the nut enough so the crank threads are not exposed, lay a penny on the nut and give it a rap while holding the saw suspended by the flywheel. The penny keeps the nut from getting buggered. it also helps to hold the recoil pawls back with a rubber band to give you enough room to work.
 
An old timer once told me "IT'S NOT HOW HARD YOU HIT IT>IT'S HOW YOU HIT IT HARD" If that makes any since.
what he was saying is it's that one good bleach that does it. don't mess arround trying to tap it. usually one or two solid blows with the saw in your hand or lap. I've had good luck using this method and haven't damaged anything yet. I Like the Idea of using the penny, I'll be trying that next time. Good Luck.
 
An old timer once told me "IT'S NOT HOW HARD YOU HIT IT>IT'S HOW YOU HIT IT HARD" If that makes any since.
what he was saying is it's that one good bleach that does it. don't mess arround trying to tap it. usually one or two solid blows with the saw in your hand or lap. I've had good luck using this method and haven't damaged anything yet. I Like the Idea of using the penny, I'll be trying that next time. Good Luck.

That penny trick is fine if it's a copper one. Lots of luck trying to find one of them anymore!
 
I just use an automotive gear puller for most but the ones that are tight with no room for the puller I take 2 equal sized slot blade screw driver and place them behind the edge of the flywheel. they don't need to be wedged otherwise you'll damage case paint. just so they are in there touching both the flywheel and the case a little snug then tap the crankshaft end with a stub nose punch. works everytime and I never wreck anything or even chip paint :)
 
That penny trick is fine if it's a copper one. Lots of luck trying to find one of them anymore!

Haven't been copper since 1982 I think. Funny enough, it actually costs about two cents to make one, and melt value for the zinc is actually more than the face value. I think it costs ten cents to make a nickel and melt value is also higher than face value.

Thanks for the answers guys. I really don't like using the hammer method and was hoping someone had found a source for an appropriate generic flywheel puller.
 
I do use a mac brass hammer part no. brh27 as not to kill the end of the crank. As stated earlier I also put the nut flush with the end of the crank. It will not hurt anything.
 
I allways pull off the nut, then spray it with PB Blaster or Corrosion X and let it sit 5 minutes, or a beer
then

If it wont pop off with 2 or 3 shots with a 2# mallot while holding the flywheel with my hand and saw off bench, the air chisel (burp gun) has never let me down
If it needs, I have a stanley window seal remover, basically a small pry bar and put it behind the magnet and pry up just a little, I use a nice point on the air chisel using the nut (about 1-2 threads above the shaft) to keep the point on the shaft and with the slowest and easy pull on the trigger, she pops. Throttle management is key, or just dial down the air pressure.
 
I have a few puller tools but it seems that there are a lot of times they won't work.

Air hammer works well. Small one with a good trigger so you can modulate it gently. Good pointy bit in the center of the shaft with the nut backed off a couple turns pops it loose real easy.
 
I have a few puller tools but it seems that there are a lot of times they won't work.

Air hammer works well. Small one with a good trigger so you can modulate it gently. Good pointy bit in the center of the shaft with the nut backed off a couple turns pops it loose real easy.

I felt really confident when I first tried this method on a Husky 3120. That lasted only about 5 minutes. The flywheel would not budge using the air hammer method. I have managed to remove several flywheels of smaller saws though.
Most important is to protect fins and threads whatever route you choose.
 
I felt really confident when I first tried this method on a Husky 3120. That lasted only about 5 minutes. The flywheel would not budge using the air hammer method.

Squirting penetrating oil on the shaft after removing the nut and allowing it to sit a few minutes is a big help
 
That thread ranks with beer as a life changing discovery. I have some of the FW removal tools, I have an ssortment of pullers,but still use the deadblow. It's quicker and easy, but if you like to use tools.......:dunno:

Amen!!! All of this rigging, and waiting, and finding tools... I can have it off before in less than a minute from the time I pick up the wrench to loosen the FW nut until the FW is in my hand.
 

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