John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
He resisted and compartmentalized the infection for over a year, now he has full blown symtoms of gearitis.
friction hitches
- Thread starter treeclimber165
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Kneejerk Bombas
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The next step will be using a cambium saver.
I know, you been climbing for twenty years and you don't need no stinkin' "whachyamacallit". It takes too long to set and too long to take down. It costs too much. Blah, blah, blah.
Take my word for it, you need one.
I know, you been climbing for twenty years and you don't need no stinkin' "whachyamacallit". It takes too long to set and too long to take down. It costs too much. Blah, blah, blah.
Take my word for it, you need one.
Tom Dunlap
Addicted to ArboristSite
Welcome to the ranks of progressive climbing!
This testimonial proves, once again, that once a climber moves from tautline/Blake's to split tail and advanced hitches, they zoom into the Modern Age and never look back.
Good for you! Now spread the gospel to other climbers in your area.
Tom
This testimonial proves, once again, that once a climber moves from tautline/Blake's to split tail and advanced hitches, they zoom into the Modern Age and never look back.
Good for you! Now spread the gospel to other climbers in your area.
Tom
treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
I Tried the V.T. yesterday, and I'm not as impressed as I thought I'd be. It might be because my hitch rope was too long, but it didn't grab real well and took me a lot longer to tie than the Distal. It required a LOT of fiddling to get the legs the same length. It also had more resistance when I was ascending. I guess I gotta keep playing with it so I can figure out why everyone likes it so much.
I found a great picture of the V.T. last night, borrowed from Fresco's online store site.
I found a great picture of the V.T. last night, borrowed from Fresco's online store site.
treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
Wrong picture, lets try this one.
Kneejerk Bombas
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Brian, That's one version, not mine though.
With your biner off your saddle tie the hitch and add the fair lead, once it's on the host rope, lift it up a couple of inches and pull down quickly. Repeat this 5 or 6 times quickly. If it does not lock down every time, retie it shorter. If it locks down every time but moves up with any difficulty(like the distel on it's best day), then lengthen. An increment as little as 1/4" can change everything.
Even changing host ropes can change the way it works.
With practice, and both ends of the prussic loop disconected, it should only take 5 or 10 seconds to tie. You leave the DFLs in after you set the length, then just clip it on.
Be careful, this ain't the hitch for your momma.
Low and slow.
With your biner off your saddle tie the hitch and add the fair lead, once it's on the host rope, lift it up a couple of inches and pull down quickly. Repeat this 5 or 6 times quickly. If it does not lock down every time, retie it shorter. If it locks down every time but moves up with any difficulty(like the distel on it's best day), then lengthen. An increment as little as 1/4" can change everything.
Even changing host ropes can change the way it works.
With practice, and both ends of the prussic loop disconected, it should only take 5 or 10 seconds to tie. You leave the DFLs in after you set the length, then just clip it on.
Be careful, this ain't the hitch for your momma.
Low and slow.
Tim Gardner
ArboristSite Guru
Here is a picture of one of the v.t. hitches I was using before I went to a mechanical hitch. It is (I think) 3 wrap 2 braid. The cord is 5/16 double braid with eye splices and is 24” in length. This is the combination that works for me. It performs well on 3/8”, 7/16” and ½”. Grabs fast and releases easy.
My last v.t. was 7 wrap 2 braid 3/16” tech cord @ 33”. I loved that one but had to use Double Fisherman’s Loops to connect to the biner.
My last v.t. was 7 wrap 2 braid 3/16” tech cord @ 33”. I loved that one but had to use Double Fisherman’s Loops to connect to the biner.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I've seen guys have the pully on a separate biner ifthe have the sliding center, like a Komet Butterfly.
Tim Gardner
ArboristSite Guru
JPS,
What would the benefit be of having the pulley on a separate biner? I like the way my rig works but if there is a better way I am all for it.
What would the benefit be of having the pulley on a separate biner? I like the way my rig works but if there is a better way I am all for it.
In my opinion, the Distel is a much better hitch than the v.t.
The v.t. will lose at least 10 cm each time before "extending" into the grab position. That means meters and meters of useless pulling by the end of the day. A very short distel moves much faster in both directions. The only disadvantage I'll concede, is the distel's superior wear. But who cares?
Sergio
The v.t. will lose at least 10 cm each time before "extending" into the grab position. That means meters and meters of useless pulling by the end of the day. A very short distel moves much faster in both directions. The only disadvantage I'll concede, is the distel's superior wear. But who cares?
Sergio
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John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Sorry I missed this one, I do it because I'm less likely to drop it when tieing in. I ascend before doing so so I've dropped a pully while dangling off my lanyard.
Tim Gardner
ArboristSite Guru
JPS - thank you for the reply. I get it now. 
I have lost a pulley once while climbing and cursed for 10 minutes looking for it. Since then I have my hitch tied before ascending. I use a different rope to footlock. That way I can step onto the limb unclip my shunt and move on. The groundie can have my 3/8" static done up before I hit my TIP.
I have lost a pulley once while climbing and cursed for 10 minutes looking for it. Since then I have my hitch tied before ascending. I use a different rope to footlock. That way I can step onto the limb unclip my shunt and move on. The groundie can have my 3/8" static done up before I hit my TIP.All of our climbers including myself prefer a VT over a distil because of the resistance to advance the hitch. We are losing a little because of the collaping but with the repetitive motion of advancing a hitch we prefer as little resistance as possiable.
Terminology??
Just want to make sure I am using the proper terminology. I see this being mixed a lot here or not differentiated at all. I am headed out to give the XT a whirl today. I am curious about the distinction between the m.t. and v.t.
Maas lists it here is this correct?http://amazingforums.com/forum/XMAN/14.html
I have been using the crossing and the not crossing versions off and on over the last few weeks.
Just a bit concerned as I have heard these knots are tied 100%correct or 100% wrong.
Just want to make sure I am using the proper terminology. I see this being mixed a lot here or not differentiated at all. I am headed out to give the XT a whirl today. I am curious about the distinction between the m.t. and v.t.
Maas lists it here is this correct?http://amazingforums.com/forum/XMAN/14.html
I have been using the crossing and the not crossing versions off and on over the last few weeks.
Just a bit concerned as I have heard these knots are tied 100%correct or 100% wrong.
Tim Gardner
ArboristSite Guru
It just does not seem worth the effort to tie the m.t. correctly. Does someone have a tip to speed it up or make it simple.
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John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
MT reverses rotation from the top coil going to the bottom "tress" then just keep one leg always on the bottom as you wrap down.
There are so many different members of the family VT, MT, XT - I can't figure which I like the best. Spend yesterday working the tips on a monster cottonwood (friggin' hate those scary trees).
I mainly stuck with a 4-2 XT w/8mm-T900. Can't say enough good things about that hitch.
I may never be loyal to just one again.
I mainly stuck with a 4-2 XT w/8mm-T900. Can't say enough good things about that hitch.
I may never be loyal to just one again.
