Getting serious about lo-pro

[mtngun]

Since the last update, the broke-then-mended lo-pro chain has been exercised a little more, and resharpened several times. It's definitely getting near the end of it's life, but I'll keep running it anyway, just to see how far I can take it.

When the teeth get this short, several problems arise.

For one thing, it seems to require more raker angle as the teeth wear. This morning I was running it with 8 degree raker angle, yet it didn't seem to want to bite. Since then I took the rakers down to 9 degrees, as shown in the picture, but haven't tested it in wood yet.

Another problem is that it's tough to bring the grinding wheel down far enough, without grinding on the top of the drive link. This is also true when hand filing. The tops of the drive links have been ground/filed a bit, and that could have contributed to the broken chain incident.

Look at this picture, and you'll think "there's no way it'll work with that raker angle." :msp_rolleyes:

 

[hamish]

.

Another problem is that it's tough to bring the grinding wheel down far enough, without grinding on the top of the drive link. This is also true when hand filing. The tops of the drive links have been ground/filed a bit, and that could have contributed to the broken chain incident.

Look at this picture, and you'll think "there's no way it'll work with that raker angle." :msp_rolleyes:

Dan,

Your using a super jolly grider correct? Get a 3/32" cut off wheel disk (non depressed center) and mount it in place of the stone. The edges of the disk do permit some shaping, and you should get right down without hitting the drive link.

That 9 degree raker angle will work..............if some people can cut wood with the chain running backwards a sharp 9 degree'er will cut like a crazy beaver with real sharp teeth.

Jeremy

 

[Philbert]

Since the last update, the broke-then-mended lo-pro chain has been exercised a little more, and resharpened several times. It's definitely getting near the end of it's life, but I'll keep running it anyway, just to see how far I can take it.

Almost ready to mount that one on your bicycle . . .

Philbert

 

[bigjohn1895]

hey all
after reading this thread for the 3rd time i thought i would tell my little secret im a chainsaw carver and run lo pro
on all my saws 45cc+ the bigest saw im running is a 84cc kita and i have removed all my chain adjusters after doing so i stopped breaking chains
when the chain catches somthing hard the bar will slide back into the saw and the chain is saved all my chains are used till the cutters start to get riped off the chain
on my kita i only use one bar nutt so the bar slides back easyer dont know if i need to or not but i feel better that way

 

[hamish]

hey all
after reading this thread for the 3rd time i thought i would tell my little secret im a chainsaw carver and run lo pro
on all my saws 45cc+ the bigest saw im running is a 84cc kita and i have removed all my chain adjusters after doing so i stopped breaking chains
when the chain catches somthing hard the bar will slide back into the saw and the chain is saved all my chains are used till the cutters start to get riped off the chain
on my kita i only use one bar nutt so the bar slides back easyer dont know if i need to or not but i feel better that way

Care to elaborate how the chain is saved the chain is thrown off the bar and impacted on the chain catcher and saw, not to mention potentially your body?

Chains thrown from a broken link are in most cases in much better shape than those thrown as a loop.

 

[mtngun]

This lo-pro chain is being retired because about half of the cutters have broke off. This is the chain that broke a drive link a while back, was repaired, and placed back into service. It's been resharpened about 4 times since the repair.

It spent most of its life as a 36" chain on an 066, then was shortened to 24" and powered by a ported 84cc Dolkita.

 

[Philbert]

This lo-pro chain is being retired because about half of the cutters have broke off. This is the chain that broke a drive link a while back, was repaired, and placed back into service.

R.I.P. after a long life of service, valiant chain!

 

[gemniii]

This lo-pro chain is being retired because about half of the cutters have broke off. This is the chain that broke a drive link a while back, was repaired, and placed back into service. It's been resharpened about 4 times since the repair.

It spent most of its life as a 36" chain on an 066, then was shortened to 24" and powered by a ported 84cc Dolkita.

RETIRED?
That chain has no rakers or cutters to speak of! Kill it and bury it!

 

[Philbert]

RETIRED?
That chain has no rakers or cutters to speak of! Kill it and bury it!

Don't be so rash - Mtngun could still turn it over and scratch through the wood with the drive links . . .

 

[sachsmo]

Since the last update, the broke-then-mended lo-pro chain has been exercised a little more, and resharpened several times. It's definitely getting near the end of it's life, but I'll keep running it anyway, just to see how far I can take it.

When the teeth get this short, several problems arise.

For one thing, it seems to require more raker angle as the teeth wear. This morning I was running it with 8 degree raker angle, yet it didn't seem to want to bite. Since then I took the rakers down to 9 degrees, as shown in the picture, but haven't tested it in wood yet.

Another problem is that it's tough to bring the grinding wheel down far enough, without grinding on the top of the drive link. This is also true when hand filing. The tops of the drive links have been ground/filed a bit, and that could have contributed to the broken chain incident.

Look at this picture, and you'll think "there's no way it'll work with that raker angle." :msp_rolleyes:

No wonder the little teeth broke off, raker angle? I don't see no stinkin' rakers.

 

[mtngun]

No wonder the little teeth broke off, raker angle? I don't see no stinkin' rakers.

As pictured, it was a little too grabby at the start of the cut, but worked fine once the bar was buried.

 

[sachsmo]

You ARE the Eco-Logger.

Bet she cut pretty fast eh?

 

[mad murdock]

Any further updates on this mtngun? I have been checking out Bailey's offering of Logosol branded Stihl .050 milling bars and the picco chain to use with my CSM setup, and am intrigued by all your testing. I have been using the 3/8 Woodland Pro ripping chain, but can definately see the advantages to using picco with my setup. I am at the point where I need a new bar anyways for milling, and am seriously thinking about buying the B/C setup for the smaller chain to run on my 372XP powered mill. I do mill as well with my 075AV Stihl, equipped with .404 full skip chain, it is a beast in breaking the logs down quickly, but more recovery and less waste appeal to me as well. I will probably just outfit the Husky with the lopro setup, and leave the sthl alone. The guys at Bailey's told me that the bar will fit the Husky, as will the drive rim, so I think I will try it. I like the sound of 20-25% increase in milling speed too. Thank you for all your excellent lab testing and reporting on this subject for all of us poor old CSM'ers on here!

 

[mtngun]

Any further updates on this mtngun? I have been checking out Bailey's offering of Logosol branded Stihl .050 milling bars and the picco chain to use with my CSM setup

Nothing new on my end.

I personally would use Woodland Pro lo-pro chain for half the cost of Stihl chain.

 

[srcarr52]

I just recently switch from a lo-pro setup on a 32" bar to a 36". I found a new old stock 36" Oregon bar in 0.050 and I now have almost 31 inch of usable cut when mounted on my 394XP. I've been using some Carlton chain but when I have to buy more I'll probably go with the Woodland Pro or the Oregon long cutter stuff and grind it the way I want it. I've been using a 5/45/0 grind and setting the rakers with a file-o-plate then -0.010". It's probably not as aggressive at mtngun's chains but they'll still grab very hard in a knot and pull down a ported 394XP with an 8 pin on it. I've found that the lo-pro chain holds up longer on the grind then regular 3/8. I got 60+ 10' cuts in a spruce with one chain last year until I hit a two screws, it kept cutting pretty fast but it wouldn't cut straight anymore.

Here is a picture of me cutting some cedar at the Iowa GTG.

 

[Mad Professor]

Hi Folks,

Long time since I've been on this thread. Have had health and personal issues which have kept me away from the 066/logosol mill, in fact recovering from a surgery now..

Concerning sharpening Stihl picco chain, I've always used a Pferd file setup that takes down the rakers at the same time. Like Mt Gun I run my chains until the first cutter breaks off, but using the Pferd file I still have rakers left when the chain is wore out from sharpening, and the chain still cuts great. I keep the angles the same as they come on the PMX picco chain. I've not tried the Woodland lo pro milling chain but suspect the Pferd file would work well on it too.

Has anyone here used the picco/lo pro pin drive rim sprockets from Danzco? I purchased a lot of those in 7 pin for the 066 and have yet to use them.

I'm hoping I'm well before the cherry logs I have start to rot.........I want to see if the DP muffler wakes up the 066 and give the Danzco sprockets a good testing.

Happy Milling

MP

 

[BobL]

Concerning sharpening Stihl picco chain, I've always used a Pferd file setup that takes down the rakers at the same time.

I can't tell from the diagrams of those things whether they progressively alter the raker depth with cutter length. Whether they do or not, given there is only one tool available for each chain size my guess like File-o-plates and the husky versions they will err on the side of conservatism and won't give sufficient raker angle to provide optimum cutting speed. Besides it is useful to be able to vary the raker angle and with cutting needs. Higher angles for softer narrower woods and lower for harder and wider.

 

[Mad Professor]

The rakers get maintained at a constant height/depth as you sharpen, relative to the cutters.

After several sharpenings the top of the rakers will start to become flat, before the next sharpening I dress the front of the rakers with a file . More of a radius , like a new chain, rather than a flat angle to the cutters. This is the same I do with my crosscut chains, after filing/grinding down the rakers to proper depth/height.

The Pferd seems to give a good raker depth for my milling with PMX chain, 16-24" bars, 7-pin driver, 066 stihl, in hardwoods (ash, cherry, oak, maple). I might take them down a bit more if I was milling pine/conifers.

I have been hand filing my chains for > 35 years and can do my crosscut chains with just a file without any sort of guide.

For the mill things are a bit more consistent using the Pferd. I plan on buying a 2nd Pferd so I do not have to flip the files when filing cutters on different sides of the chain.

 

[BobL]

The rakers get maintained at a constant height/depth as you sharpen, relative to the cutters.

If that is the case it won't be progressive. I had another look at the Pferd jig and my reading of it is that it works similar to the file-o-plate - which is . . . . er . . . semi-porogressive.

I wouldn't mind seeing a close up picture of it from above and an angle short from the side.

Thanks
Bob

 

[Mad Professor]

Bob,

As soon as I'm back on my feet I'll take some pictures of the Pferd and some of my "worn out" chains so you can see what the rakers/cutters look like when the first cutter finally snaps off.

Will also post some pictures of the Danzco 7-pin pin drive picco sprockets .

(Might take a week or two)

MP