How do you mark your chainsaws ?? ie stolen saws.

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kf6ivi

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I was out cleaning my saws from usage and had a thought about marking my saw with some type of marker. How and where do you mark your saws? I marked on the cylinder top with a “Sharpie” and in the top cover. I had thought about engraving the cylinder but stopped due to possibility of heat fractures along the engraving. I think with this it will help to prove the saw was mine if my saw tries to take a walk. Do you have any other ideas??

Thanks Ethan
 
I don't know about everywhere, but here in Mn where I live, anyone that wants to can go to the sherrif or local PD, get a registration number, and engrave it on just about everything you own. You also get "operation ID" stickers to put up, alerting thieves that it would be a waste of time to steal your stuff...too hard to get rid of.

My neighbors lost some video equipment a couple of years ago, and eventually got it back; turned up as part of the stuff confiscated from an operation in Chicago. There were supposedly two buildings full of stolen merchandise with various obvious ID schemes on them, and as such were very useful in convicting a number of people with various crimes. Apparently the criminals had left the stuff in storage because they couldn't get rid of it.

That said, I'd probably engrave the number in several places on a chain saw. There are a large number of chainsaws showing up in parts on Ebay lately; I have to wonder if there aren't chainsw chop-shops too!
 
Just use the serial number and photograph the saw.

Most don't know this, but on pro Stihl's the serial number is in a second place - on the INSIDE of the crankcase lips on the clutch side. If the original number is filed off, all you have to do is completely disassemble the saw to show the second set of numbers.... hmmm...
 
You can carve some word or name somewhere on the secrete place of saw;)
 
Some day the prices and size of these "low-jack" devices will let you trak and find one even if you miss-place it.

Now that would be a nice product. Put something like that in the saw and you can justify a warrantee easilly.
 
Engraving your Driver's Lic number, preferably in an obvious place is also a good id method. Any cop can locate the owner name/address in a few minutes. It is also a big deterrant from pawn shops accepting things. I don't see how putting id tags, numbers, names, etc. in hard to find spots is much help in recovering them. IDing them -after- they have been found yes.

Harry K
 
If your marking them because you think some people on your crew or the crew your working with is going to take them, then putting your own secret mark is fine. If your putting a "secret" mark on them to help recover them if they are stolen, don't bother, that won't work.

Having been a cop for over 20 years, I can tell you that the only way to ever recover your merchandise is to record the Make, Model and Serial #. Without that we can't enter it into the pawn systems, or any other police database. We may recover it, but your secret mark will mean nothing. Operation ID numbers can help you recover items as they are in a national database, but any other marks are only for the guys your working with taking your gear.

Tom
 
27 years ago i was wondering the same thing. i didn't want to loose my prize saw. So i unbolted the round sheetmetal Echo nameplate from the side of my Echo CS-60s and with a nail scribed my social security number and my name in there. About 3 months later my saw got ripped off, i reported it stolen with the serial number. About a month later the PD called me and wanted me to ID my saw, i said you have the SN, but that wasn't good enough. So i grabbed a little screwdriver and headed downtown. i unbolted the cover an my name was there. So i got it back. Now 25 years later i am looking for the saw again after it was sold by me and my new wife 22 years ago. i went into a saw shop looking for a muffler and the guy says he has a 60s sitting on the shelf for parts. I looked at it and asked for a screwdriver, alas it was my saw for the second time. He gave it to me for free. So now i have a whole fleet of them...Bob
 
Thanks for all the ideas.
Tomorrow I will buy some lime green, and purple paint and have some fun painting the saws. But on the serious side, I have the bills of sell for the saw that I bought new expect an echo 280 that I bought about 20 years ago. I have a list of make model and serial numbers of all my saws (bought new or used) in a safe place. I marked the all my saws with my name and phone number because my cousin owns the local husky shop and he will call me if they make into his shop. The nice thing about small towns is a lot of people know each other and they will call if the saws stay local. It they end up on ebay they are gone forever.

Thanks for your time Ethan
 
thompson1600 said:
If your marking them because you think some people on your crew or the crew your working with is going to take them, then putting your own secret mark is fine. If your putting a "secret" mark on them to help recover them if they are stolen, don't bother, that won't work.

Having been a cop for over 20 years, I can tell you that the only way to ever recover your merchandise is to record the Make, Model and Serial #. Without that we can't enter it into the pawn systems, or any other police database. We may recover it, but your secret mark will mean nothing. Operation ID numbers can help you recover items as they are in a national database, but any other marks are only for the guys your working with taking your gear.

Tom

Well...not quite. I don't know about the pawn shop registry but do know that you can enter items into the national (NCIC) and most state stolen registries with an OAN (Owner Applied Number).

OANs well chosen (driver Lic including the state) are good as it is instant (almost) id of ownership where as a serial and brand tells nothing of owership.

Harry K
 
Most police departments will enter a mark you put on the saw in a police report and it will stay with that agency. The National registries (NCIC) use make, model and serial # for identification of stolen items. The rest is fine if the reporting agency has more information, the more info you have the better. But for the cop on the street stopping a suspected thief, burglar, etc, he is going to run the items make, model and serial # to determine if it is stolen to recover. When we do search warrants on suspected thiefs, burglars houses, that's what we run, make, model and serial #. If we see an operation ID number we will run that also. For police to "take" an item from a suspected thief/burglar we have to have proof that it's stolen. Just marking an item doesn't prove that. The computer (NCIC) has to have the make, model and serial # entered as a stolen item for us to "recover" the item. If you put an Owner Applied Number (OAN) hidden on the item, it may not be found by the police during a stop/warrant. Most officers are trained to run the make, model and serial number through NCIC for a hit verification of stolen.

As for proof of ownership, that's a different story. If someone calls in a stolen chainsaw, it is presumed that they are telling the truth. If the item is recovered and the current "owner" of the item disputes that, then it's a whole different story. Maybe the original reporter is a swindler or fraud person. Proof of ownership is different and a drivers license number on the item does not prove ownership. This is where you will need your receipt with serial number on it, to prove ownership. The person with the drivers license number on the item may have stolen it and just put their DL number on it. No proof with that.

Most Pawn Systems are local, to stop the local thief from continually pawning items, or tracking people who do lots of pawning of specific type items. All licensed pawn shops (at least here in the Twin Cities) are required to enter make, model and serial number of items brought into their stores for pawning.

Problem with the internet and ebay today, is that many states do things differently. They have different computer databases, but they don't talk well with each other. The one main system I've seen used all over the US is NCIC which mainly uses Make, Model and Serial #.

Drivers license numbers don't always work, had people try that. If you move and don't notify DMV of your new address, or move out of state, they can be useless. The only time I've seen "markings" make a difference in a recovery was in jewelry, where the stone had gone to a jeweler and had a flaw map drawn out. These were some pretty valuable jewels though, to justify the cost.

To me, your best bet is to use make, model, model serial and keep receipts. If you choose to put a mark on the saw, great, for ID purposes once it is recovered. But to help recovery, keep the make, model and serial number along with a receipt.

Tom
 
Last edited:
thompson1600 said:
Most police departments will enter a mark you put on the saw in a police report and it will stay with that agency. The National registries (NCIC) use make, model and serial # for identification of stolen items. The rest is fine if the reporting agency has more information, the more info you have the better. But for the cop on the street stopping a suspected thief, burglar, etc, he is going to run the items make, model and serial # to determine if it is stolen to recover. When we do search warrants on suspected thiefs, burglars houses, that's what we run, make, model and serial #. If we see an operation ID number we will run that also. For police to "take" an item from a suspected thief/burglar we have to have proof that it's stolen. Just marking an item doesn't prove that. The computer (NCIC) has to have the make, model and serial # entered as a stolen item for us to "recover" the item. If you put an Owner Applied Number (OAN) hidden on the item, it may not be found by the police during a stop/warrant. Most officers are trained to run the make, model and serial number through NCIC for a hit verification of stolen.

As for proof of ownership, that's a different story. If someone calls in a stolen chainsaw, it is presumed that they are telling the truth. If the item is recovered and the current "owner" of the item disputes that, then it's a whole different story. Maybe the original reporter is a swindler or fraud person. Proof of ownership is different and a drivers license number on the item does not prove ownership. This is where you will need your receipt with serial number on it, to prove ownership. The person with the drivers license number on the item may have stolen it and just put their DL number on it. No proof with that.

Most Pawn Systems are local, to stop the local thief from continually pawning items, or tracking people who do lots of pawning of specific type items. All licensed pawn shops (at least here in the Twin Cities) are required to enter make, model and serial number of items brought into their stores for pawning.

Problem with the internet and ebay today, is that many states do things differently. They have different computer databases, but they don't talk well with each other. The one main system I've seen used all over the US is NCIC which mainly uses Make, Model and Serial #.

Drivers license numbers don't always work, had people try that. If you move and don't notify DMV of your new address, or move out of state, they can be useless. The only time I've seen "markings" make a difference in a recovery was in jewelry, where the stone had gone to a jeweler and had a flaw map drawn out. These were some pretty valuable jewels though, to justify the cost.

To me, your best bet is to use make, model, model serial and keep receipts. If you choose to put a mark on the saw, great, for ID purposes once it is recovered. But to help recovery, keep the make, model and serial number along with a receipt.

Tom

I worked dispatch and record entries for 16 years. NCIC (and state systems) only requires two identifies, not three. OAN is acceptable. If a person uses an OAN it should be in a prominent spot. It is also one way to enter a stolen item that would not otherwise be acceptable due to not having a serial number. You are correct that make/serial are best as that is the most likely to be run. I also made the point that putting markings in a hidden spot does absolutely nothing to aid recovery, only ID after recovery.

I don't follow about the DL number. They don't disappear from state data bases for years after they go inactive. The period does vary by state however and I am not even sure how long they stay in my state (Wa). As for it being "proof' of ownership - no, no more so than providing the recovering cop with the make serial number proves it is his without the reciept. It does provide a fast starting point for the investigation though.

We seem to be a cross purposes here. I recomment the DL for quick owner ID but want make/serial for entries - OAN only if one of the others is not available.

Harry K
 

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