Got a new saw... Break in?

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81Bronk36

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I just picked up a new saw today (576XP) and I want this thing to last so I was wondering what I need to do to break it in (and things not to do of course) Of course I will let it warm up before I romp on it and idle down before I shut it off but other then that I am lost.
 
I run Stihl 50:1 with 93 in all my other stuff, I got it in 2 separate jugs so I could add a splash of oil to one of them to richen it up.

And I upgraded from a 20 to a 28:cheers:
 
I run Stihl 50:1 with 93 in all my other stuff, I got it in 2 separate jugs so I could add a splash of oil to one of them to richen it up.

And I upgraded from a 20 to a 28:cheers:

Thats fine to , I just prefer 40-1 . Main thing is to just make sure saw is tuned correctly a little rich = maybe a little smoke
a little lean= maybe a new saw
 
Welcome to the site. :agree2: with the others run her a little rich for a couple of tanks. Then I run all mine like they are going to live. Hard and running 50:1 Huskey or STIHL oil in 100AV fuel. If it's going to make it here it's got to earn it's way. So while the paper work is still drying see if it's going to go or blow. Just me.
 
Avoid sustained high RPM low to no load cuts...ie don't limb 1/4" branches at full rpm for 30 minutes and you'll be a'ight.

Run normal mix, maybe a little on the rich side with the gas to oil mix ratio. Make sure you're four stroking (even a little in the cut).

And then just go. Absolutely no half throttle bs to "keep it cool." worst thing you can do. FULL THROTTLE, FULL WORKLOAD
 
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run it for 15 mins or so with load variation (heat cycle), keep the idle time to a minimum, shut off and let it cool down. do this 2 or 3 times then dont look back. this seems to be pretty much standard with modern high performance engines.
 
I run 20" & 24" on it. Had 24" burried in oak and things were fine. Absolutely nuts with a 20" bar and sharp chisel... I have a 36" for the 3120, and while it weighs a ton, if i'm straight bucking 30" plus I'll just use that rather than coming at both sides with the 576. From what I've observed you will not have trouble pulling 28" full comp, especially once broken in.
 
Thats sweet. My last saw was a 97' 45 model lasted me about 10 years then I sold it thinking I was gonna buy a bigger saw... finally about 2 years later I got it. I was gonna do a 372, or even smaller if they had one, but this and a 395 where the only 2 high end saws the dealer had left. I am thinking of getting an 18" as well but my first job is over 24" across

BTW that old 45 is still running strong.
 
For me the 20" is perfect because cutting CT firewood permit wood basically the biggest thing they'll give you is a 20" or maybe a 24" tree here and there, so with a 20" you can even the big stuff with reasonable ease and fly through the small stuff like it's absolutely nothing...

The saw is definitely a little less nimble than a 372xp; however, I feel like it can definitely hold a larger bar a little bit better, both in the balance and in the powerband department.
 
Also did yours come .050 or .058? Mine came 058 but I changed it out to an 050 just so I can buy all chain easily (stihl, oregon, carlton, etc). 058 availability seems to vary by region a lot.
 
Avoid sustained high RPM low to no load cuts...ie don't limb 1/4" branches at full rpm for 30 minutes and you'll be a'ight.

Run normal mix, maybe a little on the rich side with the gas to oil mix ratio. Make sure you're four stroking (even a little in the cut).

And then just go. Absolutely no half throttle bs to "keep it cool." worst thing you can do. FULL THROTTLE, FULL WORKLOAD

I agree, avoid no load full RPMs for a few tanks. In the wood, full throttle. Dunno if it's a huge deal but I've always heard that and adhered to it, if I'm going to buy nice saws I can't afford to abuse them. I just bought a 346xp, and a kid took it out back to put fuel and bar oil in. I'd just have soon he left it alone, but he said they were required to start it to make sure there were no problems before it left the store. Fine.

So he starts the saw, idle sounds good. Then he pins the trigger. OK, I thought, he's making sure it's not too lean, I can hear the harmonic from 4-stroking. But he holds it. And holds it. A second or two after I figured this had gone on long enough I tap him on the shoulder and motion for him to cut it. I said please not to hold my new saw wide open like that. He said that he has to to make sure the oiler is working, and switches it back to start it again. I said it looked like it was working to me but if the oiler didn't work I'd bring it back, and it was my saw now and he didn't have my permission to start it again. He handed it over and stomped off.

I wouldn't argue with anybody who says that no harm was done, but guess where I'm never buying another saw?

Jack
 
I see two of you guys have the 576xp on here. What prompted you to get it over the 372xp? Have you guys ever compared the two? I am have a372 on hold at the local saw shop so I am curious. Thanks
 
I see two of you guys have the 576xp on here. What prompted you to get it over the 372xp? Have you guys ever compared the two? I am have a372 on hold at the local saw shop so I am curious. Thanks
Like I stated they were out of 372's or i would have just bought that one. The comparison I noticed was the 372 was more expensive, less CC's, did weigh a lb less, and is only recommended for a 28" bar as opposed to a 576's 32. Also the guy said the 576 had a bigger air cleaner then the 372...its huge. The 576 is supposed to have a lot of torque and thats why it can handle more chain then the 385 and 390.

Fixed the sig issue!
 
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