Husky 136 slow death

[hot air]

I bought 2nd hand a non running 136 at a reasonable price or I thought I did. With help from a good friend and putting in fresh fuel and minor adjustments it runs cuts good but after 5-10 minutes (est) of use it gradually loses RPM'S. Then stalls out. I'm not sure if this is fuel related. Could there be other possibilities that too? I have had that happen on old farm tractors where the coil would get warm and fail. Could that be happening with a chainsaw as well?

I don't remember but I think that is what the previous owner said as well.

 

[Prince Humperdink]

This can be caused by low compression from scored cylinder,piston/rings. It can also be from a bad coil?

 

[scottr]

Hello hot air , you could remove the muffler to inspect the piston , ring and cylinder .

 

[hot air]

Prince,
What should the compression be?

Scottr,
I will take the muffler off and check for scoring

 

[Prince Humperdink]

Typically anything under 100 psi is very low on most saws. As scottr stated, that's the best way to check piston on exhaust side,which is usually the one that goes bad. To check intake side you'll need to remove the carb .

 

[hot air]

Guys, The compression test came out to 135-140PSI done twice. The piston had a slight score and to my eyes I think it was fine.

Does this mean the coil would be the next suspect to check? Is there a way to test a coil?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Go somewhere a few miles from home- put the saw down and slowly back away a few paces- run to your truck, hope it fires first turn of the key and drive home like you stole the truck!
Do it now!!!!

The 36, 136, 137 etc are okay when they are new and going good- horrible wee sods when they aint going good or are bought secondhand. People sell them secondhand because they are starting to not run good and shops tell them they are an uneconomic repair.

Coil would be one of my last suspects- air leak being first, around the crank seals and or clamshell floor pan. Then fuel delivery issues. If low compression has been ruled out- people that do not know a whole lot about saws and buy the smaller cheaper versions love to feed them straight or straightish gas!

 

[hot air]

Bob,

I'm not as saw guy and was wanting a smaller saw due to the aging process so guess what I bought. Your're probably right on the 136 but I want to try. I can be stubborn.

In this size range what saw/s would you suggest to me to look at? I'd most liking like to used but could buy new too.

As for the 136 what I experimented with today. When the saw is started cold and then runs for 10-20 miniutes the RPMs start to drop down until it dies. Leave the saw sit for a while. Start it up it runs with normal RPMs but drops down sooner. I'm thinking it didn't get enought time to fully could down to ambient temp. This is repeatable. How would I test for air leaks? I want to learn.

Thanks for your reply.

 

[irhunter]

How would I test for air leaks? I want to learn.

Nice.

Here is how. You will need to either buy or cobble together a vac and pressure tester. If you actually want to fix saws...you will need to do this eventually...might as well do it now.



I think the 36/136 is a totally fine saw to learn on.

Roy

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Yep, to test it for actual truth- you need to buy the tools.
This might cost you more than the saw did- but they don't lie and do not wear out. Handy if you ever need to bleed your brakes as well.
Or you assume the seals and pan are leaking- pull the entire saw to bits and fit new seals and glue the pan on the bottom of the engine, torque the bolts well to hold it in place and put it all back together- see if things have improved.

 

[river of smoak]

sounds like the symptoms of a plugged fuel tank vent . crack the gas cap when this happens and retest

 

[bellarmine]

At the risk of sounding obvious, don't mean to offend but is the gas tank vent working? Could be causing the old vaccuum in the gas tank problem. Does it run with the gas cap off? Just an idea I didn't see mentioned above yet lol.......:^) Cheers!~ Bellarmine

 

[bellarmine]

Guess great minds think alike, good for you River just refreshed the page you beat me by 6 minutes lol! Hope it helps, cheers!~ Bellarmine

 

[hot air]

River and Bellarmine,

Yes I'm going to do that test today.

IRhunter,
Thanks for the video

Bob,
thx for the your interest getting me down the right path. By the way I paid $25USD for the saw, 40 miles on the car, plus a new chain, and possibly a vacuum tester. It's not a cheap saw anymore. Now being 75 I'm having to think about what to do. I'm going to try the gas cap first and see if I can find a tester to borrow if needed. If I had other uses I would be all in with getting a tester.

Thanks to all reply's here.

 

[cookies]

can also be a plug that has broken down internally and once warm it becomes more resistant until its a open circuit

 

[Woolval]

Nice.

Here is how. You will need to either buy or cobble together a vac and pressure tester. If you actually want to fix saws...you will need to do this eventually...might as well do it now.



I think the 36/136 is a totally fine saw to learn on.

Roy

This sounds like it could be Hot Air's problem, the fuel cap isn't venting and it slowly forms a vacuum in the tank and the carb can't draw fuel. To me, running, then slowly dies sounds like a fuel starvation issue. I wonder, if Hot Air loosens the cap then restarts will it do the same, slowly die out?
I've fixed a couple chainsaws, and sometimes they actually run decent! LOL, sometimes...
Good luck, keep us posted.

Seems I'm late to this thinking. But it definitely sounds like a possibility.

 

[sean donato]

Where are you located? I'm sure there's a knowledgeable forum member with the tools that lives close that would be willing to help you out.

 

[hot air]

I haven't tested the gas cap possibility yet but I'm 35 miles west of the Minneapolis MN

 

[sean donato]

Way too far for me to be of any help. Im in PA.

 

[James G]

Try a different gas mix. Many saws have preferences.