You say 3 Homelite saw plan? My plan is a lot more than 3[emoji1787]
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
I actually prefer the little EZ over the Super EZ.
I have the Canadian versions but assume they are the same. My Blue XL-1 seems to have a better sound.
Your storage is a little nicer than mine. Once I get everything cleaned up I will build shelves along the wall.You say 3 Homelite saw plan? My plan is a lot more than 3[emoji1787]
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
Your saws look to be on the floor, I believe that is a recipe for disaster (mag rot). The cement or concrete does a job on the cases.
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
I really need to find me one of those Super 1050’s or a 2100!You say 3 Homelite saw plan? My plan is a lot more than 3[emoji1787]
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
They come up from time to time. The full wrap is non existent on the east cost, luckily some one contacted me about one out west.
I even see a couple SXL knock-offs in your mix. And yeah, it can be pretty inspirational to see someone else's well organized space(s). LOL I certainly always seem to be struggling with mine! And I do use cardboard underneath any saws that would otherwise be sitting on concrete primarily to keep oil off the floor, but also as a corrosion inhibitor. Mag rot requires a fair degree of humidity (or direct moisture contact) for the corrosion process to occur, but can happen rapidly under the right (wrong?) conditions. Better safe than sorry using some cardboard and a lot easier than media blasting a case to treat/stop the white death once it has already developed.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Not sure what’s going on. Pressure test shows a leak on the clutch side of my 360. Interesting,y it’s not at the seal, I don’t believe, but between the oil worm gear and crankshaft. Not sure what my options are; replace worm gear. which I imagine requires fully disassembling the saw? Pic is attached
Attachments
Loctite green may be your friend here. If you're not familiar with it, it's a super low viscosity wicking formula sleeve retainer and thread sealant. There are a couple different versions of it. You would want the 492144 Threadlocker 290 Penetrating Liquid for starters.
Try to get some brake cleaner down along the crank to clean out any residual oil, but obviously do it carefully so as to not get any on the seals. Give it overnight to creep along the shaft and maybe do a second treatment for good measure. Apply the Loctite carefully, too -- just a little at a time all the way around the crank. Let it seep along the shaft and then re-apply, obviously taking into consideration there's a bearing underneath the worm that you don't want to contaminate by using too much. Using a little vacuum to draw both the brake cleaner and then the Loctite between the surfaces is also an option to ensure adequate penetration of both and speed up the wicking -- especially for the brake cleaner.
Let it cure for 48 hours regardless of the claims that it fully cures in 24. Be patient and don't push your luck. You should have a good seal between the crank and worm when all is said and done. If you still have a leak, (which I doubt you will), you can step up to the Loctite 640 sleeve retainer which is a higher viscosity formula for larger spaces between surfaces. I've used both successfully for very similar situations to yours -- one actually being a crank with a deformity right under the inner bearing race.
Good luck with it.
Try to get some brake cleaner down along the crank to clean out any residual oil, but obviously do it carefully so as to not get any on the seals. Give it overnight to creep along the shaft and maybe do a second treatment for good measure. Apply the Loctite carefully, too -- just a little at a time all the way around the crank. Let it seep along the shaft and then re-apply, obviously taking into consideration there's a bearing underneath the worm that you don't want to contaminate by using too much. Using a little vacuum to draw both the brake cleaner and then the Loctite between the surfaces is also an option to ensure adequate penetration of both and speed up the wicking -- especially for the brake cleaner.
Let it cure for 48 hours regardless of the claims that it fully cures in 24. Be patient and don't push your luck. You should have a good seal between the crank and worm when all is said and done. If you still have a leak, (which I doubt you will), you can step up to the Loctite 640 sleeve retainer which is a higher viscosity formula for larger spaces between surfaces. I've used both successfully for very similar situations to yours -- one actually being a crank with a deformity right under the inner bearing race.
Good luck with it.
I have used the 290 green wicking formula for leaks between the metal seal housing and the aluminum bore on a few 10 Series McCulloch saws, perhaps a Poulan as well. Worked every time for me.
Mark
Mark
Hi Bob,
Did you try it with the race, washer and clutch assembled and tightened up?
I can't see the gear or crankshaft wearing beyond normal spec as it's clamped down hard with the clutch.
Out of curiosity what seals did you use?
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Havent replaced the seals. They don't seem to leak. Just the leak between the crank and oiler gear. Ordered some Green loctite 492144 and will follow Pogo's recomendations. I've been discussing this issue with Leon's Chainsaw repair. He doesn't believe that the small leak should effect tuning. Says it the "nature of the beast." I enjoy his videos on Homelites and figured he might have some input.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hmmmmm. No I didn't. Will do so today and let u know.
Picked up this clean 360 a few weeks ago as a non runner. It would pop off on prime and rev out so I knew it needed an intake boot. Went through it today and replaced the broken intake boot, all new fuel and oil lines, fuel filter and added the NOS Suhihara 24" bar I had lying around. Think she cleaned up well and is a good runner.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Reinstalled clutch, etc. Helped somewhat., Think I'll go the Green Loctite route. Update once it arrives.
Alaskan Stihl
ArboristSite Operative
Homelite EZ (serial number reflects it is a 1981 vintage):
Went ahead and purchased this saw ($60). Looks in decent shape, but the guy said it is difficult to start and could use a Carburetor Cleaning. I took off the cowling and it looked pretty simple to remove....
But looks can be deceiving....So, before I tear something up...best just to ask for any tips or advice!
For starters, I removed the cotter key and choke (just unplugged it and moved out of the way). I also noticed that there are (2) screws attached that attaches to the carburetor (inside the airbox compartment)...and, although they are in a oddball place (needed small wrench to unscrew them), I unthreaded them...although there is no way to remove them until the carburetor is out.
Ok, I can deal with that....
Next up? Well I pretty much thought that after removing the (2) Carb screws that it should've loosened right up and wiggled out...
Apparently NOT...
So, my guess is that I need to remove the (3) Reed Block Screws (or whatever they are called)? Or do I need to remove the (2) Screws that are threaded in (One screw is inside the carburetor airbox and the other is outside the box). Do these (2 screws need to be removed first? Then remove the (3) Reed Block Screws? It almost looks like there is a gasket in between?
My guess is that I only need to remove the (3) Reed Block Screws and it will come out...although they are in a difficult place to say the least...
Like I say...I could easily grab a wrench and start unbolting everything...but best ask questions first...rather than having to order replacement parts later...
Thank you in advanced for advice and tips!!
Went ahead and purchased this saw ($60). Looks in decent shape, but the guy said it is difficult to start and could use a Carburetor Cleaning. I took off the cowling and it looked pretty simple to remove....
But looks can be deceiving....So, before I tear something up...best just to ask for any tips or advice!
For starters, I removed the cotter key and choke (just unplugged it and moved out of the way). I also noticed that there are (2) screws attached that attaches to the carburetor (inside the airbox compartment)...and, although they are in a oddball place (needed small wrench to unscrew them), I unthreaded them...although there is no way to remove them until the carburetor is out.
Ok, I can deal with that....
Next up? Well I pretty much thought that after removing the (2) Carb screws that it should've loosened right up and wiggled out...
Apparently NOT...
So, my guess is that I need to remove the (3) Reed Block Screws (or whatever they are called)? Or do I need to remove the (2) Screws that are threaded in (One screw is inside the carburetor airbox and the other is outside the box). Do these (2 screws need to be removed first? Then remove the (3) Reed Block Screws? It almost looks like there is a gasket in between?
My guess is that I only need to remove the (3) Reed Block Screws and it will come out...although they are in a difficult place to say the least...
Like I say...I could easily grab a wrench and start unbolting everything...but best ask questions first...rather than having to order replacement parts later...
Thank you in advanced for advice and tips!!
Alaskan Stihl
ArboristSite Operative
False Alarm!
I discovered the issue was that the gasket in between the Carburetor and Reed Block was stuck pretty darn good. I pried up with just a pinch more leverage and it gave up (and most importantly, I didn't break anything...other than a torn gasket that I can make).
We are off to the races now!
I discovered the issue was that the gasket in between the Carburetor and Reed Block was stuck pretty darn good. I pried up with just a pinch more leverage and it gave up (and most importantly, I didn't break anything...other than a torn gasket that I can make).
We are off to the races now!
Leon is a good guy and been around a long time. Has a ton of helpful YouTube videos and just happens to have added a recent EZ teardown and rebuild. I'm sure you'll find it helpful -- or should if you're patient enough. He also has a stash of parts at reasonable prices and is always worth checking if you're in need of something.
I like Leon but hate his oil philosophy.
