How do you file the propriety husqvarna chains

[Mad Professor]

I remember being forced to watch a Stihl update video in lieu of going to a school. The guys in the video were wearng thick gloves while they were servicing a carb. Was given a stern look by the dealership owner when I started laughing and joking.

I also had a customer that refused to touch a chain without putting on thick leather gloves, had to tease him a bit too!

Well, working chain with a file I know my knuckles are happier with some gloves on.

There was a day back when, and I had thick callouses from doing farm work, that barbed wire didn't bother me much. That was 40hrs week/$100

AND, I was was a US Citizen willing to do the work. I didn't sit in my basement with an ipod all summer

 

[Philbert]

The term 'safety chain' or 'green label' was severely damaged when early designs were clumsy, slow, poor chains with low performance.

I was cleaning up storm damage yesterday with a STIHL MS261, and throwing big chips. The saw belonged to one of my volunteer disaster groups. When I went to touch up the cutters after 2 tanks of fuel, I noted that it was semi-chisel, low-kickback chain, with the old style, triple-humped tie strap bumpers. Works fine for me if you sharpen them correctly.

If you are cutting old, hard, dried, wood, you will be cutting slow no matter what chain you have.

Philbert

 

[HarleyT]

I had thick callouses and hair on my palms

 

[HarleyT]

If there had been an internet back then,

I likely wouldn't have survived....

 

[Mad Professor]

I was cleaning up storm damage yesterday with a STIHL MS261, and throwing big chips. The saw belonged to one of my volunteer disaster groups. When I went to touch up the cutters after 2 tanks of fuel, I noted that it was semi-chisel, low-kickback chain, with the old style, triple-humped tie strap bumpers. Works fine for me if you sharpen them correctly.

If you are cutting old, hard, dried, wood, you will be cutting slow no matter what chain you have.

Philbert

And how long could you file rakers down until the cuters no longer were above them?

I use my chains until 1 or 2 cutters break off, and they still cut great, even my milling chains. A safety chain is a PITA or a throw away when cutters still have 1/2-1/3 life left.

When I learned to file chains, I had a round file with a end of limb, for a handle,and a flat file for rakers. Never used ANY sort of guide. That was when I was a 13 year old, using a Super XL Auto. 1970s. Back when Carlton was good chain, not Blount/Oregon/Huskey.

Guides are a crutch for those that can't hand file well.

 

[Philbert]

Guides are a crutch for those that can't hand file well.

Hey, I'm a chain grinder guy first! You can't embarrass me with comments on file guides!

I LIKE file guides when I am not grinding: 1.) for consistency, and 2.) because they give me something to hold the file with! Don't need a sharp tangs sticking into my palms to impress anyone! I collect them for fun and have a few dozen, for comparison.

Seriously, my mantra has consistently been: 'Everyone needs to find something that works for them'. I am not offended if they grind, Dremel, free-hand file, use elaborate contraptions, or pay someone else to sharpen. Not my concern. I DO get heart pain when they toss them out when dull (at least post them on CL or eBay for others).

A lot of guys think that they can free-hand file well: you may well be part of that group that can can. A lot of guys mess up a chain (often blaming it on being 'Safety Chain', or some other excuse). Especially in the field. That's why I started my 'Chain Challenge' thread: to show that many (most?) chains that folks say are 'ruined', can be brought back, by following some basics. A grinder really helps there.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

Philbert

 

[Mad Professor]

Hey, I'm a chain grinder guy first! You can't embarrass me with comments on file guides!

I LIKE file guides when I am not grinding: 1.) for consistency, and 2.) because they give me something to hold the file with! Don't need a sharp tangs sticking into my palms to impress anyone! I collect them for fun and have a few dozen, for comparison.

Seriously, my mantra has consistently been: 'Everyone needs to find something that works for them'. I am not offended if they grind, Dremel, free-hand file, used elaborate contraptions, or pay someone else to sharpen. Not my concern. I DO get heart pain when they toss them out when dull (at least post them on CL or eBay for others).

A lot of guys think that they can free-hand file well: may well be part of that group that can can. A lot of guys mess up a chain (often blaming it on being 'Safety Chain') or some other excuse. Especially in the field. That's why I started my 'Chain Challenge' thread: to show that many (most?) chains that folks say are 'ruined', can be brought back, by following some basics. A grinder really helps there.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

Philbert

When I get my Nikon fixed, I'll take some pictures of a 33 RS chain dull and filed, by hand with no guides by me. Just using a file with a round handle. The handle is a piece of branch, the tang fits well into the pith.

If it is a nice day I'll do it on a stump in the woods.

 

[Philbert]

When I get my Nikon fixed, I'll take some pictures of a 33 RS chain dull and filed, by hand with no guides by me. Just using a file with a round handle.

I have no doubt.

But look in my 'Challenge Chain' thread and see what others do to a chain with a file!

Philbert

 

[Mad Professor]

I had thick callouses and hair on my palms

How long to let the hair grow back?

 

[Mad Professor]

I have no doubt.

But look in my 'Challenge Chain' thread and see what others do to a chain with a file!

Philbert

Then why ya need a grinder unless you are a rock hound?

 

[HarleyT]

All of this bragging is fine from youse guys,
but I don't believe untill I see some pics!!!!!!

 

[HarleyT]

I am a grinder guy, cause I worked on saws. I never gave filing much of a try.
I see a lot of chitty work done by a file.

The same goes with a grinder too.

But either way CAN give great results, but you have to know what you are trying to achieve....

 

[TRTermite]

I have hand filed chains since the late 60's I don't mind using a file guide now that my eyesight is waning for that up close detail. I have learned a lot from members on this site.
Some things not to do are as important as how to do ..
Saw Troll (as Philbert said good to see your posts again) mentioned the kerf on Stihl chain is the same and (Post #24)only the DLs' are swaged to the gauge. I saw this on a post by Philbert with pics and I ponder why I would want to use .058 when .063 would have more contact surface DL to rim/spur,, other than the trivial amount of weight/mass the saw wouldn't be moving.

 

[Philbert]

. . . I ponder why I would want to use .058 when .063 would have more contact surface DL to rim/spur,, other than the trivial amount of weight/mass the saw wouldn't be moving.

Some things, like these gauges, are legacies; they don't necessarily make sense.

Philbert

 

[Mad Professor]

All of this bragging is fine from youse guys,
but I don't believe untill I see some pics!!!!!!

Of your palms!!! unshaven!!!!!

 

[Mad Professor]

All of this bragging is fine from youse guys,
but I don't believe untill I see some pics!!!!!!

We can't post those here Harley! We'll she could do that........

 

[CR888]

The downside for me when using a grinder for work chains is months will pass quick and I haven't touched a file. Those precise motor skills and muscle memory degrade fast, holding the file dead straight stroke after stroke becomes tricky. I was a bit embarrassed looking at a pole saw chain I did the other night just to get a file back in my hands.

 

[SawTroll]

The term 'safety chain' or 'green label' was severely damaged when early designs were clumsy, slow, poor chains with low performance. Today 'safety' chain is a different beast, has changed fornthe better, it cuts fast & performs well. Most types of cutting, its not much different to 'yellow' chain. But try to convince anyone of this is VERY difficult. Especially the new to saws guy with a ms180 he thinks is a competition hotsaw that needs 'more aggressive' chain.

Surely there has been some improvement regarding "green" chain models that are available. It isn't totally black/white though, there were good ones (in the "green" chain context) around 20+ years ago as well (only one (Oregon) design though, used on a few models - unless you regard Vanguard as a good one).
The main design feature of todays "green" Stihl chain is copied from that Oregon design - although they overdid it a bit (made the chain "greener" than they need to be) by also keeping part of their own earlier design (the large rakers).

Most chain models (for chainsaws) today have some "kickback reduction" feature built in - "green" or "yellow" classification is a rather coarse system for placing chain models in two groups. Some models may be close to the "borderline", others far away from it (on either side). The classification says nothing about this (or about to what extent deviation from recommended cutter angles and raker settings changes the classification).

 

[SawTroll]

I'd post a link to the site where I copied these but I'm not sure if that is O.K.? A good Canadian Man started the thread.

View attachment 762690 View attachment 762691 View attachment 762692 Pictures will tell the whole story.....

That actually looks promising - but the (important) question that remains is if it is narrow enough to be fully compatible with Narrow Kerf (NK) bars from other brands on all saws, and of course if Stihl will start making NK bars for it - or if it actually is meant for regular .050 .325 bars, but has narrower cutters than traditional 23 RS, RM etc (somewhat like regular Oregon etc in both .050 and .058, that cuts a narrower kerf that the .063 counterparts).

Regardless, it is an interesting development.

 

[Mad Professor]

That actually looks promising - but the (important) question that remains is if it is narrow enough to be fully compatible with Narrow Kerf (NK) bars from other brands on all saws, and of course if Stihl will start making NK bars for it - or if it actually is meant for regular .050 .325 bars, but has narrower cutters than traditional 23 RS, RM etc (somewhat like regular Oregon etc in both .050 and .058, that cuts a narrower kerf that the .063 counterparts).

Regardless, it is an interesting development.

Word is that it will work on NK bars.

Woodland makes those on 3003 stihl mount

WoodlandPro Narrow Kerf Bars

#WPNK 16 SS50
#WPNK 18 SS50
#WPNK 20 SS50