Great deal on a Craftsman Riding Mower

[JRM]

I don't think either will work.
Every red "high strength" loctite I've seen requires heat to soften up for removal which would likely negate the use of it.
I've always used antiseize on exhaust bolts/studs. Are you using lock washers? Try a re torque or 2 after a few heat cycles. Once everything is seated they should stay put.

 

[Okie]

You did not post up a model number of the engine.

What I have done in past with good results is do away with exhaust bolts and install studs and then use nuts to hole on the exhaust and I've also done this on some carbs.

If the muffler is heavy and flopping around you need to correct such first. (with a brace)

 

[djg james]

Ever work on a mini cultivator like this one:


Brother and I each have one for working in our garden. Last Spring neither would start despite trying to clean the carbs. Bought a new one for his and it started right up and is still going to date. I purchased the same carb a month later but did not install it until this Spring.
Long story short, it will only run a few seconds and then won't restart. New lines, fuel filter, and carb. Primer working as should. Gas is last years but I put Stabil in it so I don't think it's that.
Another video showed a device to test the coil. Couldn't find one. Any ideas?

 

[djg james]

Got cut short by a visitor.

If I let it set and try to start it the way they say to, it runs for about 5-10 seconds then peters out like it's out of gas. Sometime priming the bulb keeps it going a little longer but finally quits. Then it won't restart again.

 

[grizz55chev]

Got cut short by a visitor.

If I let it set and try to start it the way they say to, it runs for about 5-10 seconds then peters out like it's out of gas. Sometime priming the bulb keeps it going a little longer but finally quits. Then it won't restart again.

They are worthless in my neck of the world, our soil is mostly clay, these little machines are like a Mosquito on an elephant. I import most of my soil from a distributor 20 miles away each yr.

 

[djg james]

They are worthless in my neck of the world, our soil is mostly clay, these little machines are like a Mosquito on an elephant. I import most of my soil from a distributor 20 miles away each yr.

I don't use it for breaking up the soil first thing in the spring, just cultivating along the sides of the rows of plants. Much better control that my larger tillers. Also been blending compost into my raised beds.

 

[Okie]

I don't use it for breaking up the soil first thing in the spring, just cultivating along the sides of the rows of plants. Much better control that my larger tillers. Also been blending compost into my raised beds.

djgjames:
Just wondering if you are the dirt digger james that is the troy bilt tiller man?????

About your little 2 cycle tiller. I have some of them little fellers that I use for the same as you, getting between the rows and tilling in compost and wife uses them in flower beds. Really good as weed control. I use the big un's when first starting in early and late season. Also be sure and do the proper mix. Seen one few days ago that was 24:1 mix and owner said it was getting hot. Was ok when I doubled the 50:1 mix.

I have had the same issue as you are experiencing with them carbs on them little 2 cycle tillers. I can sometimes clean the carb and get a run but kinda a surprise when I get a good run. I just replace them, I buy from Amazon Prime and if one does not go it usually gets returned.
You farted around too long for testing yours, so you might as well get another $15 one a immediately install and test while it's still returnable. (or catch your brother not looking and just change tillers with him. You said they look just alike.

I think I'm a carb repair guy can repair the big 4 barrel auto carbs, chainsaw carbs, small engine carbs but but them little bitty carbs can be a real pain. Zama finally woke up and no longer sell kits, just complete carbs. Most of the new carb problems we see are the China clones and not ever tested from the factory.

 

[djg james]

djgjames:
Just wondering if you are the dirt digger james that is the troy bilt tiller man?????

About your little 2 cycle tiller. I have some of them little fellers that I use for the same as you, getting between the rows and tilling in compost and wife uses them in flower beds. Really good as weed control. I use the big un's when first starting in early and late season. Also be sure and do the proper mix. Seen one few days ago that was 24:1 mix and owner said it was getting hot. Was ok when I doubled the 50:1 mix.

I have had the same issue as you are experiencing with them carbs on them little 2 cycle tillers. I can sometimes clean the carb and get a run but kinda a surprise when I get a good run. I just replace them, I buy from Amazon Prime and if one does not go it usually gets returned.
You farted around too long for testing yours, so you might as well get another $15 one a immediately install and test while it's still returnable. (or catch your brother not looking and just change tillers with him. You said they look just alike.

I think I'm a carb repair guy can repair the big 4 barrel auto carbs, chainsaw carbs, small engine carbs but but them little bitty carbs can be a real pain. Zama finally woke up and no longer sell kits, just complete carbs. Most of the new carb problems we see are the China clones and not ever tested from the factory.

Sorry, I'm not dirt digger.
Brother has been nice enough to let me use his and I wouldn't do that to him.

Yes the carb was a Hipa carb off of Amazon. Should have installed back in Sept. when I got it. I just assumed it would be a good one since my Brother's was. Amazon no longer sells the Hipa carb by itself. Comes with a kit including parts I really don't need. But I guess I'll go that way.

 

[djg james]

Just noticed there are Hi/Lo screws on the carb. Pry off covers?


Any reason to play with them to get it started? I also too out the gasket between engine and carb. I'm trying anything.

 

[Okie]

I usually get a Hipa, they seem to have little better success rate than the other clones.
Hipa sometimes comes with a complete tune up kit.
Cost little bit more usually bet I'm mainly only looking at the carb.

Next time do the immediate install test.

A guy gave me a new one awhile back, it had never been in the dirt and would not run. Could not believe it had a bad carb and fuel lines hard as a rock and fuel never been installed.
That one sold at lowes for around $350.

Some of them itty bitty 2 cyles have a really wimpy plastic recoil assembly. Best to slowly bring them up on compression and then gently pull, don't jerk and especially do not pull to the end of the rope. The recoil assembly on some is a one piece unit, no replaceable parts.

I've walked in your shoes and feel your pain.

 

[djg james]

Couldn't find a Zama carb on Amazon. My try ebay. Worst case, I'd have to pay return shipping.

 

[Okie]

If you use the name Zama you WILL pay more.

Try Zama replacement when searching if you have the Zama carb numbers.

I see the same sometimes when trying to find Zama carbs and even the Zama kits are pricy.
I hear rumors that Zama is going to stop selling kits, but China will step in.

 

[JRM]

If you use the name Zama you WILL pay more.

You are also getting a component with a reputation. Been burned by too many chinesium knock off parts to intentionally buy them anymore....

 

[djg james]

I've posted before about my zero turn's hydraulic leak here (#2):
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/newer-zero-turn-hydrostat-question.359500/#post-7732410
I finally got some time to clean it up and investigate the problem. Long story short, it was only loose hose fittings going into the pump? (blockish piece). Tightened them up and no more leak.



The question is, what kind of seals do these hose fittings have on them? Coned fittings, tapered, rubber o-ring? I know nothing about hydraulics but I know there are a wide range of fittings out there. What pressure does a system like this generate? 20 psig? 50 psig?

 

[djg james]

Picked up a free push mower (Craftsman 140 cc?) that doesn't start. Covered in oil and dirt. Don't know where the oil came from. Could it have started with 50:1 and then finally shut down? Engine oil is clear.
Power washed it today and letting it dry.

 

[djg james]

Stomping on your thread again (lol). My zero turn is a 60" Howard Price. Manufactured in St. Louis years ago but has closed since. There may be someone there (60 mi away) that sells parts but they've been hard to get a hold of in the past.

I need new mower blades (3).
20-1/2" x 2-1/2" wide x 3/16" thick. Only hole is in the center and is 1" dia. The numbers on it are 20 750 and 23726.

A logo I can't read and made in USA stamped on it also. Any help?

 

[GenXer]

Stomping on your thread again (lol). My zero turn is a 60" Howard Price. Manufactured in St. Louis years ago but has closed since. There may be someone there (60 mi away) that sells parts but they've been hard to get a hold of in the past.

I need new mower blades (3).
20-1/2" x 2-1/2" wide x 3/16" thick. Only hole is in the center and is 1" dia. The numbers on it are 20 750 and 23726.

A logo I can't read and made in USA stamped on it also. Any help?

View attachment 1093532
View attachment 1093533

Your stamp reads 20.750 so it would be 20 ¾ ". You should be able to find something that fits at a hardware store. Just make sure you have a 1" hole. You can grind down a 21" blade if needed, that's just a small ⅛th trim on either side and you will get the right size.

 

[djg james]

Your stamp reads 20.750 so it would be 20 ¾ ". You should be able to find something that fits at a hardware store. Just make sure you have a 1" hole. You can grind down a 21" blade if needed, that's just a small ⅛th trim on either side and you will get the right size.

Ah that's what the first number stands for. Thanks. You don't have to be specific? Just length and hole diameter? Don't have to worry about the curves and bends?

Somewhere I saw on the internet (ha) that you shouldn't use generic blades. Something about performance?

 

[GenXer]

Ah that's what the first number stands for. Thanks. You don't have to be specific? Just length and hole diameter? Don't have to worry about the curves and bends?

Somewhere I saw on the internet (ha) that you shouldn't use generic blades. Something about performance?

You are allowed to believe a snake oil salesman also.

Anyone that tells you an aftermarket won't work properly is just trying to sell you their brand of stuff.

 

[djg james]

You are allowed to believe a snake oil salesman also.

Anyone that tells you an aftermarket won't work properly is just trying to sell you their brand of stuff.

I didn't believe it either. Just couldn't understand what difference it would make. It's a lawnmower not a space ship.