Huskee Splitter hydro leak

[Blazer]

I've got a Huskee 22 Ton splitter that has a slow drip leak of hydro fluid. It seems to be leaking around the top of the hydro pump, where it bolts to the frame ( 4 bolts ) I tightened the bolts, which helped, but I still have a bit of leak. I assume there is a gasket between the pump and the frame ? Would appreciate any advice on fixing this. Thanks !

 

[Nosmo]

It is a good idea posting this problem because someone on site may have had the same exact problem.

Another place you can check is with Speeco's site and ask for help with the problem too.

Let us know when you get a answer that fixes the leak.

Nosmo

 

[Thickskin]

I've got a Huskee 22 Ton splitter that has a slow drip leak of hydro fluid. It seems to be leaking around the top of the hydro pump, where it bolts to the frame ( 4 bolts ) I tightened the bolts, which helped, but I still have a bit of leak. I assume there is a gasket between the pump and the frame ? Would appreciate any advice on fixing this. Thanks !

I think the pumps just have a seal around the shaft of the pump.

 

[leon]

log splitter

The shaft lip seal is going bad on you and eventually it will totally fail and spill oil whil it is under pressure as the seal is weakened now.

They fail for many reasons including reuse of used pump shafts, broken seal springs-the spring that holds the seal lip against the pump shaft.

Pump and hydraulic motor manufacturers are at fault for todays seal problems as most if not all of them do not have what is referred to as a case drain to relieve system pressure back to tank to eliminate the systems maximum regulated pressure against the oil seal which is not good.

The oil pressure against the pump shaft is only supposed to be fifteen PSI at all times for a couple of reasons, the case drain helps to keep the pump seal clean by flushing the oil by the seal and through the pump body neck to the case drain, flush any debris or metal fragments to the tank and not against the seal lips, and help keep the bearings supporting the pump lubricated and flushed clean.

When it fails it will fail fast with a lot of oil everywhere if you keep running it as it is.


leon

 

[Missel]

I've got a Huskee 22 Ton splitter that has a slow drip leak of hydro fluid. It seems to be leaking around the top of the hydro pump, where it bolts to the frame ( 4 bolts ) I tightened the bolts, which helped, but I still have a bit of leak. I assume there is a gasket between the pump and the frame ? Would appreciate any advice on fixing this. Thanks !

I HAD the same problem and yes the lip seals around the hydro pump shaft are shot. When I inspected the pump I noticed there was only one lip seal and no snap rings! Turns out it is designed to have two seals and two rings. I cleaned the shaft with very fine sand paper and replaced the lip seals and internal snap rings and all is good. Well not all, I now have an engine oil leak somewhere

 

[Wow]

I HAD the same problem and yes the lip seals around the hydro pump shaft are shot. When I inspected the pump I noticed there was only one lip seal and no snap rings! Turns out it is designed to have two seals and two rings. I cleaned the shaft with very fine sand paper and replaced the lip seals and internal snap rings and all is good. Well not all, I now have an engine oil leak somewhere

Mine leaks at the push rod. Going down it's fine. On return fluid flows down the rod and onto the wood. I wonder if the cylinder is a cheapo and maybe it should be replaced with a better cylinder?

 

[GVS]

log splitter

The shaft lip seal is going bad on you and eventually it will totally fail and spill oil whil it is under pressure as the seal is weakened now.

They fail for many reasons including reuse of used pump shafts, broken seal springs-the spring that holds the seal lip against the pump shaft.

Pump and hydraulic motor manufacturers are at fault for todays seal problems as most if not all of them do not have what is referred to as a case drain to relieve system pressure back to tank to eliminate the systems maximum regulated pressure against the oil seal which is not good.

The oil pressure against the pump shaft is only supposed to be fifteen PSI at all times for a couple of reasons, the case drain helps to keep the pump seal clean by flushing the oil by the seal and through the pump body neck to the case drain, flush any debris or metal fragments to the tank and not against the seal lips, and help keep the bearings supporting the pump lubricated and flushed clean.

When it fails it will fail fast with a lot of oil everywhere if you keep running it as it is.
Eliminating the case drain feature saved money but not the pump!

leon

 

[Wow]

My pump is not leaking. My cylinder leaks when the plunger returns. The cylinder is a Welded 4 by 24 with a 1.75 rod ( I think). Is there a way I can simply change the system to work like you describe ?.
Would I need a different valve or do I simply re-plumb something or is it a major rebuild? Is it a hassle to replace the lip seal on the rod? I have no knowledge of this stuff. Trying to learn.
Thanks.

 

[GVS]

Let's try this again.Sometimes I post a reply and it never shows up.Doing away with the case drain saves money in the short term but sooner or later the pump is going to fail and that will cost somebody.The best hyd. systems not only have a case drain but a high micron filter to catch any debris in the shaft cavity on its way back to the hyd. tank.This on top of pressure and return filters.

 

[Wow]

Let's try this again.Sometimes I post a reply and it never shows up.Doing away with the case drain saves money in the short term but sooner or later the pump is going to fail and that will cost somebody.The best hyd. systems not only have a case drain but a high micron filter to catch any debris in the shaft cavity on its way back to the hyd. tank.This on top of pressure and return filters.

Thanks. Makes me wish I knew how to install a Case Drain and more filters on mine.

 

[kevin j]

Gear pumps won’t have a case drain. The side plate leakage just goes back to the inlet side of the gears, and the leakage past the end bearings has a drilled port taking it to the suction port of the main casting. If that port on the shaft end is blocked (very unusual) or not there (more unusual, but has happened) the pressure build up can blow the shaft seal.

Variable pumps, piston or vane, usually need a case drain as the leakage goes into the case. Some, but pretty rare, port the case to the inlet like the gear pumps do, but that is rare and risky. Too much case back pressure against the pistons can cause cavitation or lifting of the pistons, Expensive quickly.

I would rarely use a case drain filter on piston pump because of risk of too much back pressure. just a couple psi can damage pistons. If needed, it has to be grossly oversized, or fairly coarse (maybe 50 or 100 micron). Same story with suction strainers on piston pumps. Has to be a very thought through decison as they are risky.

Return filters are IMO essential even on a splitter. Yes, there are the ‘ran 40 years on used motor oil and no filters’ stories. I won’t even touch that topic.

 

[Wow]

Gear pumps won’t have a case drain. The side plate leakage just goes back to the inlet side of the gears, and the leakage past the end bearings has a drilled port taking it to the suction port of the main casting. If that port on the shaft end is blocked (very unusual) or not there (more unusual, but has happened) the pressure build up can blow the shaft seal.

Variable pumps, piston or vane, usually need a case drain as the leakage goes into the case. Some, but pretty rare, port the case to the inlet like the gear pumps do, but that is rare and risky. Too much case back pressure against the pistons can cause cavitation or lifting of the pistons, Expensive quickly.

I would rarely use a case drain filter on piston pump because of risk of too much back pressure. just a couple psi can damage pistons. If needed, it has to be grossly oversized, or fairly coarse (maybe 50 or 100 micron). Same story with suction strainers on piston pumps. Has to be a very thought through decison as they are risky.

Return filters are IMO essential even on a splitter. Yes, there are the ‘ran 40 years on used motor oil and no filters’ stories. I won’t even touch that topic.

So the Rod leak on the cylinder is my only leak. How much trouble is it to put new packing around the rod. Should I put Stop Leak in the reservoir? I think it's called a Gland leak. I've watched a video on YouTube and the cylinder using tie rods looks a lot easier to repack. I'm considering taking my old welded Cylinder off and replacing it with a tie rod type OR carrying it to a shop and pay to have it fixed. This machine has not been used a lot and a friend has the same leak, same place. Maybe this cylinder will be an on going problem. It may be cheaper in the long run to replace it with a more friendly cylinder. What do you think? Thanks

 

[farmer steve]

just to give you an idea on cost/prices,etc. only ever bought a pump from them but service was good. http://www.daltonhydraulic.com/log-splitter-parts?p=1 a good tractor repair shop may be able to fix your old cylinder.

 

[Wow]

just to give you an idea on cost/prices,etc. only ever bought a pump from them but service was good. http://www.daltonhydraulic.com/log-splitter-parts?p=1 a good tractor repair shop may be able to fix your old cylinder.

Thanks. I used the splitter a while today. The Stop Leak seems to have slowed it down some. Maybe I can finish this tree. On another subject Black Pepper totally stopped a radiator leak on my Tractor. That's been about a year ago and it's cooling and not leaking. Live and learn. Thanks

 

[kevin j]

Stop leaks basically just chemically react with the seal caused it to swell and put more pressure but they’re pretty short-term fix. Don’t use pepper or anything radiator sealant or anything containing particles as those particles are 100 times bigger than what you’re trying to filter out. the cylinder shouldn’t be that bad. the gland end should just unscrew. if the rod end is welded on the rod then you have to take the piston off with a large nut. you might have to take it to the store and have that done but it’s not that big of a deal it’s far cheaper than buying a new cylinder. Welded cylinders are actually much stronger than tie rod cylinders at least the tie rod types with the cast ends in the ag and consumer market.