Harbor Freight chain shapener on sale

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Chain Sharpener

Believe it or not these units are decent!--I hav sharpened about 200 chains on mine--just changed the wheel for the third time & it still works decent--Better than paying $5.00 a shot to the locals & they will only sharpen up a chain three times before they grind away all of the metal!
 
Is that thing easy to use?
Does it come with directions, etc?
I have never used or seen one of these gizmos, can someone learn how to sharpen chains with it easily?

Just had 3 chains sharpened at $7.50 a piece!!!
 
Sharpener

Yes, very easy to mount & use. It's made of ABS plastic & easy to adjust. My wife with 5 minutes of looking at me sharpening a couple of chains has the operation down pat & can sharpen a chain complete in less than 5 minutes....
 
At $99, you're better off saving the extra money for an Oregon 511A/Tecomec136/SpeedSharp/whatever they happen to have it badged as where you're buying them.

But at $30, this is a good deal. Honestly, even if you like hand-filing your chains, it is easily worth $30 to be able to quickly fix a rocked-up chain, if only to prep it for hand filing.

Once you get your technique down, you can put a good edge on a chain with a grinder.
 
I am one of those who actually enjoys spending the time down in my shop sharpening a chain by hand with some good music on the radio. It's actually relaxing compared to the stress of other things, work being one. Plus, when you're done, you get immediate satisfaction seeing that sharp shiny chain ready to go. BUT, as was said, if the chain is really banged up from hitting an embedded rock or hardware, it can quickly turn into a chore. For $30, I could grind away the crap quick and dirty, and then finish with a file as I usually do. For that price, using it just for really chewed up chains as I said, I have little to lose. Think I'll bite.
 
Question about the sharpener

What size chain can you sharpen with one of these? Do you have to buy different wheels for different chains?
 
alderman said:
What size chain can you sharpen with one of these? Do you have to buy different wheels for different chains?
Click to expand...

It should come with a 1/8 that is decent for .325 chain, and a 3/16 that works well for 3/8 chain.

I have been there, done that. The little grinder would be okay for grinding enough that a file could finish it. Mine was not accurate enough to suit me. I went with the Oregon 511 (much better machine).

All that aside, It is capable of producing a edge that will "cut".

With the addition of a DPDT switch the motor is reversible, which helps produce a cleaner tooth.

-Hill:chainsaw:
 
woodshop said:
I am one of those who actually enjoys spending the time down in my shop sharpening a chain by hand with some good music on the radio. It's actually relaxing compared to the stress of other things, work being one. Plus, when you're done, you get immediate satisfaction seeing that sharp shiny chain ready to go. BUT, as was said, if the chain is really banged up from hitting an embedded rock or hardware, it can quickly turn into a chore. For $30, I could grind away the crap quick and dirty, and then finish with a file as I usually do. For that price, using it just for really chewed up chains as I said, I have little to lose. Think I'll bite.
Click to expand...

Wood, is there a standard dimension for the depth, I've seen both .020" & .025" ??
Is it different for .325" & .375" chain?
I'd like to experiment a bit with the 95cc saw.

Paul
 
computeruser said:
At $99, you're better off saving the extra money for an Oregon 511A/Tecomec136/SpeedSharp/whatever they happen to have it badged as where you're buying them.

But at $30, this is a good deal. Honestly, even if you like hand-filing your chains, it is easily worth $30 to be able to quickly fix a rocked-up chain, if only to prep it for hand filing.

Once you get your technique down, you can put a good edge on a chain with a grinder.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I have it for. That, and converting to rip chains. Much by hand. Heck, I think I paid $39.

Mark
 
Paul61 said:
Wood, is there a standard dimension for the depth, I've seen both .020" & .025" ??
Is it different for .325" & .375" chain?
I'd like to experiment a bit with the 95cc saw.

Paul
Click to expand...
Sorry Paul, I'm not sure I understand what your asking... .02" and .025" in reference to what?

I have never used an electric chain sharpener, always sharpen by hand. I'm going to get this $30 one and use it only for really banged up chains that hit hardware where I have to take a ton of metal away to clean it up. Then finish by hand as usual. Usually you do get what you pay for, thus I'm thinking that at that price, this thing just isn't going to be all that accurate. I actually enjoy sharpening my chains by hand too much to give that up.
 
I'll admit it, I bought one a while ago when they were on sale for 39.99 I think. It is ok for it's intended application, but I would like to get a better grinder for doing more things.

Just remember people that haven't used a grinder. You don't slowly grind the tooth. This creates heat and will harded and weaken spots of the cutter. You almost want to bounce it off the tooth. Quick short bursts.

I use mine for rocked out chains and a number of details on a chain, but I still do most of my sharpening by hand. I find it relaxing, and until I can buy a cheap square grinder, my only option is to hand file. lol.

-
Steve
 
Freakingstang said:
I'll admit it, I bought one a while ago when they were on sale for 39.99 I think. It is ok for it's intended application, but I would like to get a better grinder for doing more things.

Just remember people that haven't used a grinder. You don't slowly grind the tooth. This creates heat and will harded and weaken spots of the cutter. You almost want to bounce it off the tooth. Quick short bursts.

I use mine for rocked out chains and a number of details on a chain, but I still do most of my sharpening by hand. I find it relaxing, and until I can buy a cheap square grinder, my only option is to hand file. lol.

-
Steve
Click to expand...

Freak you hit it so hard the grinder falls on the floor ...Is that what you mean...LOL:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: bounce off the floor or tooth..
 
TreeCo said:
I was considering getting one of these grinders just for doing depth gauges. I have a USG and hate changing it over to do the depth gauges.

Dan
Click to expand...



I agree onthe USG.. I never change mine for rakers - just do them by hand. Quicker anyhow...
 
I just ordered one. I enjoy hand filing, but for $30, this should be a fun toy to try out. Thanks for the thread. I've got a few chains that are just too much work for hand filing.
 
Lakeside53 said:
I agree onthe USG.. I never change mine for rakers - just do them by hand. Quicker anyhow...
Click to expand...

I got one of those little metal plates with the two different cutouts from my local Husky dealer. I like it, but may have to modify one to go a bit lower. They are labelled for softwood and hardwood, but the 3120 could use a bit bigger bite when ripping.

Mark
 
RE: depth gauges. Since I mostly cut softwoods I too wanted a bit better bite. A few weeks ago I was going by the Stihl dealer and stopped in. Yep, he had depth gauges for 025, 030, and (I think) 035, I got the 030 one and it seems to be working well - used a chain today that I filed with that.

I got to check on that grinder. My local shop just closed so the next nearest is 30 miles. My eyes are down to checking 'sharp' by feel even with magnifying glass and a headlamp. I had rocked out an almost new chain last week by hitting my log chain that I forgot was there. Took 15 strokes per tooth and I apparently didn't get all of it at that as it is going in a slight curve. Then there is the problem of trying to get all teeth the same length when filing by hand.

Harry K
 

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