Homelite 1050 Super Bar Help

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scooby533

scooby533

ArboristSite Member
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Mar 30, 2012
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I've dug out an old Homelite Super 1050 w/o auto oil from my fathers garage. Now, I do believe the saw was bought as a factory Textron Rebuild (has a tag on it stated so). The Air filter cover is Red, but you can see some blue shining out from underneath. Anyway, the bar is a hard nose w/ .404 chain. I do believe it to be a 21" (also factory). I'm going to go through and clean it up and get it running again. I don't think it has cut more than 2 trees in its rebuilt lifetime. I'll post a picture of it as soon as I can.
The real question I have is, where can I source a bar for this saw? Do I have to replace anything/can I replace anything on the saw to accept a new bar commercially available? I've been lurking on the site for quite some time without any posts. I know there are some VERY knowledgeable individuals on this site, HELP ME!!!!!!!
 
Ok,

I've looked everywhere for a bar for this saw. Including Bailey's, actually that was the first place I've looked before I posted on here. I've found reference to an Oregon Laser Cut hard nose bar, but nothing STILL manufactured. HELP!!!!! What are you old Homelite Guys using for bars?
 
Cannons or Generals

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What part of Pittsburgh are you from? PM me and maybe I can point you to where a few old Homies are hiding.
 
I just got a Super XP-1020, no bar. Knowing nothing about them I did some research and finally called Bailey's. The CS rep must have spent about 20 mins searching with no luck and finally put one of their techies named Doug on the phone.

He told me he's modified many Husky bars to fit old big Homelites by taking about .010 off each side of the bar slot and then drilling an additional hole on each side of the bar [to allow for flipping] for the chain adjuster pin. Seem to recall he said the oil holes ought to line up. I have not yet tried it but it all made perfect sense while I was on the phone-hope that translates well when I actually put the Dremel to the steel.

Bailey's has several affordable bars to fit Husky. I've always been happy with everything I've bought from them, and this latest experience with them only adds more love.

The fleecebay currently has several 36" new Carlton sprocketnose .063 [.375 or .404, your choice] bars showing for $85 plus ~$20 shipping which are advertised as fitting C5/7/9/52/1050 if you're looking for that much bar/$$$.

I'm currently checking out the pawnshops and 2nd-hand stores around here hoping to find an aging orphan bar in the 30-42"/10-40$ range. Doubt I'll ever get to fully bury a bar that size around here and if I do it's even money whether or not I herniate [umbilical/inguinal/abdominal/lumbar disc, pick one] myself in the process.

I tell myself it's so I'll be able to mill a big log into a fancy fireplace mantel if I happen upon one lying injured and defenseless in the forest, but it's probably just a subliminal side effect from seeing RandyMac's avatar too many times...
 
Ok two things, how do I post the pictures so they show up that big? Or do I need to have more posts under my belt. I must have played with them for 15 minutes, but I was at work........ Second, I'm almost certain the bar on there is a 21" from counting the links.....71 if memory serves me. I'm really only looking to get a new bar. My 660 will do fine w/ anything I need over that................Very seldom around here, a few oaks and silver maples get to around 48" every now and again (love it when they do that!).

I was cleaning out Dads garage and didn't even realize he still had this saw. I remember him buying it down in Pittsburgh at the Homelite service center for under $50 around 1984 or so when he was cutting a lot of fire wood and splitting. I caught a bit of a fever and wanted to play w/ it knowing it was a 100cc saw. Did some searching and found this site in the spring time, but things got busy. So here I am now w/ a new project. I'm going to pop the cover off and see if this is by chance an auto oiler, but I admittedly don't know these saws very well.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't Husky Bars made by Oregon? I'll have to do some research. I was actually hoping to pull the studs and see if I can make up a stud that will fit the case and be a Stihl or Husky profile. I'm not sure if they are pressed in or threaded in. Either way, this saw wont see a lot of use. I would love to find another cylinder for it and have it ported. But the 660 is first. Once it's ported I'll play w/ this one. I would like to get it cleaned up and running well first.

What Homelites have the same bar mounting setup? Cannon makes bars for Homelites, but the 1050 isn't listed.

Thanks for the info, this site seems to be flooded with a good bit of knowledge to tap into!
 
From the link the 67L36Driver gave me, there is an Super XP 1050E and a Super XP 1050 Auto. I'm not sure of the difference between the two. The other 1050's look to be discontinued before dad got a hold of this from the factory service center. Not to say that the saw couldn't have been sitting around a while, just that I doubt it. I need some of the Homelite collectors to weigh in here.
 
The bar thats on that saw looks pretty good to me. Are you just looking to get a bigger bar, or are you wanting to keep that one looking original.
 
I didn't read your post above. Unless your a machinast, I wouldn't mess with those bar studs at all.You're opening a can of worms with that. If your going to be modifying a bar, I would just look for a Homelite branded bar that fits an XL 925 or something like that. Those bars can be found NOS all the time on the Bay.
 
Vibes the chain has a lot of side to side movement compared to my Stihl or Oregon bars for my 441 or 660. It may well be fine and once its running I'll test it in one of the maples I have down. I just thought the groove was a bit worn. I'm a total rookie, before I looked at this site, I would just replace and throw out. Now I have a timberline sharpener and I'm going to try porting an old Lawnboy 2 stroke before I mess w/ one of the saws. I have access to lawnboy 2 strokes (I know a scrapper).
 
I've machined, but I'm not a machinist. I was an aircraft mechanic in the USMC then US Airways at the Pittsburgh base for a few years. Now I work as a Tech adviser for an Aircraft Manufacturer in Johnstown. If those studs are pressed in, no joy, if not, I may be able to make something and have it heat treated to Grade 8. That should be good, but the chain adjuster is another issue.
 
scooby533 said:
Vibes the chain has a lot of side to side movement compared to my Stihl or Oregon bars for my 441 or 660. It may well be fine and once its running I'll test it in one of the maples I have down. I just thought the groove was a bit worn. I'm a total rookie, before I looked at this site, I would just replace and throw out. Now I have a timberline sharpener and I'm going to try porting an old Lawnboy 2 stroke before I mess w/ one of the saws. I have access to lawnboy 2 strokes (I know a scrapper).
Click to expand...

Find an O.P.E. dealer/repair shop that can dress the bar down and true up the bar rails. The side slop will be reduced and it will cut straight. 20 minute job, tops.



Since you mentioned Lawnboy mowers: What bore/piston dia. do they use? I'm looking for a 2.250" dia. piston to use in a saw engine 2.250" bore x 1.750" stroke. Willing to adapt something.

Carl.
 
Howdy,
If you're going to run .404, the Oregon Harvester 114, and 104 mount bars jump right on without modification.
Regards
Gregg
 

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