Don't worry about it.I only told you what I knew,Sorry,I didn't want to come off as overbearing,or a know-it-all.I just have this uncanny ability to remember stuff.
Homelite EZ auto
- Thread starter Jasonrkba
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Eric howes
ArboristSite Operative
No worries, no offense taken
We used Super EZ's for our climbing saws till the Poulan XXV's came out. All of ours were 16" bars. I'm sure they will pull a 20. I have one I just saved from the scrapper and it is a loud little bugger. But my Super 1050 with a brand new factory muffler is a LOT louder. That's why I'm almost deaf on my right side, the first thing we did was gut the mufflers to ring out the last CC of power. Yes, Ed, the later ones were 41 CC's (40.9). Back then I don't remember one having an edge over the other, but side by side now you may see something, Joe
Poulan micro XXV is what has the 10 inch B/C. Seems you can no longer get the HDC4 carborator anymore just the rebuild kits I've had mixed results with rebuilding them. Could someone confirm which kit I should buy. I'm looking at the k-10 HDC.
Sorry I can't help. We never used the Micro's, we had the 25's and XXV's with the 14 inch bar and they were one of the first high revving saws we used. I'm still keeping an eye open for one. Good luck with the Micro, Joe.
As far as I know that should be the right kit Joe.I've rerbuilt a half dozen of them recently.I just bought a replacement carb overr on chainsawr for $19.95,it looks brand new,but I know it's not.I was in contact with the owner of Lil'red barn who sells on Ebay,he's looking for a new replacement carb he might have.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
"Grr" the later ones with the "leccy" lasts 20 mins in most cases blue coij I much prefer the all metal model
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oregon list a Armour tip 18" bar with 095 mount any bar with that mount #will fit I "modded & rim sprocket & bar tip to run 3/8 Lo Pro chain & it cuts extremely well especially noodling I rn a 16" bar & 59 Dl 1.3 chain
Yeah, 16" bar and 3/8 chain is what's on most of them. I have one that's an 18 with .325 chain but it bogs down a bit because I couldn't find a sprocket with the right amount of teeth. I think mine is 9 or 10 tooth and it's just too big, still looking for a 7 or 8 tooth sprocket that will fit..
Ok guys. I have another question. The gas cap was leaking when the saw is tilted. I replaced the old cork gasket with an O ring but I'm still leaking from the old vent. I pulled it out and it was pretty gummed up. Do they still sell replacement vents or can I replace it with something else. Here is a picture.
Edit: After watching a YouTube video isee there is supposed to be a duckbill behind that plug so I'm guessing the large orange ones they sell on eBay should work. I crushed that plug a little bit trying to tap it in before I knew what needed to be done. Should I replace it?
Thanks. Jason.
Edit: After watching a YouTube video isee there is supposed to be a duckbill behind that plug so I'm guessing the large orange ones they sell on eBay should work. I crushed that plug a little bit trying to tap it in before I knew what needed to be done. Should I replace it?
Thanks. Jason.
You need to clean out where that bronze sintered fitting was in the cap.It'll be full of black goo,that's what's left of the old duckbill.Then you'll need to put a new duckbill back in.You can buy the duckbills on Ebay fairly cheap if you shop around.I got a bag of ten duckbills for $12.95 w/free shipping.Yeah,that's a lot of duckbills,but most likely you'll need one for the oil cap too,& maybe you've got more than one Homelite saw,or you have a friend who can use a couple.You can also buy lesser quantities too.Use a Q-Tip to clean out the old black goo with some alcohol.
Edju1958 thank you for the reply. I was editing at the same time. I crushed that brass plug a little bit taping it in before I knew what to do. Should I replace it and do they sell them?
Thanks. Jason.
Thanks. Jason.
If you tape it in it won't be able to breathe.It's important that the cap be able to breathe because this is how air gets into the tank as the gas is used.The duckbill prevents the gas from leaking out,but let's the air in.I looked on Ebay & didn't find any sintered bronze fittings for Homelite gas caps.It might be a good idea to replace the entire gas cap,but chances are that if you get a used gas cap you'll have the same situation where you'll have to pry out the bronze sintered fitting & replace the duckbill again.The SEZ's had many different styles of gas caps,but the good news is that they're all interchangeable.I think your best bet at this point is to find a NOS gas cap & take it as a lesson learned.Don't feel bad,I do the same foolish things myself & I'm sure there are a lot of other members here who do the same thing.This is how we learn though - from our mistakes.The new cap is part # A-69500-A
Ed
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-HO...702442&hash=item2cd1d5517f:g:~bMAAOSwp3JawQKr
Ed
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-HO...702442&hash=item2cd1d5517f:g:~bMAAOSwp3JawQKr
Jason,I did find the bronze filter that you need on Ebay.The Homelite PN:69454
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Homelite-F...337057?hash=item3617f79b21:g:fWYAAOSwcB5ZExoH
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Homelite-F...337057?hash=item3617f79b21:g:fWYAAOSwcB5ZExoH
Awsome! Thank you.
chainsawlady
Junior Member
Jasonrkba
The replacement number for the bronze plug 69454 is UP--5998. I have some available.
chainsawlady
The replacement number for the bronze plug 69454 is UP--5998. I have some available.
chainsawlady
Jason,Buy what you need from chainsawlady.She comes highly recommended by myself & others as well.Just PM her & she'll take care of you.
Ed
Ed
Good news. I had a bag of the little green duckbills in the shop and they work. Also the bronze piece also works. Now I just need to rebuild the carb. Not bad for a 45 year old saw. I also had to restring the starter. Very different setup, it actually seems like a better design than what the current saws use. I'm looking forward to hearing this thing purr. I sold my other vintage Homelite (big red) a while back and regret it. These old saws seem to really run well.
Rebuilt the carb today and no luck. It screams at WOT but will not idle properly. At first the carb was leaking through the throat so I played with the needle until it would seal. It is definitely still flooding a little bit because even at WOT it's spitting out the muffler but at least it's not draining the tank while sitting in the basement.. It will run with the needles turned all the way in on WOT so something is wrong. At this point I would really prefer to replace the carburetor. Does anyone know of a replacement for the Walbro HDC4?
Thanks. Jason
PS The gas cap works great.
Thanks. Jason
PS The gas cap works great.
Jason,I don't think a new carb is going to resolve your issues.Besides that you're going to find it next to impossible to get a new HDC4 Walbro carb.I had to get another used one last month & the only place I found a USED one was on Chainsawr.Even getting another used one may require you to rebuild it.I'm going through a similar problem with a carb I rebuilt on an SEZ,but mine isn't flooding out like yours.It could be one of two things with yours - the metering lever isn't set correctly.I know you don't want to hear this,but take the carb back off & take it apart again,make sure that the metering lever is level with the base plate,also make sure that the needle valve is working freely where it's not getting hung up on something.Did you get a complete rebuild kit,or just a gasket kit?Also,did you use the correct metering plate gasket?The HDC rebuild kits usually give two different gaskets.I was rebulding a carb about a month ago & my son was helping me.I took out the old gasket & noticed that whoever had rebuilt the carb previously had put the wrong gasket in there.My son not knowing grabbed the same one & I told him to hold on because I thought it wasn't the right gasket.Sure enough it was the wrong gasket.These little carbs are a PITA,& they're very sensitive.If everything checks out & is working properly & there is no dirt in any of the passages it could be that your issue is not in the carb,but rather the reed valve.What you are describing is classic symptoms of a reed valve problem,but let's not go there just yet.If it is a reed valve,a new carb would be of no use,you'd only be throwing your money away.Let's eliminate the carb first though.Take your time & be patient.Hurrying through something can only cause problems down the road.If you run into a problem ask.No one is going to laugh at you ,or think any less of you if you ask for help.The only stupid question is one that's not asked.Good luck.I'll be waiting for your report.
Ed
Ed
