Why all the hassle for the seal?
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Newest addition. Had to add fuel and pull it about 6 times. It had supposedly sat for the last 30ish years.
Very nice saw and good for you! Did you find that locally in the Roanoke area? Love the full wrap handle, its in very nice condition. Best, Max.
It came from the west coast. Big saws are difficult to find around here, though I did turn up a Homelite 750 with a CL wanted ad.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Het guys. Have an old Homelite XL Auto that uses oil tank pressure to pump. Missing the bronze piece that the duckbill valve attaches. What are the alternatives to this brass sinter(sp)?
I didn't know the little XLs had the cap with the sintered bronze fitting.Alternatives would be to get a new/used cap,or buy a new bronze fitting,part # 69454.It looks like Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair & Feebay are all out.Bob Johnson in Maryland,N.Y.will have them,607-638-9297.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
The bronze fitting actually attaches to a short breather line that is inserted just below the oil cap. The duckbill then attaches to the scintered fitting. To be honest, I’m not exactly sure how important it is. Maybe it’s only a conduit between the breather /vent line and the duckbill valve.
The bronze piece acts as a "filter" to allow air in & keep debris out & usually holds the duck bill in place.The duck bill allows air in as fuel/oil is used & prevents fuel/oil from leaking out.Without the duck bill a vacuum would form.
The sintered insert is supposed to function to allow tank pressure to bleed off to a certain extent (idle and after shutting off}. Else, it will leave a puddle after shutting off or when left in the hot sun. Briefly cracking the caps when finished will eliminate tank pressure just the same. I tend to do his regardless on machines using tank pressurized oiler systems.
Seals replaced.
Good little saw to have around.
Piotr Pakuła
ArboristSite Guru
which metric size fits best here?
Piotr Pakuła
ArboristSite Guru
ile cali ma prowadnica?
I ask again..., why all the hassle? The 58308 / 07021 seals are available if you're patient and/or know where to look..., and it's actually the one you need instead of just a 12282 which crosses to SKF 6119 and 6120..
Another good question. And why turn both the crank and bore for an available seal instead of just working the bore?
I think your asking about the bar and chain?
24" 3/8ths .050 Oregon Skip tooth.
Piotr Pakuła
ArboristSite Guru
I just saw that there is a long chain guide and the saw is doing quite well / our skip chain is difficult to get, unless somewhere abroad / and as for seals, if someone is processing them, I assumed that they are unavailable, sorry
16x24x5mm
I’m not paying thru the nose for an old and obsolete seal when I already have the saw completely disassembled and I have access to a lathe and mill, and I don’t think I need to bore the housing because 24mm is pretty damn close to .9375
I don’t have my notes, but as far as just doing the bore I couldn’t find a seal with the 21/32 shaft diameter and the O.D. that I liked as I didn’t want to be hogging a lot out of the bore.
With a readily available seal I don’t have to worry as much about messing it up when I reassemble and I’m getting a modern double lip seal w/garter spring.
Turning the crank to 16mm dia
So just your everyday weekend chainsaw hobbyist solution then, eh? LOL That's awesome, man.
Fwiw, I paid 6 bux apiece for my last few 58308s and they were like new. Still have a couple stashed away and wouldn't hesitate to use them in any application that required em. Maybe not typical, but why I asked.
Fwiw, I paid 6 bux apiece for my last few 58308s and they were like new. Still have a couple stashed away and wouldn't hesitate to use them in any application that required em. Maybe not typical, but why I asked.
Yeah everywhere I looked the seal was over $20 then more $ for shipping and I just couldn’t do it lol.
The thing that makes seals go bad is heat & wear without lube.I've seen 35-40 yr.old seals that look just like they came out of the factory.I don't know who came up with the concept that a new,unused 40 yr.old seal is no good.I'd sure have no fear of using one.As a matter of fact,while doing inventory recently I came across 5 new 58308B seals that I'd misplaced & there was absolutely nothing wrong with them,not "dry rotted" a bit.
