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shikkapow

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I have a couple of questions. I am a novice saw user and have a sorta new (to me) saw.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/180119.htm

the saw runs fine and I have a stihl sharpener that I run through the teeth every other tank and it really seemed to help the saw run through the willow tree i was taking down.
on to the questions:

1. how do I set the max RPM's? I know I can adjust the "H" screw on the carb and crank it open until it eats itself I just want to make sure I am in a good balance of power and more importantly longevity. the manual states 1 1/4 turn for both and i found that 1 1/2 turns actually works better on the "L". for the top end, do you just listen to the saw and call it good? at one point I was a bit nervous because it was screaming in my hand so I dialed it back a bit. its at the 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 ish setting and it runs fine.

2. when do I need to bring the saw in for a pro to sharpen it? the chips were pretty decent sized and not saw dust so I think the chain is in good shape, but I also dont want to get too aggressive with the angles and wear the chain down faster than it should. I throw the file on it with the 30 degree guide every second tank and call it good. I read somewhere that I need a flat file for something and dont really understand the point of that as long as the sawdust isnt too small or too big.

3. when the tank is almost empty (to the point it has about 20 seconds left to run before it dies) it seems like the saw really wakes up and runs like a madman. the rpm's dont increase too much but the power is increased noticeably. am I missing something on the carb setup?

4. when you rip with the saw you get the silly string debris and sometimes it bogs down inside the sprocket cover. what can you do to avoid the log jam inside the cover, or is that just normal? I just shut it down and jam some twigs through the chute and get rid of the excess until the saw can clear itself


Like I said Im a rookie, and just learning how to use a saw, and have enough mechanical knowledge to be dangerous.

thanks
 
I have a couple of questions. I am a novice saw user and have a sorta new (to me) saw.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/180119.htm

the saw runs fine and I have a stihl sharpener that I run through the teeth every other tank and it really seemed to help the saw run through the willow tree i was taking down.
on to the questions:

1. how do I set the max RPM's? I know I can adjust the "H" screw on the carb and crank it open until it eats itself I just want to make sure I am in a good balance of power and more importantly longevity. the manual states 1 1/4 turn for both and i found that 1 1/2 turns actually works better on the "L". for the top end, do you just listen to the saw and call it good? at one point I was a bit nervous because it was screaming in my hand so I dialed it back a bit. its at the 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 ish setting and it runs fine.

2. when do I need to bring the saw in for a pro to sharpen it? the chips were pretty decent sized and not saw dust so I think the chain is in good shape, but I also dont want to get too aggressive with the angles and wear the chain down faster than it should. I throw the file on it with the 30 degree guide every second tank and call it good. I read somewhere that I need a flat file for something and dont really understand the point of that as long as the sawdust isnt too small or too big.

3. when the tank is almost empty (to the point it has about 20 seconds left to run before it dies) it seems like the saw really wakes up and runs like a madman. the rpm's dont increase too much but the power is increased noticeably. am I missing something on the carb setup?

4. when you rip with the saw you get the silly string debris and sometimes it bogs down inside the sprocket cover. what can you do to avoid the log jam inside the cover, or is that just normal? I just shut it down and jam some twigs through the chute and get rid of the excess until the saw can clear itself


Like I said Im a rookie, and just learning how to use a saw, and have enough mechanical knowledge to be dangerous.

thanks
Ear tuning isnt for everyone, takes a real good experienced ear. I have been cutting for 23+ years, and need help on some saw's, even a tach. The factory specs will get you in the ball park, and if the l is good at 1.5 leave it, you will be good. You want the h, to studder slighlty or 4cyle, almost a miss like sound. Dont hold the trottle wide open, to long without a load. If you have trouble keep it at factory setting, untill you get help. You can blow a saw fast. The chain if you are cutting well, then you are doing well and dont need a pro to sharpen it. This takes years to perfect anyway, and nobody is perfect. If you get good chips, and the saw is smooth, and cutting well leave it. You will know when the rakers need a flat file, and strokes, the chain will be sharp but it wont cut the same. Go to the saw shop, and get a raker gauge to gauge em so you dont over due it. If you do to much you will know it fast saw will get grabby, and stop the chain in wood alot. The running out of fuel part is normall all mine do that, it is starving for fuel, and starting to suck air, dont keep running it shut it off, and refuel. Otherwise it will run lean anytime you run lean you damage the piston, and cylinder. The long strips, or noodles while ripping is normall. Every so often flip the saw over, and clean out the chips. It happens to all saws while ripping. Good luck Norm.....
 
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