Full wrap handles

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A busted up old logger here told me I should have had one on Twinkle for bucking. There were times when I could have stood in a bit better (safer) position with a 3/4 or full wrap.
 
I ran a Stihl 3/4 on my 046 for about a year and really didnt ever use it. I ended up pulling it off because my saw didnt fit into my toolbox with it on. I thought about putting a full wrap on my 660 for pulling the 36''er but i need to be able to stump really close to the ground so it wouldnt work. thinking or trading the 3/4 off for something else
 
If you're cutting hazard trees of any kind, flat ground or steep, you need a full or 3/4 wrap IMO. It's a MUST to be able to cut comfortably and efficiently from either side of a hazard tree. There's a good side and a bad side.
 
If you're cutting hazard trees of any kind, flat ground or steep, you need a full or 3/4 wrap IMO. It's a MUST to be able to cut comfortably and efficiently from either side of a hazard tree. There's a good side and a bad side.

Exactly, and this is the main reason I want one.
 
A lot of guys on this site think they need fulls wraps when in reality they don't.

I had a specialty-grade commercial thinning contract here a few years ago, cutting telephone pole stock on state ground. Anyone here who has ever cut telephone poles knows how tedious it can be and how much it costs. Contractors bid big bucks for pole jobs because the power company pays even bigger bucks for the poles.

The contract specified stumps to be left lower than 4" and it was moderate ground (15-25%.) I ran a half-wrap the entire job and was the only cutter out of three to meet the requirement on every stump. The other two guys wouldn't run half wraps and had 50-60% of their stumps not meet the quota and were docked 20% of their pay for the entire job. So basically, running their 3/4-wrap or full-wrap handles for two weeks cost them almost $600.
 
Always "flush" stumps. Unless the OP is doing commercial work or + "20 on slopes what advantage does he get from spending the extra $100.00+ dollars on full wraps for a 576?

1. He would not have to cross over the tree to complete the falling cuts which he does not have to do now.

So again, manly men, what advantage is there to full wraps in Va. on a 576?

1. Probably none.

blue dog,if you want them buy them but they become useful felling with 28" bars and steep slopes. Some members have posted some photos of when a set of full wraps would be needed. If your situation is similiar than full wraps would be a good idea.

The handle bar really doesn't get in the way, I never had trouble making low stumps, even on flatter ground..
to me, a chainsaw is not complete without a handle bar all the way around it, I would swap my 3/4 but it works fine enough..
 
some of my cutting is in yards and around houses so it has to be as low as possible. in the woods my 3/4 never got in the way
 
I guess you either could use them or ya can't. If you need to put stumps flush with the grass, they aren't gonna work. But if you are ambidextrous and, or want some more options for where you can stand, they are handy(no pun intended). Chip/noodles haven't bothered me when I had the standard clutch cover on my 372, and certainly weren't an issue on my large cover on the 046 and my 385xp. A short scrench is a mere $3 from Baileys, and they often come with the saw if you purchase it with the full wrap. I prefer a full wrap to the 3/4 simply because of the feel alone. I also like a full wrap over a standard due to the top of the bar being basically nearly exactly perpendicular to the B&C. It just works for me.

Here are a few pics of my 385xp with the full wrap, large(AKA PNW) clutch cover and short scrench:

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They do, i got that on my 372xpg and my 394xpg both have heated wrap handles :)

Wait, what? You wouldn't happen to know the part-number for the Jred version, or where to find it, would you? I spoke to Jonsered Norway, and they were confused.
 
I agree with jj none of us need wrapped handles. Heck even hand saws get the job done
 
I agree with jj none of us need wrapped handles. Heck even hand saws get the job done

I don't know about you guys in Idaho but us jersey boys need full wraps on our handles. Our handles are big and therefor a bigger wrapper is needed. I can confirm that chicks like the full wrap too. :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

sorry for you small handle guys....:msp_biggrin:

as you can tell 2nd grade was a special decade for me !!!
 
i have been felling on a very big very steep hillside i never thought about geting a full wrap before but now im going to find one for my 288 it would have been a real time saver for me at least.
and i have a lot more cutting to do.
 
i have been felling on a very big very steep hillside i never thought about geting a full wrap before but now im going to find one for my 288 it would have been a real time saver for me at least.
and i have a lot more cutting to do.

Let's see some pictures.
 
A lot of guys on this site think they need fulls wraps when in reality they don't.

I had a specialty-grade commercial thinning contract here a few years ago, cutting telephone pole stock on state ground. Anyone here who has ever cut telephone poles knows how tedious it can be and how much it costs. Contractors bid big bucks for pole jobs because the power company pays even bigger bucks for the poles.

The contract specified stumps to be left lower than 4" and it was moderate ground (15-25%.) I ran a half-wrap the entire job and was the only cutter out of three to meet the requirement on every stump. The other two guys wouldn't run half wraps and had 50-60% of their stumps not meet the quota and were docked 20% of their pay for the entire job. So basically, running their 3/4-wrap or full-wrap handles for two weeks cost them almost $600.

Very good point JJ. I prefer a 3/4 wrap over a full wrap. But I still have the half wrap in my truck... just in case I come across a situation where I need a super low stump.

Here is the USA Handlebars 3/4 wrap on my 044 during a recent fallin' job. I'm actually standing on the root buttress.

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Gary
 
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Wrap handles are great, but all the time I spent on a "flush cut" has caused my back bar skills to be exceptional.

Even with full wrap, as long as you have good dogs and sharp chain, back barring is A OK with me, you just have to put your weight into it alittle, but the principals are the same. Back barring even has some of it's own special attributes. . .
 
Is a 3/4 wrap handle available for the MS 261? Where might I find such an item?
 
they go with long bars ,mostly a north west thing because of size of trees and terain ,32 inch bar and 3/4 wrap are most common around here
 
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