That looks more like an older impact drill, like the rock drills they use for blasting.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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That looks more like an older impact drill, like the rock drills they use for blasting.
Kjon
ArboristSite Lurker
I have a SXL-925 that died on me while cutting some firewood the other day. It has no spark. I did get it to spark briefly a few times while trying to diagnose it, but now I can’t get any spark at all. It has the 3-piece ignition. I’ve tried a new spark plug, and I also re-gapped the flywheel to a business card thickness. Also tried with the kill switch disconnected. Also removed the flywheel and found three of the four bolts holding the “ignition plate” were loose. I tightened them down hoping it was grounding issue, but still no spark. Is there any easy way to figure out which part is malfunctioning, or is the entire ignition system usually replaced together? Any of you old timers with Popeye arms have any experience diagnosing spark issues with these? I’d be much obliged. 
I am not vaccinated to go on facebook...
Gee you young whipper snapper [emoji15] you might need a multimeter and test all 3 wires.
My module's wire was worn and frayed at the plastic so I had to redo a wire. Be careful when getting into it so as to not damage it.
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
My module's wire was worn and frayed at the plastic so I had to redo a wire. Be careful when getting into it so as to not damage it.
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
Kjon
ArboristSite Lurker
I do have a multi meter, but not really sure what to set the parameters to and what numbers to be looking for. I’m assuming ohms, and some level of continuity between wires...? My electrical skills have yet to be built.
Where the wires exit the module(donut around crankshaft) there are a few tablespoons of silicone encasing the wires. Is that normal, or did the previous owner maybe already get in there and then seal up his handy work? It looks like it could be factory, but maybe not.
Where the wires exit the module(donut around crankshaft) there are a few tablespoons of silicone encasing the wires. Is that normal, or did the previous owner maybe already get in there and then seal up his handy work? It looks like it could be factory, but maybe not.
You can use the meter to just check for continuity to see if there's a problem with the wires. No you shouldn't have blobs of perma-snot on the wires, that is a sign of previous owners attempts at a repair.
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
Kjon
ArboristSite Lurker
Well, maybe a tablespoon of snot... I’ll have to dig into some more this weekend. I appreciate the responses. 
Finally got my 450 up and running. It received all new fuel and oil lines, New intake boot and a 550 carb that's fully adjustable. I had to take the tank apart and reseal it. Replaced all the junky old phillips screws with some nice new stainless allens. She is still in need of a chain and a non broken clutch cover but all in all i'm happy with it.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well, somethings wrong. Either the spike I bought off ebay isn't for a 350 (as advertised) or a 350 spike wont fit a 360. Mounting holes are so far off I'm beginning to think the seller m mislabeled the part or didn't know any better.
My 922 had that same stuff on the terminals.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Better yet, I reviewed my purchase order. Senior moment. It was advertised for a Husky 350. I clearly didn't thoroughly read the description, closely enough. Sorry for the confusion. On a positive note, I can use it on my Husky 346.
There are plenty of spikes both NOS and aftermarket available on Ebay.
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
I picked up what I believe to be a C-91 today from an ad on CL.It has nice compression & fired on a prime when I put some fuel in the plug hole.No ID tags or decals on it,that's why I'm guessing a C-91.The guy origionally wanted $50,but I got it for $45.It has a REAL muffler,not the crappy stack "muffler".
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redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Anyone have a way to remove the clutch on a Homelite 360? I imagine other Homies use the same clutch so there must be a tool or some other procedure. I’m hesitant to use a drift for fear of busting a shoe. I’ve attached a pic of the clutch with the 4 screw cover removed.
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Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
The key is to enter into 3 holes of the central part of the clutch or at least 2
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/TOOL-HOMELI...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I bought this tool a couple of years ago and it works on most 3 pin Homelite clutches that I have encountered. It looks like should work on that clutch. I think that there are other “hacks” such as inserting a couple of Allen keys or similar into the holes and prying with a wrench in between them. I’ve never had much success with that personally though….
I also have that XL tool and it is too large for the 360 clutch. I'm sure there's a very expensive one that fits those saws! The mid-size Stihl spanner for the 031/041/051 series will work. It fits between the shoes like it does on the Stihl clutches.
I have made them by finding a socket that fits inside the holes then put pins in the hole,weld pins to socket.
I always have a tin of sacrificial sockets
I always have a tin of sacrificial sockets
