I'll be pulling with a Port-A-Winch. If necessary I can use an 8,000 lb. winch.
Fireaxeman: You mentioned "TIP" in your post; Does that mean "tie-in-point"?
Also you said that I might not have to tie in quite so high in order to get the tree to come over. Discuss this a little further, please.
Most of the trees lean...a little to a moderate amount. I want to direct their fall to avoid damaging the other trees.
On most trees, there are no limbs for 50'-60'.
Thanks for your replies!
Yessir. "TIP" is "Tie In Point". "... might not have to tie in quite so high" just depends on your pulling equipment power and speed relative to the size and center of gravity of the tree.
For instance, I often use a Griphoist. It pulls a ton and a half on a single part line, but it is very slow. Because of the angles, if I tie it in very high I cant work the Griphoist fast enough to keep up with the top of the tree as the Faller brings it over. The lower I tie it in, the more easily I can keep up with the Faller (the better I can keep the slack out).
But, higher is more leverage and therfor more power. So, it is a compromise of speed for power. The faster and more powerful your winch is the less critical the height of your tie in point.
Like gwiley said, many times 20 feet is high enough, if you are not trying to overcome a lot of lean (adverse "COG", Center of Gravity) on a big tree, and the lower the TIP the faster the speed, for keeping the slack out as the tree falls.
One caution on all this. If you are pulling directly against a bad leaner, at some point you have to worry about tieing in so low that you pull the leaner off the stump before the top commits to the direction you want it to go. If I am pulling directly adverse to a heavy leaner I rarely tie in below 2/3 the height of the tree. Then, I just cut slowly, cut a little pull a little, so I dont get ahead of my Griphoist operator.