Good trick?

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MasterBlaster

MasterBlaster

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Or bad trick? :alien:

Yesterday while aloft, the chain of my 200 popped off. I said "#$%@@^," and proceeded to send the saw down. The groundie couldn't get the chain to turn, once he re-set it. Evidently, the drive links had been damaged.
Another groundie came over, messed with it, and fixed it. I was 100 feet away, so I couldn't see what he did.

I realize when the drive links have been damaged like that, you gotta file out the burred-up ones. This guy said what he does when that happens is let the chain run loose and let the bar/sprocket work-out the burrs. Then re-adjust the chain. I've never done that, and to be honest I've never even thought of it, but it worked. My question...

Does this "in the field" repair hurt the bar or sprocket any amount to worry over?
 
jokers

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Jeez Butch, my gut feeling would be that it would hog out the bar more than anything. It might be worth it if you didn`t have another chain handy and you wanted to finish the job but I wouldn`t consider a good maintenance practice.

Russ
 
Dadatwins

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Think it depends on bad the burr is MB. I have done it many times myself with smaller burrs as a quick fix, but I think any drive links that are twisted bad or burred badly should be filed down first.
 
Crofter

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Its going to tear up a fair bit of metal from inside the groove before it irons out the problem in the chain. Also I would like to find the distorted area and make sure there was no cracked parts. I have never had a chain wrap around my hand but knew a fellow with a pretty ugly scar on the face from a broken chain. In other words you might get away with it but don't think thats the best move.
 
Redbull

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Although it's prolly not the best solution, that was common practice on the crew I worked with at the Big Orange Squeeze. Of course, we didn't have to pay for our equipment either.
 
Hunter

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Butch,
I have also done that in a pinch, but usually keep 5 or 6 extra chains with me and just switch it out. Are you using the .050 chain?
Hunter
 
MasterBlaster

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Redbull said:
Although it's prolly not the best solution, that was common practice on the crew I worked with at the Big Orange Squeeze. Of course, we didn't have to pay for our equipment either.


That's about whut I was guessing the mindset was. It's a good quick fix if that's your only saw, I suppose.
 
Gypo Logger

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Hi Butch, I do that all the time, but it depends on how badly burred it is. It won't hurt the bar at all, but there is the possibility of one of the drivers jamming in the bar groove and snapping the crank.
John
 
Stumper

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It works pretty well if there is only a small ding or two in the drivers or a slightly tweaked link. Best practice? Perhaps not but if a burr isn't obvious in a quick visual inspection it works and doesn't seem to adversely effect bar life.
 
Gypo Logger

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NeTree said:
That was just stupid. Either file it, or switch chains. :rolleyes:

Another one for the good groundman thingie.
Erik, it actually works slick if done correctly. The saw should be on the ground with the chain really loose. Then when the saw is goosed full throttle everything blends in. If the drivers are to far gone and jam in the bar then it is best to discard the chain. Excessively damaged drivers are a result of a chain throw and the operator still leaning on the throttle.
john
 
NeTree

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...and this one time... at band camp...



In a pinch, sure... but why wouldn't ya have a file? Or a spare chain? Sheesh... chainsaw 101 here!
 
MasterBlaster

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Actually, I'm pretty sure the driver damage was at a minimum. So, in this case, I think the groundie made a good call. There was no other chain available. I just wanted a 'lil AS feedback, especially from the Beloved ChainSaw Forum. ;)
 
Gypo Logger

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LJS said:
Times Money! when your hanging in a tree. Spin that chain on the bar and go for it! LJS
LJS and John, sometimes I will simply flex the bar and work the chain over the tip after a chain throw if a bar wrench isn't close by, but it works best on bars over 30".
John
 
pbtree

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It sounds like it would work for minor damage, but I feel that swapping the chain out is the best bet. It does not take that much time, and seems like cheap insurance against damaging equipment of ones self...
 
glens

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I try to not get in such a hurry that I don't take the time to run the drivers through my thumb/fingertip bent/nicked gauge, and then remove any anomalies with a file before I re-install the chain.  Life's too short to be wasting good working time by needlessly throwing the earnings away on replacement equipment.  I'd much rather waste the money on other things.
 

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