Hello from France , need help on a STIL 029 running problem

[victor-duarte]

Hello dear forum members,
i just foud this forum and, from what i've read i think i am in the right place to find valuable persons that will help me.

excuse my bad english, i live in France.

I am not a wood pro , i use my STIHL 029 to cut wood for my chimney, i live in a cold place and i have a lot of trees to chop down for this winter and the next .

ok here is the problem :
the 029 ran fine until recently... the saw began to refuse to fully accelerate and i found it weak cutting oak.
the saw would run fine for 20 minutes, then when really hot, it would just start, idle, but not accelerate, if i apply full throttle, it stalls...

i asked a mech to check the carb, he changed the membrane, i took it back, it would run fine for 20 minutes then, same problem...
i brought it back to the shop and after some days he told me the problem would come from a seal leak (cylinder or spi-seals) and that it would cost me about 300 dollars, damn that's hot...

i disassembled the machine, excepted engine ans saw no leak at the base of the cylinder....

now, i can start it, keep it at full throttle, screaming, but it stalls when i realease the throttle...

what do you think ? can it be a leak ?

thanks in advance.

Victor

 

[Rookie1]

Well Victor welcome to AS. Its cool to be conversing with someone from across the world. I think your mechanic may have meant it had a crankshaft seal leaking causing an air leak. When you had it apart did you do a vacuum test? Have you replaced all the rubber lines also, fuel and impulse line. If carb was rebuilt that was part of the possible problems. Im sure there will be someone along to give you better advise.

 

[mini14]

The crank oil seals are probably leaking.

 

[victor-duarte]

hello rookie, mini

it seems that it could be a crank seal leaking... how can i perform a vaccum test ?

i guess i have to get adequate tooling to dissassemble the clutch and the magneto wheel .... is there , anywhere a howto disassemmble a 029 for dummies ?

i enjoy very much to exchange with overseas pals, good forums, good infos, good people, it make my english better too...

thanks for the reply.

Victor

 

[JONSEREDFAN6069]

sound's to me your spark arrestor screen is carbon'd up, remove the muffler and check the screen, pretty sure that's what it is.

 

[Taxmantoo]

To do a pressure and vacuum test, you will need to seal off the intake and exhaust ports, and hook up your vacuum pump to the engine.

You can also remove the spark plug and hook up your pressure test gear to the spark plug hole, if the piston is low enough to open the transfer ports.

 

[rocky226]

It could be the spark arrestor plugged up. That is the easy fix. I have never had to replace seals yet. My Stihl 028 would run and then just die instantly also, it was a pin hole in the fuel line, but it would only run less than a minute. You will find the help you need here there are a great bunch of guys here. They have solved all my problems with ease.

 

[davefr]

Victor,
No excuse needed. Your English is better then most of us!!

Go to search and click on advanced search. Now enter "leak test" and hit search titles only.

You might also want to get a factory service manual for your 029. Just scroll up to the beg for manual thread and put in your request. Stihl manuals are quite good when it comes to diagnostic/testing techniques.

There was also a great thread on basic 290 rebuilding but most of the images went "poof". You can try searching using "basic" in the title. The thread is still valuable even without the images.

Good luck. You'll get lots of help here.

 

[Rookie1]

The seals are a possibility but Ive never heard of them going bad. There are threads out here that have discussed them and if I remember right one guy says he has reused the old ones with no problems. So I would wonder about that diagnoses. Ive had spark arrestors plug up and the engine wont run at all,but I could see enough backpressure to just let engine idle. Has the problem happened all of a sudden or slowly coming on. It sure is hard to diagnose this far away.

 

[HiOctane]

Si ta scie n'etait pas etanche,ton ralenti serait tres irregulier, meme lorsque tu demarres ta scie.Verifie donc lorsqu'elle a tourne quelques minutes si il ny a pas une pression qui se batit dans ton reservoir d'essence.Tu devisses le bouchon lentement et si tu entends siffler l'air,c'est ta prise a air qui est bloquee.C'est pourqoui qu'au bout de 10-15 minutes,elle refuserait car il s'est bati un vide dans ton reservoir.

 

[HEAVY FUEL]

:agree2: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Rookie1]

Si ta scie n'etait pas etanche,ton ralenti serait tres irregulier, meme lorsque tu demarres ta scie.Verifie donc lorsqu'elle a tourne quelques minutes si il ny a pas une pression qui se batit dans ton reservoir d'essence.Tu devisses le bouchon lentement et si tu entends siffler l'air,c'est ta prise a air qui est bloquee.C'est pourqoui qu'au bout de 10-15 minutes,elle refuserait car il s'est bati un vide dans ton reservoir.

Man I dont know what that says but it sure looks good. Ill bet he's tellin Victor hes glad to be using his french. Nice post!

 

[Taxmantoo]

Si ta scie n'etait pas etanche,ton ralenti serait tres irregulier, meme lorsque tu demarres ta scie.Verifie donc lorsqu'elle a tourne quelques minutes si il ny a pas une pression qui se batit dans ton reservoir d'essence.Tu devisses le bouchon lentement et si tu entends siffler l'air,c'est ta prise a air qui est bloquee.C'est pourqoui qu'au bout de 10-15 minutes,elle refuserait car il s'est bati un vide dans ton reservoir.

Or, as Babelfish would say:

If your saw n' was not tight, your idle would be very irregular, same when you start your saw. Thus check lorsqu' it has turns a few minutes if it ny does not have a pressure which is built in your tank d' gasoline. You currencies the stopper slowly and if you intend to whistle l' air, c' is your catch has air which is bloquee. C' is pourqoui qu' at the end of 10-15 minutes, she would refuse because he s' a vacuum in your tank is built.

 

[Fish]

If you brought that saw into my shop, with the same story, I would start
from page 1.

I would closely inspect the fuel line, which if has never been replaced,
likely does now. While doing so, I would go through the carb correctly,
and if then, and only then, if that did not cure the problem, would I
consider "pressure testing".....

Reading your thread, the first thing you need to do is to remove the muffler,
and look at your melted/molten piston, and let us know what that looks like.

Not meaning to be harsh, but that is what you need to look at next.

 

[keith66]

hey victor
you said its cold where you live in france. do you live in the french alps? What are the most common trees in your area? fir, maple ash, pine, birch, spruce, cedar..?

 

[victor-duarte]

Wow, thank you guys, that's what i call help !

i have to investigate further now...

how do i remove spark arrestor and fix it ?


Keith, i live in the "massif central", not alps at all, just cold enought to cut lots of wood.

commercial wood here is mainly spruce and douglas , beech and oak for chimneys.

great forum

 

[JONSEREDFAN6069]

hey victor, here are some pic's that may help, remove the 3 bolts to remove the front plate and screen will be under there. I had an 026 that was plugged almost solid, had pretty close symptoms as your's has. Also this top plate has been modified, borrowed pic's from another post.

 

[madrone]

Pour vérifier une fuite sur l'embrayage dégrossissez sans equiptment d'essai : enlevez l'embrayage ; mettez la corde en trou de bougie d'allumage, tournez l'embrayage avec le fil d'inversion.
enlevez la vitesse d'huile.
exposez le phoque détraqué.
mettez en marche le moteur sur le ralenti seulement.
mettez le liquide sur le phoque (j'emploie le produit wd40) et la montre si elle part. Si le liquide suce dans la machine, il y a une fuite.
bonne chance

 

[Fish]

I always wondered ho you spelled WD-40 in French!!!!

 

[victor-duarte]

Pour vérifier une fuite sur l'embrayage dégrossissez sans equiptment d'essai : enlevez l'embrayage ; mettez la corde en trou de bougie d'allumage, tournez l'embrayage avec le fil d'inversion.
enlevez la vitesse d'huile.
exposez le phoque détraqué.
mettez en marche le moteur sur le ralenti seulement.
mettez le liquide sur le phoque (j'emploie le produit wd40) et la montre si elle part. Si le liquide suce dans la machine, il y a une fuite.
bonne chance

Hi Madrone, i think i understand english better than translators's french, thank you for the effort anyway.
"exposez le phoque détraqué. " means : expose the crazy seal (animal) :greenchainsaw:

today i removed muffler and saw nothing wrong...i didn't cut it in two anyway... i drilled a hole on the front cover as i have seen it on another thread...
when started, the engine runs fast at full throttle but quits when i realease it, no way to keep it at idle.... anyway, i could test it at full throttle on a old hard oak trunk ( 19' ) and it cuts fine at the beginning, then, 10 minutes after, it misses power and then stalls, no way to get it at full....

i noticed that when at full throttle, i have to keep the trigger squeezed or it won't accelerate....

what do you say doctors ?

cheers

Victor