I'm no expert but I have lots of opinions...lol! I would run the fuel out on a warmup saw, dump the remaining fuel out. Close the choke, clean your saw, blow all the sawdust off (recoil, carburetor air filter). Clean the grim etc. remove the bar and clean the rail, lube the nose sprocket and the clutch bearing, check the drive sprocket wear. Lightly coat the saw with a silicon spray (it won't hurt the plastic and its adds UV protection). Check the saw over for loose or missing fasteners and the start rope wear. Sharpen your chain, flip the bar, check the wear on plastic chain guard parts and the steel plate and replace if needed. Assemble the chain and bar...spray it with a motorcycle chain wax type lube and put a plastic bar guard on. I suggest you rotate the piston until it blocks the exhaust port. Or better yet place a piece of rubber between the muffler and the cylinder if you're worried. Store you saw off the ground and in a dry place. I think your saw would store extremely long term; this is basically what I hope most people do at the end of their season minus the rubber between the muffler and the cylinder.
The next time you want use it you just have put oil and fresh fuel in and go! As long as the seal don't dry out, the fuel line, diaphragm and impulse line holds up your good. I have some old saw Mac 10-10, 034 & 038 and haven't had any rubber issue yet...seems to work for me. I ran that mac 10-10 this year... boy make you appreciate the newer saws...lol. Whatever you do, parts availability, the rubber and the carburetor are going to be your problem. You're not going to have crank bearing issues.