homelite xl-924

[visor]

I'm new at this so be a little tolerant if I screw up. I need to tap into your expertise and knowledge. I have an xl-924 that won't run and it's been diagnosed as having ignition problems. I so far have not been able to find new ignition so I bought a 925 on e-bay. I figured I'd steal the ignition off of it and also the carb and save the rest for spare parts. Getting the flywheel off looks like it could pose a problem and won't I need some new gaskets for bolting the carb back on. One more thing, what is the difference between the 924 and the 925 and why does the 924 have a compression release and the 925 doesn't? Thanks in advance I've already got a lot of information from all of you.

 

[sedanman]

For obsolete Homelite parts contact Hawkins Brothers in Shelbina, Mo (573)588-4731 . They are experts with older Homelites.

 

[visor]

Thanks Sedanman I'll try them. I checked out their website and got their business hours. It's to bad you can't order parts online my hours make it hard to call them during the week. John in MA actually told me about them some while ago, he's the one that told me about this site. I'm still curious about the differences between the 924 and 925.

 

[Tony Snyder]

Whatever you do in trying to get that flywheel off, do not remove the nut and jar the flywheel with sharp 45 degrees downword impact opposite the key with a thin hardwood piece between the flywheel body and your hammer. Do not hit on a fin but on the meaty part of the casting. Remember do not do this. It is a risky practice, and I cannot in good conscience recommend it as a common shop practice.

However, I have removed a lot of flywheels, and have only had problems when trying to improvise pullers not engineered for the application

 

[oakman]

the puller i use on 90% of my saws is commonly called a steering wheel puller, available at most auto parts stores for around 20 bucks, and will usually come with an assortment of bolts, however you can get any bolt you need at the hardware, i get grade 8 if i can. most older saws will have 2 or 3 threaded holes around the center hole. these are used to pull the flywheel, you just need to find bolts that fit and are long enough to go through the puller hub and all the way into the flywheel. i like to use a 3/8 impact wrench on the low setting on the puller bolt. not enough torque to damage anything, (usually!) but the vibration from the impact will pop even the most stubborn flywheels off. occasionally i will heat around the center of the flywheel with a heat gun, if it looks like its really stuck, but you must be careful not to damage the seals or ignition components. i usually only do this as a last resort, but it has worked on some stubborn flywheels. i work on some old saws that haven't been apart for maybe 30 years or more, and this method always works for me. hammering, or wedging, or prying is asking for more trouble than you had before.

 

[John in MA]

I did variations of the knock method for a while, but my life's been much happier since I made puller. Just a plate of 1/2" aluminum with lots of holes drilled and tapped in it.

Now, about the 924 vs. 925. I'm not a tech, nor do I have any technical documents. I've also never seen the two side by side. The XL-924 was the last saw in the XL-700/800/900 line. Each model got larger and larger as the series went. The XL-924 was updated at some point and became the Super XL-925. They are both 5.01 CID and I presume of the same power rating. FWIW, this saw later became the VI-944/955. I'm not sure why the 924 has a decomp when the 925 doesn't, but I guess there was a reason for removing it. There are probably other updates in the 925 that only someone with more info than I can tell you about.

And the ignition: Both of these saws were available either with a Wico points system or an early R.E. Phelon (Repco) solid-state type. The two are not interchangeable without swapping flywheels and crankcase sides. I have an SXL-925 with Wico, as do most of them. I also have an XL-98A demolition saw (same engine) with the Repco, so I know the difference.

Good luck in your quest. By the way, anyone have a parts blowup for the SXL-925? I've been making do with one from the XL-98 and a VI-955.

 

[BillW]

John
I have copies of the SXL925 illustrated Parts Manual available.
I'm not positive but the compression releif valve may be the only difference between the 2 madels.

 

[visor]

Thank's everyone for you responses and information. Let me run this by you. When I compare the spark from the 925 I bought to the spark on the 924 they appear to be equal. I checked it by pulling the plug and laying it on the muffler and then pulling the rope. Can I draw the conclusion that the my problem isn't ignition but carburation from this? That 924 sat for close to ten years without being run. It did try really hard to start before I took it in to the saw shop. I don't really want to strip parts off of that 925 if all I really need is carb rebuild to get the 924 going. I don't have a problem with having both of those saws working and usable.

 

[John in MA]

It sat for ten years have you haven't rebuilt the carb? First thing to do with an old saw. I usually rebuild the carb before even trying to run one. 99% of your old saw problems are due to hard carb diaphragms. After you're done rebuilding, tune it up properly and you'll have an unstoppable old Homelite.

Good luck.

 

[John in MA]

Visor, in case you have haven't seen mine:

Don't say it, guys...

 

[visor]

I've seen it before and I'm jealous. You gotta love them old saws.

Weren't you supposed to cut that piano? Just askin'