First off this is my first post so still getting used to the site 
Anyway here's my problem we have a husky 22 ton log splitter that needs the couplers replaced but I can't figure out how to get them off
Any tips?? Maybe a picture/video guide??
Husky 22 Ton Log Splitter Coupler Replacement
- Thread starter Waystro
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First off this is my first post so still getting used to the site Anyway here's my problem we have a husky 22 ton log splitter that needs the couplers replaced but I can't figure out how to get them off
Any tips?? Maybe a picture/video guide??
Set screws where the keyways are. Pump side looks easy, motor side not so much 
.
.I removed all the set screws it slides up words alittle then stops. I tried prying but didn't want to damaged the pump. The bottom shaft doesn't have a key way like the top does. Who ever replaced them last got the coupler for the bottom that had a key way so it looks like they wedged a piece of metal in there to hold it. I'll get detailed pics later today. This is my first time working on this. Couldn't find anything about replacing these.
Bottom has to have a keyway or the cog would just spin on the shaft. Put a gear puller on the pump, previous installer boogered the end of the shaft, likely with a hammer.
The replacement that you'll need is called a "lovejoy coupler"......... they come in different sizes..
I have an extra for my hydraulic..
I have an extra for my hydraulic..
The coupler consists of three pieces, the motor half, the pump half, and the plastic spider between the two halves.
olympyk_999
Addicted to ArboristSite
Pump has a woodruff key (half moon shaped key)...the couplers are likely getting stuck on the burrs left from the set screws digging into the shaft, as I don't see any peening on the ends of the shafts...
A slide hammer or gear puller will pull them right off, they can be rented for a couple dollars if you don't have one...
Yoopermike
ArboristSite Guru
Looks like that things been ran without the rubber bushing for quite some time.
olympyk_999
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And out of alignment...
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Well, looks like you gotter dun but now it's done in. I agree on the shaft being burred some. Pulley puller will help stop the cursing.
Both Couplers are removed bottom is installed. This way just done by the guys that have done it before. I'll be installing the top coupler. So I insert keeper then slide on coupler. Then bolt pump back on alight it sound about right?
Were you drinking heavily when you wrote this ??
Can't make sense of it..
NSMaple1
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Don't forget to tighten the setscrews.
Fred Wright
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Absolutely. Lovejoy and their imitators do not handle misalignment well. Use a straight edge and shims if necessary, 36o° to align. Also, if one or both shafts are out of round, replace or have them machined and sleeved. The coupling won't last long otherwise.
Once you get it running, inspect the coupling often for signs of wear. The spider is made of plastic; plastic shavings or particles means it's deteriorating.
olympyk_999
Addicted to ArboristSite
I prefer to use chain couplings for these types of applications...they allow for around 2 degrees of misalignment, and last near forever. And they cost about the same as a jaw type coupler (Lovejoy)...
BIG JAKE
Let’s go Brandon!
Thanks for the tip!
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't think I would use a chain coupling on a gas engine. The engine vibes would go right into your pump. I think they're more for smoother motors like electric & hydraulic.
olympyk_999
Addicted to ArboristSite
if your pump is direct mounted to the engine its going to transmit vibration into the pump no mater what...most larger equipment use a solid coupling (spline/keyed shaft) between pump and engine...
when the spider falls apart and the couplings are mashed together like the op's it really doesn't matter.
I use chain couplings because I like durability...they last near forever if the shafts are lined up properly...on my splitter my pump adapter is self centering, the shafts are concentric and parallel within .002", ill likely never have to replace the chain...even if I used a jaw type coupling id have to replace the spider x amount of times over the life of the machine due to the constant pressure the spider sees, and due to dry rot...
guess I just like things that last?
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