Homelite Chainsaws

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Here are a couple pictures of my new to me XP 1020 after I cleaned her up. Got great spark with the new plug but still not getting fuel flow. I guess cleaning the carb is next. I did fit it with a more appropriate bar. :rock:

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Nice saw man..... Got a couple myself, lol. Every one I have run across, the fuel line in the tank has turned to tar. Feel around for the fuel line through the fill hole in the tank. Bet it is not there. Best way to fix is to pull off the front half of the tank, clean up the tar with carb cleaner, and install a tygon line with a new filter. You can get an NOS gasket or make one for reassembly.
 
Manual oiler pump help.

Got any good tips on making the manual/thumb oiler pumps work?

I'm not having much luck.

I clean and inspect them for cut or worn 'O' rings, clean the check valve and strainer and flush the tank with mineral spirits. Tried both winter weight and summer weight bar oil. I have serveral Homies and Remingtons that just don't seem to put out. Mostly feel like I'm pumping air.

Both my 10-10's and my Pioneer 1200 work great.

I think I'll try pulling a vacum at the bar mount oiler hole next.
 
Got any good tips on making the manual/thumb oiler pumps work?

I'm not having much luck.

I clean and inspect them for cut or worn 'O' rings, clean the check valve and strainer and flush the tank with mineral spirits. Tried both winter weight and summer weight bar oil. I have serveral Homies and Remingtons that just don't seem to put out. Mostly feel like I'm pumping air.

Both my 10-10's and my Pioneer 1200 work great.

I think I'll try pulling a vacum at the bar mount oiler hole next.

Sounds like it is either a cut in the line, or a bad check valve. Best to check it out with the bar off, as you can then see the oil squirting out the hole.

If the oiler hole in the bar is not lined up right, it won't work either, but usually then the button won't push easily.
 
It's now obvious to me why the SXL-AO is so popular. One hell of a good saw. I got mine yesterday, made in 1975.

How would an SXL stack up against a Mac 10-10? More displacement, but that's not everything.
 
It's now obvious to me why the SXL-AO is so popular. One hell of a good saw. I got mine yesterday, made in 1975.

How would an SXL stack up against a Mac 10-10? More displacement, but that's not everything.

It would all depend on the condition and tuning of each saw. Both saws are great saws, I've owned both for some time and am equally impressed by them. I can't believe how much both companies have digressed from the time they made these fine saws..

I guess if you really wanted to run a test on the two saws you could find a 10-10S which has the displacement of the Super XL and I'm guessing the Mac would win but not sure. Again, it's the actual two saws you would be testing and they would both have to be freshly rebuilt, same type bar and chain, etc. I have both saws and it feels like the 10-10S is more powerful but I've never actually tested them against each other.
 
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It's now obvious to me why the SXL-AO is so popular. One hell of a good saw. I got mine yesterday, made in 1975.

How would an SXL stack up against a Mac 10-10? More displacement, but that's not everything.

It would all depend on the condition and tuning of each saw. Both saws are great saws, I've owned both for some time and am equally impressed by them. I can't believe how much both companies have digressed from the time they made these fine saws..

I guess if you really wanted to run a test on the two saws you could find a 10-10S which has the displacement of the Super XL and I'm guessing the Mac would win but not sure. Again, it's the actual two saws you would be testing and they would both have to be freshly rebuilt, same type bar and chain, etc. I have both saws and it feels like the 10-10S is more powerful but I've never actually tested them against each other.

I agree with everything you said A. P. The saw condition and chain setup would be the determining factors. If those variables could be eliminated (dificult), then it'd be very close. The outcome also would depend on which exact saw models you were comparing. With Meatsaw's original question ('regular' 10-10 vs SXL-AO), I think the 10-10 would just edge the SXL out in smaller wood, while the SXL would just edge out the 10-10 in larger wood. In my experience, the 10-10 has more top end, while the SXL has a tad more grunt. Both are excelent saws.

An XL-12 is also around 54cc, so is a closer match to a 10-10 in that regard. There were two versions of the 54cc XL-12 made. Those with the 'flat' reed, and those that had the 'pyramid reed' setup from the SXL. I've never seen a pyramid reed equipped XL-12 in person, but I have an IPL that lists XL-12's "with pyramid reed system" along with SXL-AO's. It's a later IPL. The non pyramid reed XL-12 sas (and the 58cc Super XL-12 saws, which also have a flat reed) run out of steam on the high end when compared to an SXL-AO (or I'd presume an XL-12) with a pyramid reed setup. It's quite noticible. For that reason, I'd say a 'standard' 10-10 woud best a non pyramid reed XL-12 without problem. A pyramid reed equipped XL-12 would be much closer.

The XL-12/SXL-AO saws are lighter and more handy than a 10-10 in my opinion. They also have a much less iritating sound and the vibes are less bothersome to me than the 10-10 (both very subjective I admit). I prefer running the Homelites to the 54cc 10-10 saws. I've never ran a 57cc 10-10S so I can't comment on how they'd stack up against an SXL-AO. I just have ran the 54cc 10-10 saws and the larger 70cc variants. The 70cc McCulloch 10-series saws "sound better" and the vibes "feel better" than the 54cc 10-series saws to me. Again............very subjective. The 70cc 10-series saws also don't weigh much (if any) more than the 54/57cc versions, yet have significantly more power and are just as reliable. For me, I choose the Homelites for the 60cc class work (with 16"-20" bars) and the McCullochs for the 70cc class stuff (with 20"-24" bars). The 70cc+ versions of the Homelite saws (XL400A and XL500A) weren't successful. They had a tendancy to beat themselves to death from what I've gathered from old saw shops and other folks that have ran them. I've never even seen a runner of either saw in person. Just a few dead (but still nice looking) XL400A's. Never seen an XL500A at all except for in pictures. I'd like to compare a good running XL400A against my PM700 someday. I'd also like to compare a good running XL400A AND XL500A against a good running Poulan 245A.
 
gots reed thingies.
Kinda off at the moment, still at work, about to complete my 18th hour.

I like reed thingees. Been there on the strung out, 17+ hour work day thing. Sucks. Better walk home or have Annie pick you up. Wouldn't want you to mess up your new paiint in a sleep deprivation induced accident. BTDT. Sent you a PM regarding our ongoing discussions.......
 
Looks like someone beat me to the fuel line sometime recently. Ordered the carb kit so will work on it next week. Is the Tygon fuel line better than this gray stuff that is on the saw at the moment?

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Looks like someone beat me to the fuel line sometime recently. Ordered the carb kit so will work on it next week. Is the Tygon fuel line better than this gray stuff that is on the saw at the moment?

New is better than old, though that stuff looks OK from here. Stretch it, look for signs of checking, where it starts to crack and come apart. Also have put a vacuum to them, 2-3 lbs. worth, to see if they'll collapse or hold the vacuum.
 
I agree with everything you said A. P. The saw condition and chain setup would be the determining factors. If those variables could be eliminated (dificult), then it'd be very close. The outcome also would depend on which exact saw models you were comparing. With Meatsaw's original question ('regular' 10-10 vs SXL-AO), I think the 10-10 would just edge the SXL out in smaller wood, while the SXL would just edge out the 10-10 in larger wood. In my experience, the 10-10 has more top end, while the SXL has a tad more grunt. Both are excelent saws.

An XL-12 is also around 54cc, so is a closer match to a 10-10 in that regard. There were two versions of the 54cc XL-12 made. Those with the 'flat' reed, and those that had the 'pyramid reed' setup from the SXL. I've never seen a pyramid reed equipped XL-12 in person, but I have an IPL that lists XL-12's "with pyramid reed system" along with SXL-AO's. It's a later IPL. The non pyramid reed XL-12 sas (and the 58cc Super XL-12 saws, which also have a flat reed) run out of steam on the high end when compared to an SXL-AO (or I'd presume an XL-12) with a pyramid reed setup. It's quite noticible. For that reason, I'd say a 'standard' 10-10 woud best a non pyramid reed XL-12 without problem. A pyramid reed equipped XL-12 would be much closer.

The XL-12/SXL-AO saws are lighter and more handy than a 10-10 in my opinion. They also have a much less iritating sound and the vibes are less bothersome to me than the 10-10 (both very subjective I admit). I prefer running the Homelites to the 54cc 10-10 saws. I've never ran a 57cc 10-10S so I can't comment on how they'd stack up against an SXL-AO. I just have ran the 54cc 10-10 saws and the larger 70cc variants. The 70cc McCulloch 10-series saws "sound better" and the vibes "feel better" than the 54cc 10-series saws to me. Again............very subjective. The 70cc 10-series saws also don't weigh much (if any) more than the 54/57cc versions, yet have significantly more power and are just as reliable. For me, I choose the Homelites for the 60cc class work (with 16"-20" bars) and the McCullochs for the 70cc class stuff (with 20"-24" bars). The 70cc+ versions of the Homelite saws (XL400A and XL500A) weren't successful. They had a tendancy to beat themselves to death from what I've gathered from old saw shops and other folks that have ran them. I've never even seen a runner of either saw in person. Just a few dead (but still nice looking) XL400A's. Never seen an XL500A at all except for in pictures. I'd like to compare a good running XL400A against my PM700 someday. I'd also like to compare a good running XL400A AND XL500A against a good running Poulan 245A.

I've got a fairly good sized maple tree that needs to come down this next Fall so I will get the chance to do a few comparisons, although the bar and chains will be different. I have a Homelite XL12, a couple of Super XLAO, and a VI944. My Macs are 10-10, 10-10S,PM700, PM55, 1-40 and 1-42. I also have a Homelite C5, a Zip and a Buz, but don't think they're running well enough for a comparison. I'm still looking for a bigger Mac saw but the local places haven't had one yet. Forgot to mention, I do have a good running 245 Poulan but it's the orange Dayton version.
 
I agree with everything you said A. P. The saw condition and chain setup would be the determining factors. If those variables could be eliminated (dificult), then it'd be very close. The outcome also would depend on which exact saw models you were comparing. With Meatsaw's original question ('regular' 10-10 vs SXL-AO), I think the 10-10 would just edge the SXL out in smaller wood, while the SXL would just edge out the 10-10 in larger wood. In my experience, the 10-10 has more top end, while the SXL has a tad more grunt. Both are excelent saws.

An XL-12 is also around 54cc, so is a closer match to a 10-10 in that regard. There were two versions of the 54cc XL-12 made. Those with the 'flat' reed, and those that had the 'pyramid reed' setup from the SXL. I've never seen a pyramid reed equipped XL-12 in person, but I have an IPL that lists XL-12's "with pyramid reed system" along with SXL-AO's. It's a later IPL. The non pyramid reed XL-12 sas (and the 58cc Super XL-12 saws, which also have a flat reed) run out of steam on the high end when compared to an SXL-AO (or I'd presume an XL-12) with a pyramid reed setup. It's quite noticible. For that reason, I'd say a 'standard' 10-10 woud best a non pyramid reed XL-12 without problem. A pyramid reed equipped XL-12 would be much closer.

The XL-12/SXL-AO saws are lighter and more handy than a 10-10 in my opinion. They also have a much less iritating sound and the vibes are less bothersome to me than the 10-10 (both very subjective I admit). I prefer running the Homelites to the 54cc 10-10 saws. I've never ran a 57cc 10-10S so I can't comment on how they'd stack up against an SXL-AO. I just have ran the 54cc 10-10 saws and the larger 70cc variants. The 70cc McCulloch 10-series saws "sound better" and the vibes "feel better" than the 54cc 10-series saws to me. Again............very subjective. The 70cc 10-series saws also don't weigh much (if any) more than the 54/57cc versions, yet have significantly more power and are just as reliable. For me, I choose the Homelites for the 60cc class work (with 16"-20" bars) and the McCullochs for the 70cc class stuff (with 20"-24" bars). The 70cc+ versions of the Homelite saws (XL400A and XL500A) weren't successful. They had a tendancy to beat themselves to death from what I've gathered from old saw shops and other folks that have ran them. I've never even seen a runner of either saw in person. Just a few dead (but still nice looking) XL400A's. Never seen an XL500A at all except for in pictures. I'd like to compare a good running XL400A against my PM700 someday. I'd also like to compare a good running XL400A AND XL500A against a good running Poulan 245A.

You could also compare the PM700 or a 7-10 against the Poulan 245 and the XL400 or 500. That might be interesting.
 
Well when I get a 20" bar and chain for my SXL I will go ahead and compare my own saws (SXL-AO vs. Pro 10-10A) and let you guys see the results. Just based off of cutting with the 10-10 and checking function of my SXL sans B&C I would have to agree with Aaron with his prediction. Now if only this bar and chain would show up...
 
I've got a fairly good sized maple tree that needs to come down this next Fall so I will get the chance to do a few comparisons, although the bar and chains will be different. I have a Homelite XL12, a couple of Super XLAO, and a VI944. My Macs are 10-10, 10-10S,PM700, PM55, 1-40 and 1-42. I also have a Homelite C5, a Zip and a Buz, but don't think they're running well enough for a comparison. I'm still looking for a bigger Mac saw but the local places haven't had one yet. Forgot to mention, I do have a good running 245 Poulan but it's the orange Dayton version.

My 245 is also an orange Dayton version. Not back in running condition yet. I also will have a green 245A.......but that won't be a runner for a while yet either.

You could also compare the PM700 or a 7-10 against the Poulan 245 and the XL400 or 500. That might be interesting.

Yep.......if I can get my hands on good running XL400A and XL500A Homelites. Missed a few on feebay (outbid) over the last few years.

Well when I get a 20" bar and chain for my SXL I will go ahead and compare my own saws (SXL-AO vs. Pro 10-10A) and let you guys see the results. Just based off of cutting with the 10-10 and checking function of my SXL sans B&C I would have to agree with Aaron with his prediction. Now if only this bar and chain would show up...

Do I detect a subtle hint? I haven't gotten to the shed to dig out your parts yet. Got stuck doing honey-do stuff today. I do know that I don't have any spair 20" chains that aren't safety chain. You're gonna want to get a fresh 70DL 3/8-.050 loop.
 

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