How to start a saw.

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Banshee

Banshee

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Every now and then I get a saw that's going to be hard headed and not start.
How do you start a saw when it does this?
Let's say I put the choke on pull it until it burbs then take the choke off and pull it until it start's.
What do I do if I pull it with the choke on and it never burbs? First then I check is to make sure I'm getting a spark and fuel and it's okay then what?

While we're on the subject how do you drop start?

Thanks.
 
echoman8

echoman8

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west Texas
Start it

Every now and then I get a saw that's going to be hard headed and not start.
How do you start a saw when it does this?
Let's say I put the choke on pull it until it burbs then take the choke off and pull it until it start's.
What do I do if I pull it with the choke on and it never burbs? First then I check is to make sure I'm getting a spark and fuel and it's okay then what?

While we're on the subject how do you drop start?

Thanks.

Hi,

I take the little yellow cap covering my 2 gallon 2cycle gas can spout and pour some 2 cycle into it. I use this to prime. The motor should at least fire and run a little if this is poured into the spark plug hole.

If primed through the carb hole (ventura), it should start and run unless the engine is badly damaged.

Now if it doesn't start and I know I have fire, I remove the muffler and inspect the engine paying close attention to the ports and the lower end of the cylinder. The lower end must be good to draw the fuel from the carb when (n the upstroke) it creates a vacuum in the crankcase.

Good luck,
echoman
 
litefoot

litefoot

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The alternative is that you've missed the initial "pop" or "burp" and you've flooded it. So now you need to take the choke off, squeeze the throttle wide open and pull until it starts.
 
Justsaws

Justsaws

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Drop start.

Standing upright with saw held firmly in one hand and starter handle in the other. The saw is usually about waist level.

The hand that is holding the saw is used to push the saw down while the other hand is pulling the starter handle up.

Good snap pull overs and rapid pulls are the natural result. Bar in crotch, leg, and/or face is the undesired result.
 
Octane

Octane

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Drop start.
Good snap pull overs and rapid pulls are the natural result. Bar in crotch, leg, and/or face is the undesired result.
No kidding. My brother and my neibor both always drop-start their saws and it makes me a little nervous. I have a feeling that its only a matter of time before Im driving one of them to the emergency room.
 
Wood Doctor
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No kidding. My brother and my neighbor both always drop-start their saws and it makes me a little nervous. I have a feeling that its only a matter of time before I'm driving one of them to the emergency room.
+1! Whenever one of my buddies does this, it drives me nuts. Then the other day he complained to me that the pull cord snagged inside the housing and he had to take the saw apart and rewind it.

I tried to explain and showed him how to start it properly, but he won't listen. Next time he used the saw, he drop started it again. :buttkick:
 
Octane

Octane

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I save drop starting for when the saw's hot and ready. Cold starts, it's boot-in-the-handle technique.

+1! Whenever one of my buddies does this, it drives me nuts. Then the other day he complained to me that the pull cord snagged inside the housing and he had to take the saw apart and rewind it.

I tried to explain and showed him how to start it properly, but he won't listen. Next time he used the saw, he drop started it again. :buttkick:

Amen to that. I always start my saw by holding the rear handle between my knees, holding the top handle with my right hand and pulling the rope with my left.
My brother has tried a few times to get me to drop-start it, but I wont do it.
 
Last edited:
Erick

Erick

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You should never drop start a saw...

Gary

:agree2:

I always start everything no matter what size with the rear handle between the thighs. It's a lot safer than drop starting just as fast (or faster on multiple pulls) and it keeps the saw under control at all times. Once you start doing it that way you'll never use any other way, it's just second nature and I don't even think about it. :cheers:
 
woodyman

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I have always started every saw I have ever owned this way-DROP START:chainsaw: And if I ever flood a saw(in the woods)I take the plug out,put it in the spark plug boot,set it over the spark plug cylinder hole and with the switch on pull it over.If I am at home I pull the plug,pull it over a few times and put a new plug in.I also do alot of blimping with my saws.:chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw:
 
HARRY BARKER

HARRY BARKER

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I have always started every saw I have ever owned this way-DROP START:chainsaw: And if I ever flood a saw(in the woods)I take the plug out,put it in the spark plug boot,set it over the spark plug cylinder hole and with the switch on pull it over.If I am at home I pull the plug,pull it over a few times and put a new plug in.I also do alot of blimping with my saws.:chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw:


"blimping"??
 
Mountainman

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On anything with a 25" bar or less, I hold the saw by the rear handle, grab the starter handle with my left hand, and drop start it in that matter. That's just the way I was taught many moons ago, and I have never cut myself as a result. For bar lengths over 25", I generally find a piece of wood to rest the bar tip on, and then follow the same technique. Again, that's just the way I was taught. With the old 070s we used to run, I would usually start the saw on the ground, with the compression release open. Without a comp release, those saws were almost impossible to start.

If you're more comfortable starting a saw on the ground, so be it. For an inexperienced user, that is of course the only way that I would consider.
 
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