Got some questions about using rope - 9/16"stable braid rigging line...

[pondnstream]

Hi Fellas,

A few weeks back I bought this beautiful piece of stable braid rope 150' long and 13,000lbs breaking strength and even got a loop spliced in one end. Its really great and it enables me to do lots of things I couldn't do safely before such as pull down hangers from a safe distance.

So my questions:

- whats a good way to make a knot that is easy to untie after being pulled on with lots of
force, I find that the knots get real hard and tough to untie after using the come-along and
a snatch block.

- should I avoid pulling directly on this rope with the hook in the come along, can it take the point load. How about that $25 spliced loop I got on the end can that be pulled on directly with the come-along hook?

- I was going to cut off a 50' piece that is shorter and lighter and easier to use, can you just melt the ends of this rope to seal it and keep it from unraveling ?

- Finally , what are the things to avoid doing that will ruin this rope?

View attachment 271554View attachment 271555

Thanks ,

tim

 

[ronnyb]

Don't use it for natural crotch rigging, use a block or pulley.

 

[Pelorus]

I would NOT recommend an Alpine butterfly for a midline knot if the rope is gonna get pulled hard. Unless you like using a screwdriver to undo it when it jams tight. (Don't ask me how I know that, lol, and it was tied and dressed correctly.) Learn to tie a bowline on a bight

 

[Pelorus]

For cutting rope I like to use a couple of wraps of decent black electrical tape like Scotch 700, and then slice through it with an old knife heated up with a propane torch. Wife prefers that this gets done outside for some reason.
If you don't need the full 150 length, or that spliced eye, mebbe consider lopping just 15' off the end (with the eye), which will give you a rigging sling to attach (timber hich / cow hitch / running bowline) to a tree for your come-a-long / winch / block.
Learn yourself some knots cause you have a decent and expensive rope that deserves to be treated respectfully.

 

[pondnstream]

Thanks a lot for your answers, I've been looking at how to tie the various knots , now just got to practice and memorize them .

Will think about how to cut it and make it a little more convenient to use, but just having it really extends what I can do with my limited tools.

The more-power puller now has 150' of reach and with the snatch block , up to 8000lbs of pull , defniatly an improvement .

thanks .

Tim

 

[pondnstream]

OK, so I've learned to tie the bowline and bowline on a bight , and its pretty clear that either of those makes a good strong look thats easy to untie.

So, I guess I wasted my money on a spliced loop at the end.

Now, suppose that I have a 100' of rope and I want to make a 30' length of double line with a loop on each end.
On one end , I put a bowline on a bight and that makes a nice strong loop .
But doubled up , the rope is 50' long and I need just 30' (just an example) so I have extra rope but I want to make a nice strong, easy to untie, double loop knot. Is the standard field practice to make another bowline on a bight and just carry the extra line into the knot. I did this and it seems to work pretty well and is plenty strong and easy to untie. Or , is there a better knot for this purpose?

Thx

Tim

 

[mortenh]

I would NOT recommend an Alpine butterfly for a midline knot if the rope is gonna get pulled hard. Unless you like using a screwdriver to undo it when it jams tight. (Don't ask me how I know that, lol, and it was tied and dressed correctly.) Learn to tie a bowline on a bight

A bowline knot and a bowline on a bight will also jam up when you put a lot of force on it.

You can prevent this by putting a carabiner (or something else) between the standing part and the loop (se pictures).

View attachment 273212

View attachment 273213

 

[pondnstream]

Thats a good idea, I'd thought somehow putting something in the knot that could be easily removed when finished , would create just enough space to permit untying. But, I couldn't figure how to do this, thanks for the idea.

t

 

[Customcuts]

 

[2treeornot2tree]

[url]http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=273493&d=1358215175]I[/url] agree with the eye sling comments, cut the end off with the eye splice and use it as a rigging sling to attach a porta-wrap or as an anchor point with a cows hitch. I recently started splicing my own rope and its awesome, a lot more convenient when rigging wood. (knotless rigging) using rigging loop slings then hook a biner to the spliced eye and BAM! Makes it easier on a green groundie too. Just don't do that with big wood. And yes try not to natural crotch it.. I've used a 6 wrap prussic on 9/16ths stable braid to pull with a come-along with success it gets real tight but it comes undone fairly easy[]]I agree with the eye sling comments, cut the end off with the eye splice and use it as a rigging sling to attach a porta-wrap or as an anchor point with a cows hitch. I recently started splicing my own rope and its awesome, a lot more convenient when rigging wood. (knotless rigging) using rigging loop slings then hook a biner to the spliced eye and BAM! Makes it easier on a green groundie too. Just don't do that with big wood. And yes try not to natural crotch it.. I've used a 6 wrap prussic on 9/16ths stable braid to pull with a come-along with success it gets real tight but it comes undone fairly easy[/QUOTE]

Your whipping looks to be a little bit short there! It should be whipped more length wise.

 

[Customcuts]

Your whipping looks to be a little bit short there! It should be whipped more length wise.

Hey, is there really an Amish mafia out there in Lancaster pa? Or really a big Amish community? Sorry for derail but I noticed where u were from and thought is ask.. yeah, the whipping is a little short but this was the first splice I did and actually whipped. I hadn't whipped the other 2.

 

[Pelorus]

A stop at the Shady Maple restaurant is high on my priority list when in the Lancaster vicinity. . Not sorry for derail, cause that place is terrific!

 

[TreeGuyHR]

You might get an over-sized clevis ("U" shaped piece of steel with a short rod that screws through the open end to close it).

I bought a used one at a surplus store for around $20 that is made out of about inch thick steel. That way the steel is as thick or thicker than any ropes I have (I have a bunch of 7/8 stable braid, 28,000 lb). The rod just barely fits through the hook on my winch; you have to unscrew it from the clevis and slip it through the hook first in order to attach it to the winch cable. I do get comments about the SIZE of the clevis.

It's probably about right for crane end tackle:msp_rolleyes: But I feel good about my rope --- I would really cringe seeing someone put the hook of a winch through an end knot -- the width of the usual winch hook is only about a half inch, and is kind of oval in cross section, so in effect you are bending a rope over a quarter inch wide edge Bad.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

Hey, is there really an Amish mafia out there in Lancaster pa? Or really a big Amish community? Sorry for derail but I noticed where u were from and thought is ask.. yeah, the whipping is a little short but this was the first splice I did and actually whipped. I hadn't whipped the other 2.

There isnt no real amish mafia, at least that i am aware of. There is a big population of amish around here. The guy that does my milling for me is amish, i alway joke around with him. When i call him, i always ask if this is the amish mafia when he picks up. He started to play along now, so i just say ya over and over.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

A stop at the Shady Maple restaurant is high on my priority list when in the Lancaster vicinity. . Not sorry for derail, cause that place is terrific!

I should start selling maps of where the amish mafia lives, like they do for the movie stars. Let me know when your going to shady maple, its so nice of you to buy me lunch. lol.

 

[2dogs]

I would not cut your rope! The spliced eye is great because it retains much more of the rope strength compared to a knot. The bowline is a very poor knot to use on Stable Braid because you will lose up to 50% of the rope strength. However it is also the best knot to use because it is the only knot you "may" be able to untie after a heavy load. I use "toggles" in the knot, that is short sticks I can break, several sometimes, to make the knot easier to untie. I also have a smooth tapered pin with a short lanyard that I can pull out. The lanyard is tied near the knot with a larks' foot.

When ever you can, try not to tie a hard knot. Several wraps and a slip knot with a safety works well and can be untied easily. Add a 6-8 inch marlin spike to help you untie jammed knots. Always have a sharp knife and a roll of electrical tape in the tool box too.

Look at Wesspur's site under clearance and buy a few short pieces of your rope for misc rigging issues. As far as slings go I would go up a size or two as long as it fits in your block properly.

 

[Pelorus]

Ropes will break at their weakest point, which most often is NOT at the knot! And you shouldn't be stressing a rope to anywhere near it's rated strength anyway. I have rarely (never?) had a rope fail at a bowline knot, and the bowline is one knot I use a lot.

Hoping to enjoy the Shady Maple sometime between Christmas and New Years Day, Jared!

 

[2treeornot2tree]

Ropes will break at their weakest point, which most often is NOT at the knot! And you shouldn't be stressing a rope to anywhere near it's rated strength anyway. I have rarely (never?) had a rope fail at a bowline knot, and the bowline is one knot I use a lot.

Hoping to enjoy the Shady Maple sometime between Christmas and New Years Day, Jared!

The Amish mafia will probably get me before then.

 

[Pelorus]

I'll ask Ricky to lift the hit order. As a professional courtesy.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

I'll ask Ricky to lift the hit order. As a professional courtesy.

Is he outta jail yet? :hmm3grin2orange: