How to store chainsaws so they work after long term storage.

[False]

I have too many saws. I got good deals on them. I have them all in good condition, tuned and working well. I know I will not be using half of them for a while.

Instead of just keeping them going can I run fogging oil or something everywhere and just sit them and expect them to run again when I want?

Whats the best prep?

 

[Ridgehiker]

I use canned husqvarna fuel for winter storage, I dump my mixed stuff out and fill it to the top with the canned stuff and run them for 5 or so minutes to get the carb and fuel lines flushed out, than I put them in my basement until spring when I'm cutting firewood again, been doing this for a few years now and havent had any fuel related problems at all

 

[False]

I use canned husqvarna fuel for winter storage, I dump my mixed stuff out and fill it to the top with the canned stuff and run them for 5 or so minutes to get the carb and fuel lines flushed out, than I put them in my basement until spring when I'm cutting firewood again, been doing this for a few years now and havent had any fuel related problems at all

I was thinking something along these lines. What about do what you suggest, then dump the fuel, then put in a few bottles of premix oil (just the oil) in the tank then smash the primer bulb several times to get circulation. Pull the spark plug and hose with fogging oil?

These are Dolkitas with primer bulbs and I want to keep them all for parts and I love them.

 

[Ridgehiker]

I wouldn't dump straight mix oil into it, I use premixed canned fuel, they say it has a 3+ year shelf life, I dont fog the cylinder i think the residule oil will stick around for a few months.

only reason I dump my mixed fuel out is amsoil dominator does not have any stabilizer. canned fuel has a longer than pump fuel shelf life.

 

[False]

I have a saw I only ran TruFuel in and I sat it in a shed over a summer (probably 5 months) and it gummed up decently. It didn't require a rebuild carb but I took it off and put carb cleaner in it. I think summer heat will just evap anything into the heavier components no matter the quality of the stabilizers or lack of ethanol.


I don't KNOW this though so I was wondering what a good move would be.

 

[Ridgehiker]

I've never used Tru fuel, my saws sit from mid November untill about mid Feburary in my basement which stays about 60-65 degrees all winter, before I had autotune saws I would just burn all the fuel out of them until they wouldn't even pop with the choke on, I've always only used non ethanol fuel in any saw I've ever owned and they only sit for a few months before I'm cutting more firewood

 

[buzz sawyer]

I start mine, then shut off and dump any fuel, then restart and idle until empty. If you wanted a little oil coating, close the choke and crank it over a few times. The fuel you draw in will evaporate and leave the oil behind. I use REC90 - non ethanol.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

...I dont fog the cylinder i think the residule oil will stick around for a few months.

I have pulled engines apart that hadn't run in 30 years and the internals were still coated in oil.

 

[sean donato]

We've been over this a numerous times, long term storage is dependant on your version of long term... using a stable fuel, and fogging is about as good as its going to get, keeping equipment in a climate controlled environment is equally as important. (If not always practical.) 2 stroke oils don't contain the anit-corrosion additives in enough volume for long term storage, add in no manufacturer will say its ok not to periodically run an engine for a mix of very valid reasons. I'd personally not go more then a year without running. It's not hard to make time to fire up a saw and let it run for a while and keep it stored with canned fuel.

 

[False]

We've been over this a numerous times, long term storage is dependant on your version of long term... using a stable fuel, and fogging is about as good as its going to get, keeping equipment in a climate controlled environment is equally as important. (If not always practical.) 2 stroke oils don't contain the anit-corrosion additives in enough volume for long term storage, add in no manufacturer will say its ok not to periodically run an engine for a mix of very valid reasons. I'd personally not go more then a year without running. It's not hard to make time to fire up a saw and let it run for a while and keep it stored with canned fuel.

All of your points make perfect sense and I agree on definition of terms being an issue.

In the past the problem was proximity as I use my says on a property away from where I live and I stored them there.

I guess my question is what is the nuclear option? Someone hands you a saw they haven't run in years, what would be your perfect procedure they did before storing it.

I think you basically nailed it on climate control etc.

 

[LuDookie]

Flushed with E-free fuel, run empty, few drops of Seafoam on top the piston, tablespoon in the tank, and if possible store in climate controlled environment.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

I guess my question is what is the nuclear option?

Alkylate fuel?

 

[James Sawyer]

I'm no expert but I have lots of opinions...lol! I would run the fuel out on a warmup saw, dump the remaining fuel out. Close the choke, clean your saw, blow all the sawdust off (recoil, carburetor air filter). Clean the grim etc. remove the bar and clean the rail, lube the nose sprocket and the clutch bearing, check the drive sprocket wear. Lightly coat the saw with a silicon spray (it won't hurt the plastic and its adds UV protection). Check the saw over for loose or missing fasteners and the start rope wear. Sharpen your chain, flip the bar, check the wear on plastic chain guard parts and the steel plate and replace if needed. Assemble the chain and bar...spray it with a motorcycle chain wax type lube and put a plastic bar guard on. I suggest you rotate the piston until it blocks the exhaust port. Or better yet place a piece of rubber between the muffler and the cylinder if you're worried. Store you saw off the ground and in a dry place. I think your saw would store extremely long term; this is basically what I hope most people do at the end of their season minus the rubber between the muffler and the cylinder.

The next time you want use it you just have put oil and fresh fuel in and go! As long as the seal don't dry out, the fuel line, diaphragm and impulse line holds up your good. I have some old saw Mac 10-10, 034 & 038 and haven't had any rubber issue yet...seems to work for me. I ran that mac 10-10 this year... boy make you appreciate the newer saws...lol. Whatever you do, parts availability, the rubber and the carburetor are going to be your problem. You're not going to have crank bearing issues.

 

[sean donato]

All of your points make perfect sense and I agree on definition of terms being an issue.

In the past the problem was proximity as I use my says on a property away from where I live and I stored them there.

I guess my question is what is the nuclear option? Someone hands you a saw they haven't run in years, what would be your perfect procedure they did before storing it.

I think you basically nailed it on climate control etc.

If we're going years, it's anyone's guess if it will run, but my basic procedure would remain unchanged. Clean the saw up, (or whatever it is.) Run on canned gas to flush out and pump gas, fog till it dies. Dump fuel. Dump oil. Pray nothing happens to it while in storage. I guess ideally keep it in a box or something. All my saws and most o.p.e. are stored in climate controlled environment, not in sunlight so I don't worry too much about much else.
Save a few antique/collectable saws, all mine get ran pretty regularly. The old junk, gets as described above.

 

[stihltech]

One of the worst things that can be done to a saw is let it sit for a long time. My theory is if it ain't in the saw, it can't go bad.

 

[AlotL1keVegas]

I just drain the gas out of the fuel tank. Then I start up the machine, and run it til it dies out. I have done it this way for years.

 

[OM617YOTA]

I just drain the gas out of the fuel tank. Then I start up the machine, and run it til it dies out. I have done it this way for years.

That's what I did, before E0 or canned premix was available.

 

[av8or3]

I do two methods. I have 5 saws that are kept fully fueled, even though they are only occasionally used. When it’s gets to bugging me I’ll dump them, refuel them and then start em up. When I put a saw up for display, done with running, I’ll dump it out while warm, then run it dry. I’ll put it up with the cap loose to help it dry out.

 

[firekindler]

I've had good success with the following method. Drain the fuel tank. Start the saw and run it until it dies. Alternating choke closed, then opened, keep starting the saw until it won't start anymore, to drain the carb as much as possible of even fumes. Then remove the spark plug and pour a few drops of mix oil in the cylinder. Pull the starter cord a few times to coat the piston and cylinder with the oil. Leave the piston in the top dead center position. Replace the plug and you're good to go. I've had saws sit for four or five years, then start on the third or fourth pull.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Run the canned fuel at the end of your “season” running equipment. I use VP premix for equipment I run occasionally and for storage purposes. Never had a problem even after several months. Yes it’s expensive but peace of mind is worth something as well. I know my equipment will start and run as it did before storage running the pre mixed alkylate fuel.