HitchClimber with sling leader (3 pics)

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Plasmech

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I was playing around in the basement with my HitchClimber with VT setup. The first picture below shows what I guess is a "standard" configuration. Climb line terminated with a DFL and 'binered to the top HitchClimber hole.

I did not like this setup one bit because the termination knot and its 'biner interfere with the VT, so much so that I seriously question the safety of such a setup.

The second picture below shows a 1" nylon sling used as a leader on the climb line connected to the HitchClimber's middle hole. FYI the 'biner is a Mighty Mouse, chosen because of its low height. This is a much nicer setup IMO in that there is a greatly reduced amount of interference. Feels much nicer in the hand and operated better as well.

The third picture is the same as the second except I went even more low profile by replacing the Mighty Mouse with a 3/8" delta link. Obviously if you're going to go this route, you'll have to consider the safety issues surrounding anything that's a screw-link.

The VT is made from Tecnora. I like this particular Prusik cord because it is high temp rated yet has no whipping on the ends (like bee line) to interfere with the HitchClimber.

4258612770_0c1fee5fda_b.jpg


4257854539_f531afda64_b.jpg


4257854617_61793f16ee_b.jpg
 
Interesting set-up. Would the length of the webbing sling put the biner in a oddly loaded position if you happen to get close to your TIP? And the delta link seems like a real pita when it comes to advancing your line. Just wondering.
 
I was playing around in the basement with my HitchClimber with VT setup. The first picture below shows what I guess is a "standard" configuration. Climb line terminated with a DFL and 'binered to the top HitchClimber hole.

I did not like this setup one bit because the termination knot and its 'biner interfere with the VT, so much so that I seriously question the safety of such a setup.

The second picture below shows a 1" nylon sling used as a leader on the climb line connected to the HitchClimber's middle hole. FYI the 'biner is a Mighty Mouse, chosen because of its low height. This is a much nicer setup IMO in that there is a greatly reduced amount of interference. Feels much nicer in the hand and operated better as well.

The third picture is the same as the second except I went even more low profile by replacing the Mighty Mouse with a 3/8" delta link. Obviously if you're going to go this route, you'll have to consider the safety issues surrounding anything that's a screw-link.

The VT is made from Tecnora. I like this particular Prusik cord because it is high temp rated yet has no whipping on the ends (like bee line) to interfere with the HitchClimber.

4258612770_0c1fee5fda_b.jpg


4257854539_f531afda64_b.jpg


4257854617_61793f16ee_b.jpg

Plas-
Keep it simple, ditch the webbing sling and replace the aluminum carabiner with steel you need the weight to advance your line. Attach both carbiners directly to to your saddle. Fewer links in the chain the better
 
hey muttly.

this exact topic has been covered many many times. move the top biner down a hole.

Not to start an argument buddy, but that doesn't always work either. Some have had luck with that method but I did not.

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You are correct that this has been covered many times though.
 
definitely a good tool dan. sucks for crane use though so i am back to 2 biners because it is just plain faster than the HC in that respect. but if you are making constant up and downs and lotta limb walking then for sure its cool.
 
then make a longer prussic too. not rocket science bro. simple solutions.

That would work if he was using a prussic cord that wasn't spliced. I don't exactly like his sling idea and definitely don't dig the oval screw link in the setup but I also understand why he wouldn't want to toss a brand new prussic out the window. At least he's thinking.
 
Now on a more practical note.

  • Repositioning the krab to the centre hole will widen the gap and change the angle between the body of the line, where the hitch is attached, and the tail of the line.

  • The issue is the termination interfering with the prussik when tending slack. This does not occur when the termination is farther from the HC than the prussik so you should use a longer krab not a shorter one

  • If this is not enough and you wish to keep the existing prussik then tie the vt backwards. That is, have the braids exit 180degrees from the termination. It bends the line below the wraps in the opposite direction.

  • Most important of all, keep your sense of humour man!
 
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