500i or 462 for processor?

[woodfarmer]

Once I make a cut it can take 45 sec. To 1.5 mins between cuts.
sometimes I shut the saws off other times let them idle.
when I have to grab another log I shut the saw off.
Which saw would be better for this process, the fuelie or mtronic?
**** them down or let them idle?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Once I make a cut it can take 45 sec. To 1.5 mins between cuts.
sometimes I shut the saws off other times let them idle.
when I have to grab another log I shut the saw off.
Which saw would be better for this process, the fuelie or mtronic?
**** them down or let them idle?
View attachment 1140012

A processor without its own saw? What’s the point?

 

[Chevboy0167]

2 evils here..... your choice to pick the lesser.

Let it idle = more wear on moving engine parts, carbon build up, waste fuel= repairs add up.

Shut down= more wear on recoil and associated parts for re-starts, more wear on kill switch, more wear on human body parts to start= cheaper than buying the above parts and please have good health insurance! LOL

Depending on wood size, just maybe, going big cordless. Downside is initial cost and battery replacement. But it will save the wear on ur gas saws.... food for thought......maybe.

They have an 82V commercial saw coming out in 2024. Definitely not cheap but may have the beans for bigger wood?

https://www.greenworkstools.com/collections/chainsaws

 

[Pjohnson]

One thing i keep reading on these new saws is its best to let them idle a bit after a cut to let them adjust to idle conditions. If you don't they claim the saw is adjusted to high speed and will be hard to start after a quick shutdown. I don't have enough time running my 500 to verify this but I like to let it idle a bit. Watching lots of you tube videos there doesn't appear to be much of a speed advantage to the 500i with shorter bars. The 462 stands up pretty close to the 500 in speed tests. A lot of guys complain the 500 burns more fuel, if you search for epa fuel consumption data for 462 and 500 the 462 uses quite a bit less fuel. As long as the saw is mounted and weight isn't an issue the 661 is about the same price as 500i and faster then both 500i and 462 if speed is what your after.

 

[OM617YOTA]

2 evils here..... your choice to pick the lesser.

Let it idle = more wear on moving engine parts, carbon build up, waste fuel= repairs add up.

Shut down= more wear on recoil and associated parts for re-starts, more wear on kill switch, more wear on human body parts to start= cheaper than buying the above parts and please have good health insurance! LOL

Depending on wood size, just maybe, going big cordless. Downside is initial cost and battery replacement. But it will save the wear on ur gas saws.... food for thought......maybe.

They have an 82V commercial saw coming out in 2024. Definitely not cheap but may have the beans for bigger wood?

https://www.greenworkstools.com/collections/chainsaws

Was leaning this way too, lots of idle time is exactly the perfect usage case for an electric saw.

Depending on what electrical system the processor has or could be upgraded to, I'd lean towards a big power inverter and a quality corded saw before a battery saw. This would allow using other 120v tools as well.

Maybe a hydraulic saw, run off the splitter hydraulics. Suspect that would cost a lot more than going the electric route, even if an alternator has to be added to the splitter engine.

 

[woodfarmer]

A processor without its own saw? What’s the point?

Because it wasn’t $40k

 

[Mad3400]

I would say, let it idle, maybe shut it down every 3-4 logs.

If you're making money with your equipment, you shouldn't worry about the wear&tear because you're going to be wearing parts more often and the whole point of "Pro-Grade" equipment, besides more power, is efficiency and simplicity to Service & Repair in the field, when you're getting a job done.

As well, chainsaws and other small equipment pay off for themselves rather quickly if you know what you're doing and should be able to afford a new higher end saw or small equipment at any given time.

If you're doing this just for yourself, I would sell one of the Stihls and invest that money into 1 or 2 cheaper similar displacement options that won't hurt your wallet with the kind of wear&tear your situation causes.

Mad3400

 

[stihltech]

This is 661 land. From experience. Definitely not 500i.

 

[woodfarmer]

Stihltech, care to explain. I was hoping to hear from someone with a more technical background like yourself.

 

[Mad3400]

This is 661 land. From experience. Definitely not 500i.

For Idling?

Mad3400

 

[Dennisthemenace]

What are you cutting? I wouldn't use a stock 462 for sizable hard wood

 

[stihltech]

This is where I have seen failures in the shop. You need torque on a processor. This is why many use hydraulic drive. Plus you don't need to start and stop a saw.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Pretty sure he's just using the saw by hand, and it's not a hydraulic cylinder forcing the saw into the wood. Just a normal saw should work fine.

 

[woodfarmer]

Yes it’s by hand.

 

[lone wolf]

This is 661 land. From experience. Definitely not 500i.

The bigger and more heavy duty, the better for this application.

 

[stihltech]

OK I missed where you had no saw connected to the processor. Never saw a processor like that around here. Just me, but kind of defeats the purpose.
Either saw will be fine.
If it is big logs with a long bar, I still recommend a 661. You are going for torque still.
If a 20 inch bar will reach, 462. If longer, back to 661.
These recommendations are for hardwood, as I assume you are not processing softwood.
All that starting and stopping may be an issue. It will have to idle well.

 

[OM617YOTA]

I looked up the Wallenstein processor. Looks like 16" is the biggest it'll handle? If that's it, then 362/400 would be fine, and even a 261 wouldn't be terribly under gunned. There are definitely electric options that would handle that, as well.

 

[woodfarmer]

I’ve run 500i, 462, 2171 and a 2165 on it. 24” bar on the stihls and 22” on the Jreds.
Anything over 10” and I use the stihls.

 

[muddy42]

Personally Id stick to a petrol saw and let it idle. Id also maybe think of some kind of an elevated wooden table that the saw can sit on between cuts, to avoid too much bending over. It would be nice if this table was curved to stop the saw vibrating off nor the need to put the chain brake on/off, which would otherwise definitely receive some wear. A large older saw with an adjustable carburetor would probably put up better with this abuse than Mtronic.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

I’ve run 500i, 462, 2171 and a 2165 on it. 24” bar on the stihls and 22” on the Jreds.
Anything over 10” and I use the stihls.

I assumed the saw mounts on a pivot to carry the weight, but I've never put eyes on one. From my experience, 60-70 years old, I cut 100" hardwood on two manual log decks. One on each side of a SuperSplit, using a conveyor. I used a nursery wagon for fuel, oil, set saws on/starting, etc. The process was cut a log on each side, 12 pieces, shut saw down. Split 6 pieces, roll next log into position, split other side, roll log into position. Start saw, repeat, every two logs. Sharpen at first sign the saw doesn't self feed, doesn't drop through cut on its own. I used a 357XP, 562XP, MS661, and a 500i.
--Favorite, 357 followed by 562.
Reason is hand starting and weight. Heavier saw self feeds better, but self feed is self feeding.
--The MS661 and 500i after a four hour day would wear on my shoulder.
--The previous stated idling before shut-off I found to be true with all the saws.
--You can buy another saw, or have two incase one gives you issues. A shoulder recovers, until you do it again. Then it remembers...
I wouldn't worry about the saws, or which whatever. Work ergonomically. That's my personal take, but for many years I have not been using saws the way most people cut. (Old photo. I mounted a bench vise on quad for quick easy hand sharpening.)