how do you guys chunk big wood?

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We run a O66 with 3/8 chain on 36" bar (I think that's the right sizes) mostly for falling,after I kept blowing up the 088.
We will haul this up a tree if we have to. Anything bigger needs a crane or halving or 1/4ing.
IMHO.....
 
"Personally, I am into production, and do not have the time to mess around with that much safety stuff. "

Who said that ?:eek: :eek:

:cool: Yeh I hear you! and I agree that you may be able too do what you say quiet skillfully but who is watching you?
It might be Forest
I trying more an more to double tie in when chainsawing an use both hands on the saw more.
Especially after reading Jeff Jeptson account in The Tree Climbing Companion.
No one is compelled to use New Standards, I don't think, but it makes sense to try.
But old habits die hard hopefully before we pass them on or they kill us.
Boy I am being a bit opinionated latley!! :rolleyes:
 
i'm always trying to figure how to recycle stuff, feel bad about throwing away a polesaw blade etc., cuz i know that it can be used for something somewhere inteligently.

So we keep a bad bar around (keep it marked) for light prying in the tree. The slot at the end is big enough for a small 'biner, so you can hang it after it is sent up for series of cuts. Fits right into that pry hole, or any other kerf nicely.

P.S. Doing this reverse stump cut, is my way of ending up with the final cut very brief, perhaps with smaller, easier to control, cheaper chained saw, and in a position that stump doesn't pinch the saw at all. For, it is not under the weight of the stump, but beside it when the cut is finished!

Putting the humboldt slide on face of a drop gives a pivot to allow some of the wieght of the load to leverage up the weight u r trying to tip into its face. When on this pivot totally, friction contact area of piece is reduced allowing it to slide easier. Pushing up at opposite corner with leg power is max. positioning and lever-age, push with bar some and or have groundies pulling line that comes over the top and back to that corner. It will slide easier once tilted and friction is broke between faces(load and stump). Salami cuts are very nice, get better control with this though when needed, perhaps with less cutting, depending on slope of salami. Easier to pitch out, suddenly from cocked position on pivot, or slide down face, to stay closer to tree for me i think.
 
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