Guide bar length confusion: geez...

[KostasVolos]

I'm going on 51 and am determined to avoid glasses. I get annoyed at even wearing saftey glasses....lol!
Since you mention the thumbwheel, I'm kinda disliking myself. I got to messing around with my 180c last night (hadn't really messed with it before) and that adjuster was bothersome with my sore thumb. I can't imagine what it'd be like to fiddle with it and cold hands in the winter. I haven't the money for a bit to switch both of these Stihls to normal adjusters, so the 180c will just have ride with it for a while.

Look,you need basically few parts and one small set of parts to complete the switch .

1) A bar stud OEM or aftermarket .
Here in Greece an aftermarket one costs about 2.5€ ,
while the OEM Stihl costs about double .
OEM Part S/N : 1123 664 2400

Unscrew the Torx bolt ,with its nut
all the way down install the stud in place .


2 ) Bar nut ( get more than one,trust me ...) OEM or AM .
Costs less than the stud .
OEM part S/N : 0000 955 0801



3 ) Side cover ,
AM costs about 15€ here.
O.E.M.# 1123 640 1705


4 ) Side chain tensioner set .
OEM # : 1123 007 1000
You can find the OEM at ebay
for about $50 :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1857843512...XGatmYR0aAo81EALw_wcB#SellerPresenceViewModel
or get an AM one for way less
https://sawparts.ca/products/stihl-017-018-021-023-025-ms170-ms180-ms210-ms230-ms250-chain-adjuster
https://www.farmertec.com/Aftermark...00-Suit-Stihl-Pole-Saw-Gear-Head-p288268.html
And a small Torx screw for securing the AM side tensioner ....
OEM # : 9075 478 3015

 

[Bill G]

We have larger trees here but these are the small ones that are unfit for lumber/

 

[Woodslasher]

I've run an 18" bar on my MS250 for years, it's pulled it quite well even in 18" oak. There's not a whole lot of really dense, hard wood here but in our mediocre oak it does fine.

 

[muddy42]

It looks like you have an 18 inch bar. Personally i prefer 14 inch bars on 45 cc saws, as the cut wood faster. But i have the benefit of having bigger saws with longer bars when i need them.

When you replace a well used bar, you really should consider replacing bar, chain and sprocket at the same time (as they wear together). If so the markings on the new bar will be visible and its simple to match the correct chain and you have the confidence the chain matches the bar.

 

[thook]

Insert the word called in front of the length in inches or cm. Then use a number for the sensible number of drive links.

Both of those Stihl models use the 3005 bar 44=12 50=14 55=16 61=18 in 3/8picco In brand x it is generally 45, 52, 56, 62

In .325 The 3005 and 3003 loops have different lengths.

I have a couple Total 1/4 pitch bars they call both 72 and 76 14"

Ah, okay. Makes sense.

 

[thook]

It looks like you have an 18 inch bar. Personally i prefer 14 inch bars on 45 cc saws, as the cut wood faster. But i have the benefit of having bigger saws with longer bars when i need them.

When you replace a well used bar, you really should consider replacing bar, chain and sprocket at the same time (as they wear together). If so the markings on the new bar will be visible and its simple to match the correct chain and you have the confidence the chain matches the bar.

Well, seems lots of people run the 18" with no complaints. I don't care if I cut a few seconds faster. What's the rush? None for me. Otoh, I can see the point for particular circumstances.
Yes, I know. The drive sprocket looks pretty worn, so I'll be getting that and new chains. The bar I'm pretty sure is just fine on it's condition, I guess it just ain't what I was expecting from the 18" type bars I'm more familiar with. These are the first two Stihls I've owned.