Help with a woodstove install

[p575]

I bought a house and I'm trying to get the woodstove installed...its getting cold now...
I'll post up some pictures, but here is what I have. The house has a fireplace in the basement. The stove will sit on the floor, a foot or so from the front of the fireplace. The stove has the chimney exit on the rear of it. I plan on running a piece of black stove pipe from the stove, to the fireplace opening. Question is, how do I seal the front of the fireplace opening off? Easiest thing would be a sheet of plywood with a hole cut in it, but I guess that wouldn't be a very smart idea. I had thought about bricking up the hole, all but enough of a spot the insert the pipe, but that seems very permanent and would make cleaning out the chimney and servicing the damper pretty hard if it ever needed to be done. I feel like i've seen this done before with something similar to plywood, but obviously a non-flammable substitute...

Thanks for any help.

 

[jrr344]

Why not cut a hole in sheet metal?

 

[IthacaMan]

You should call a local fireplace shop for advice.I think you will need a stainless steel flexible pipe run doun inside the existing fireplace chimney.The same size as the rear outlet of your stove.This will make the stove draft correctly.At least this is the way I have seen this type of install done.

 

[Ductape]

Have you had the current flue inspected? We don't want you burning your new house down, especially with you or your family in it. I'll speculate you'll want to have an insulated stainless liner installed.

 

[p575]

 

[p575]

I thought about cutting a hole in a piece of sheetmetal. How would I go about sealing between the metal and the brick? just cut the sheet a little bigger than the hole?

Do I need to put an elbow on the end of the pipe to direct the exhaust upwards, or if the opening is covered by metal, and the pipe goes straight in, should it just carry upwards on its own?

It doesn't need a liner in it, the chimney is in good shape, doesn't look like its ever been burned, at least not anytime in the last many years. No creosote in it.

(a little bonus, there are some "fun" pictures on my webshots in the "weekend" folder...)

Thanks for the help.

 

[jasult]

I just did this type of install and I installed new liner all the way up to top.
My stove required 8 inch liner so I needed to remove the damper and remove a few fire brick for space.

 

[Axe Man]

Dont know what the building codes are like in your area, but when I hooked up a wood stove to and existing fireplace I had to cut into the brick above the damper, install a tee to the existing cleanout and run a liner from the tee to the top of the chimney. The most important thing is to keep your family safe and also keep your insurance co. happy. Back in Ontario if it hasn,t been inspected the insurance co wont pay damages. CYA and check it out.

 

[Henry and Wanda]

Hey p575,
Ok, here is what you can do.........I've had 2 of these metal plates that seal off the front of the fireplace....one I got when I bought a Sierra stove that set on the hearth and the other I got when I bought a Regency Hearth Stove. They are probably at least 12 gauge metal and have an angled bend on the upper and 2 outside edges. This allows you to put fiberglass insulation in around the edges to seal the plate. The next thing you need to do is fabricate a metal plate that you can screw on and cover the damper in your fireplace. You never want to just have the smoke go back into the firebox area and then find it's way up the chimmney. It will coat your firebox black and in damp weather it will be an extremely smelly mess.
Before installing the metal cover to the damper area, cut a hole in the center of it and install a short thimble (I guess that's the right term) so you can attach your stovepipe over it and attach with a few sheet metal screws.
Then bring your stovepipe out the back of your stove, through the hole in the middle of the metal plate covering your firebox. Make your pipe the appropriate length, put on a 90 degree elbow and another length of pipe to attach to the thimble that is in the plate covering the damper area. Now your smoke goes straight up the chimmney and none of it gets in your firebox area. Sounds like a lot of work but I have done it to 2 stoves in the past 2 houses that I owned. Good luck !!!!

Henry and Wanda

 

[CrappieKeith]

It doesn't need a liner in it, the chimney is in good shape, doesn't look like its ever been burned, at least not anytime in the last many years. No creosote in it.


Thanks for the help.

You do need a liner if it is oversized for what the stove calls for a flue diameter.

 

[Henry and Wanda]

Hey p575,
people are telling you that you need a liner.....it might burn best with a liner, I can't say for sure since I have no experience with them, however I have burned wood since 1981 in 2 different houses that had the woodstove piped in to a 13"x13" flue lined chimney in the way I described in my previous post and they have worked fine. I would say to try it before you spend major bucks on a liner....just my thinking. Good luck!

Henry and Wanda

 

[avalancher]

I thought about cutting a hole in a piece of sheetmetal. How would I go about sealing between the metal and the brick? just cut the sheet a little bigger than the hole?

Do I need to put an elbow on the end of the pipe to direct the exhaust upwards, or if the opening is covered by metal, and the pipe goes straight in, should it just carry upwards on its own?

It doesn't need a liner in it, the chimney is in good shape, doesn't look like its ever been burned, at least not anytime in the last many years. No creosote in it.

(a little bonus, there are some "fun" pictures on my webshots in the "weekend" folder...)

Thanks for the help.

You might want to reconsider that inspection,even if a fire has never been burned in the fireplace.Over time small cracks can develop in the mortar, providing a easy path for fire to get into your attic and torch the place.A good inspector will drop a camera down your chimney and look it over good.A very small price to pay, and will go a long ways when dealing with your insurance company in the event of a fire.Nothing worse than your home burning down and the insurance company refusing to pay for the replacement.