Great $60 Stihl 066, need advice...

[JivaGo]

It seems as if I've fallen into a spectacular deal on a Stihl 066. A local dealer had it as a parts saw, and sold it to me for $60. It's complete but for the clutch cover and no bar/chain. So far I've only found that the chain adjustment pin is missing (the pin that goes into the bar).

It was diagnosed as needing a new carb and a worn out piston/cylinder, so the customer bought a new saw. When I pulled the muffler, the cylinder looked amazingly good with almost no discernible scoring. I can still see the machining marks on the piston and cylinder portions that I can see. Both my 018 and 260 look awful in comparison.

So I'm going to give it a good cleaning, and try two phases: 1) Get it running cheaply and quickly, and 2) do some mods and future proofing.

Questions:

1) How do I look up the year of birth and the piston/cylinder size? I have the serial.

2) Despite the cleanliness of the piston/cylinder, the top of the cylinder is coated with carbon or whatever. Should I pull the cylinder to clean it? Other methods to do that? Or leave well enough alone...

3) Should I buy a new aftermarket carb or rebuild the original Wolbro WJ48 (B6). I've never rebuilt a small carb, but I'm very technical. With an eye towards Phase 2, I plan to put in an .074 jet into it. Would a Zama carb use the same system (the jet in this case), or is it internally different? Would an aftermarket rebuild kit be fine for the Walbro?

4) The existing air filter is junk, is there a better (but modestly priced) air filter system (for phase 2 maybe)? Should I just get a regular replacement?

5) Going to replace the various gas and oil hoses/filters. Are the aftermarket parts OK?

6) A dual port muffler cover (phase two after I get it running)

7) Future proofing: Are seals and bearings easy to replace? Do I need to split the case? How about just the seals if the bearings show no signs of problems?

8) How does the clutch needle bearings get lubed? Should I lube them and with what?

What else might I do to it while the doing is good?

Thanks...

JivaGo

 

[bryanr2]

that's a "You Suck" score for sure! (that's a good thing on AS... not an insult)

 

[JivaGo]

that's a "You Suck" score for sure! (that's a good thing on AS... not an insult)

Yup, seems like a sweet deal...

 

[jeff taswelder]

you SUCK
I got opcorn:opcorn:

 

[splitpost]

Well if it was mine i would tear it down and check it over good ,replacing all parts where needed ,i'd stay oem with any bearings and hoses,seals,etc,if it needs a piston or rings go with a meteor piston and caber rings ,sounds like a score ,good luck and enjoy

 

[Chris_In_VT]

Questions:

1) How do I look up the year of birth and the piston/cylinder size? I have the serial.

2) Despite the cleanliness of the piston/cylinder, the top of the cylinder is coated with carbon or whatever. Should I pull the cylinder to clean it? Other methods to do that? Or leave well enough alone...

3) Should I buy a new aftermarket carb or rebuild the original Wolbro WJ48 (B6). I've never rebuilt a small carb, but I'm very technical. With an eye towards Phase 2, I plan to put in an .074 jet into it. Would a Zama carb use the same system (the jet in this case), or is it internally different? Would an aftermarket rebuild kit be fine for the Walbro?

4) The existing air filter is junk, is there a better (but modestly priced) air filter system (for phase 2 maybe)? Should I just get a regular replacement?

5) Going to replace the various gas and oil hoses/filters. Are the aftermarket parts OK?

6) A dual port muffler cover (phase two after I get it running)

7) Future proofing: Are seals and bearings easy to replace? Do I need to split the case? How about just the seals if the bearings show no signs of problems?

8) How does the clutch needle bearings get lubed? Should I lube them and with what?

What else might I do to it while the doing is good?

Thanks...

JivaGo

Answers-

1) I don't know Not a Stihl guy...

2) Up to you. If you're going through the saw, might as well.

3) Rebuild the original. Rebuilding saw carbs is really not that hard to do. You might be surprised how easy it is actually. No idea on the jet\zama question. Maybe some 066 guys have more knowledge on this, if there is a better carb available or not?

4) Probably ought to get a Stihl filter here. They do have a HD filter available, but I don't believe it flows more for better power, it's more for dirty conditions, filters better. Saws aren't like cars, "cold air intakes" and the like aren't really for saws.

5) I've never had a problem buying aftermarket fuel lines and filters. OEM Stihl parts are pricey, if you didn't already know.

6) Most definitely. Or do your own muffler mod, enlarge the existing outlet, add another port, etc. Any of these, including the DP cover, will require you to re-tune the carb.

7) Seals you can do fairly easily. Still need to remove the flywheel and the clutch. Bearings, you need to split the case. If they look ok and there's no play in them, I'd run them. Definitely do seals though.

8) Grease. Not sure on that Stihl but on my Husqvarnas, there is a spot on the end of the crank you can put grease into and it will get grease to the bearing. Otherwise, put a little on the bearing and go. Don't need alot of grease here!

Other things to do- generally clean the saw up (i'm sure you were going to) but make sure the cylinder fins are clean, make sure there's no loose bolts anywhere, make sure everything functions as it should. Also, being a parts saw, be very careful to check that everything is there. The saw might have had one bolt robbed off it, or some little part that you might not notice, etc. etc. An IPL (integrated parts list) would be helpful here.

Good luck, and nice score!

 

[mdavlee]

OEM fuel lines fit better. Rebuild the car and stay away from the China replacement if you want to mod it later. Max flow kit is $50 from Madsens or the same price some dealers charge for the HD 2 air filter. The serial number will tell when it was sold. Other than that not much help. Does the cylinder have a decomp?

 

[nstueve]

It seems as if I've fallen into a spectacular deal on a Stihl 066. A local dealer had it as a parts saw, and sold it to me for $60. It's complete but for the clutch cover and no bar/chain. So far I've only found that the chain adjustment pin is missing (the pin that goes into the bar).

It was diagnosed as needing a new carb and a worn out piston/cylinder, so the customer bought a new saw. When I pulled the muffler, the cylinder looked amazingly good with almost no discernible scoring. I can still see the machining marks on the piston and cylinder portions that I can see. Both my 018 and 260 look awful in comparison.

I cut your questions out to give you a second set of answers... Not that you need them.
Questions:

1) How do I look up the year of birth and the piston/cylinder size? I have the serial.
IDK either I've heard you can call Stihl corporate or a dealer to have them look it up.

2) Despite the cleanliness of the piston/cylinder, the top of the cylinder is coated with carbon or whatever. Should I pull the cylinder to clean it? Other methods to do that? Or leave well enough alone...
Pics would help here alot however my my usual run through consists of. tear down to case and cylinder, block the exhaust and crimp the intake neck shut. Clean, clean and clean some more. Remove cylinder and piston for inspection. Check to make sure there is no scoring anywhere. Use a brake cylinder hone, red scotch brite, and wd-40 to clean and lightly scuff cylinder walls. Wrap the scotch brite around the hone so the stones push the pad into the cylinder walls and combustion chamber. About the best way to clean it. Check the piston for damage and thin skirts replace if needed; if not install new Caber rings (for $10-$15 you might as well). Reinstall P&C on crankcase and install new oil seals. Oh before you go replacing rings and such you might want to reassemble the saw a little and get a compression test if the cylinder looks good... If there is absolutely no vertical scoring and you have 150psi or better leave the P&C alone.

3) Should I buy a new aftermarket carb or rebuild the original Wolbro WJ48 (B6). I've never rebuilt a small carb, but I'm very technical. With an eye towards Phase 2, I plan to put in an .074 jet into it. Would a Zama carb use the same system (the jet in this case), or is it internally different? Would an aftermarket rebuild kit be fine for the Walbro?
Honestly the only thing that ever needs replaced in a small carb like this is the diaphram if it gets stiff. If the diaphram isn't soft and flexible and it crinkles, replace it. Clean the rest with carb cleaner (I use a heated USC) and put back together.

4) The existing air filter is junk, is there a better (but modestly priced) air filter system (for phase 2 maybe)? Should I just get a regular replacement?
Depends on which AF you have. the better filter to have is the round/oval one but you have to change air filter covers and bases to make the round filter work if you have the big squrish one... Head over to weedeaterman.com Henry will take very good care of you over there. They are site sponsors and have probably everything you need
http://www.weedeaterman.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=stihl 066

5) Going to replace the various gas and oil hoses/filters. Are the aftermarket parts OK?
yes see link above: oem lines fit a little better but either work. I doubt stihl is still making their own fuel lines in USA or EU. They are probably made in china with walbro and zama carbs.

6) A dual port muffler cover (phase two after I get it running)
Again see link above.

7) Future proofing: Are seals and bearings easy to replace? Do I need to split the case? How about just the seals if the bearings show no signs of problems?
I already commented you should replace your seals anyhow. this ensures that you won't have an air leak after putting it all back together and you'll have peace of mind knowing its all new. You also don't have to have a tool to do pressure/vac testing too. Complete set of saw gaskets, seals, and new heat tape for under muffler are like $16.

8) How does the clutch needle bearings get lubed? Should I lube them and with what?
You don't oil or grease this. It would be like putting grease on something near your disk breaks on your car. you don't want that grease getting into the clutch drum and reducting the friction where the clutch grabs the drum. Besides if you think about it... A centrifical clutch will only allow the drum to run on the bearing when it's not engaged (ie idling only).

9.) What else might I do to it while the doing is good?
I think you have a good handle on it. Clean and replace the wear and tear stuff gas and impulse hose, rings (or rings and piston), oil seals, and carb kit. Inspect your other parts before you order stuff... You might take a look at your starter pawls and rubber AV mounts to make sure they aren't cracked or splitting. Also check the little silver "cup" on your recoil starter (guides the rope out of the starter to the starter handle. They can wear away at one edge of that silver cup rope guide and end up cutting your pull rope quite often.

Lastly you might think about taking some small electrical soldier 0.050" or so... and measure the squish (space between top of cylinder and piston). Ideal head space in there is about 0.020" so if you are larger (say 0.040) you'd probably be able to delete the base gasket and use liquid sealer to bring cylinder down a hair to 0.020". This decreases the combustion chamber size and increases compression for a little more power. It also brings the exhaust timing down a degree or two which make increase torque a hair.

 

[blsnelling]

What's the SN? It's on the case, right beside the muffler outlet. It's probably covered in soot.

The only way to know what you've got is to tear it down and go through it. If the crank bearings have plastic cages, check them closely. Otherwise, just make sure there's no radial play.

 

[kyle1!]

If you paid $60 for it send that saw to one of the modders on this site and have them go thru it and port it. Then you know it will be done right because you sound like me...inexperienced with saw repair.

 

[whitedogone]

Most, if not all the used saws I buy have issues. Even if they seem to run fine. The last couple have had lower end issues although they ran fine. Never know what you got until you get in there.

 

[LowVolt]

Where in the h-e-double hockey sticks are the pics of this crazy, you suck chainsaw score???

 

[JivaGo]

Thanks for the responses, I'll read more carefully after work.

I'm a novice, but there's no chance that I'd have someone else work on it. Other than maybe a carb adjustment which takes some skill and a tach. That a big part of why I bought it, I want to fiddle with it. I already have a 260 and an 018, and once I get a couple of particularly big trees down, there's no good reason to have such a big saw. But fortunately I don't need a good reason, I just want a new toy. The engineer in me wants to make it run great (but not enough to port the cylinder...)

 

[nstueve]

Thanks for the responses, I'll read more carefully after work.

I'm a novice, but there's no chance that I'd have someone else work on it. Other than maybe a carb adjustment which takes some skill and a tach. That a big part of why I bought it, I want to fiddle with it. I already have a 260 and an 018, and once I get a couple of particularly big trees down, there's no good reason to have such a big saw. But fortunately I don't need a good reason, I just want a new toy. The engineer in me wants to make it run great (but not enough to port the cylinder...)

Really sharp chain is the best/easiest chainsaw modification you can have. Learn to sharpen and it will make all your saws run much better.

 

[mdavlee]

The green fuel lines stihl has are more ethanol resistant.

 

[nstueve]

The green fuel lines stihl has are more ethanol resistant.

Just don't use ethanol and you'll be fine.

Hi Dave!

 

[mdavlee]

Some don't have a choice so I try to get the green ones now.

 

[nstueve]

Some don't have a choice so I try to get the green ones now.

You about ready to start charging me rent of the silvey stand yet?

 

[mdavlee]

Nah its not hurting nothing. I need to get rid of some junk in the basement myself.

 

[nstueve]

tell me about it... I have 5-7x Stihl 009-012's that will be hitting ebay soon unless someone else wants to mess with them. Also need to get rid of 2- Homelite SEZ's, 1x SXLAO, and 1x 33cc Homelite Ranger... If only I had some tanerite.